bleed valve
#1
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hi to you all
iv got a 93 wrx import and want to fit a bleed valve. how and where do you fit it ? got a rough idea but dont want to fu** it up. also do you take off the old boost sensor ? thanks.
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#2
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My advice would be to forget bleed valves.
Though if you insist, the best place would be on the wastegate actuator pipe. The actuator being mounted on the turbo, easily accessible from the engine bay.
But really... don't do it
Though if you insist, the best place would be on the wastegate actuator pipe. The actuator being mounted on the turbo, easily accessible from the engine bay.
But really... don't do it
#3
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Plenty of people use them to good effect. As long you you do not go crazy playing with the boost setting.. If you are thinking of being a 'boost junkie' then it will cost you lots in repair bills. Anyway...
I have a dawes, it does what it says. The only problem is that every couple of weeks or so it needs cleaning through with carb cleaner, brake cleaner would work well also as they leave no residue. Without cleaning the pin hole in the end becomes partially blocked and boost lowers.
To fit: The Dawes/Bleed Valve (bear in mind that the the Dawes is not quite the same as a Bleed Valve) bypasses the boost control solenoid on the drivers side suspension turret. Remove the top hose and the middle hose from the solenoid and fit these to the new valve, making sure the new valve is the correct way round. Keep the hoses as short as possible. Leave the solenoid electrical connector in place. Adjust the valve to suit. If you go too high with the setting the ECU will cut fuel (AKA Boost Cut). I think the ECU will cut fuel at about 16psi/1.1 bar. You can get around this with a FCD (Fuel Cut Defender) but do remember the warnings already stated above. BOOST WRECKS ENGINES IF SET TOO HIGH without the fuelling to match.
To give you something to go on. My car has an ESL chip so the fuelling is matched to 1.1bar of boost. Without the dawes fitted it was only making 1.0bar boost. With the Dawes I have boost roughly at 1.2 on the gauge. Has run just fine like that for months.
Flame suit on!!
I have a dawes, it does what it says. The only problem is that every couple of weeks or so it needs cleaning through with carb cleaner, brake cleaner would work well also as they leave no residue. Without cleaning the pin hole in the end becomes partially blocked and boost lowers.
To fit: The Dawes/Bleed Valve (bear in mind that the the Dawes is not quite the same as a Bleed Valve) bypasses the boost control solenoid on the drivers side suspension turret. Remove the top hose and the middle hose from the solenoid and fit these to the new valve, making sure the new valve is the correct way round. Keep the hoses as short as possible. Leave the solenoid electrical connector in place. Adjust the valve to suit. If you go too high with the setting the ECU will cut fuel (AKA Boost Cut). I think the ECU will cut fuel at about 16psi/1.1 bar. You can get around this with a FCD (Fuel Cut Defender) but do remember the warnings already stated above. BOOST WRECKS ENGINES IF SET TOO HIGH without the fuelling to match.
To give you something to go on. My car has an ESL chip so the fuelling is matched to 1.1bar of boost. Without the dawes fitted it was only making 1.0bar boost. With the Dawes I have boost roughly at 1.2 on the gauge. Has run just fine like that for months.
Flame suit on!!
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#7
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thanks 4 all the help lads. so buypass the old boost sol but still hav it there and plugd in ? only reason i want a bleed valve is that the boost sol on the car is fu** i think. just clicks non stop all the time. thanks again
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#9
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ANG ON!!? ive got a question? ive got got a 95wrx, same problem as you mate, boost solonoid was knacked! i got a bleed valve, set it at 12psi, an the motors bob on.
ze question iz, if ive got an air fuel ratio meter indicating am in the orange/green at full boost (which is supposed to be good) i take am not firing an ak47 at me pistons so to speak? everythings should be cool??
s
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ze question iz, if ive got an air fuel ratio meter indicating am in the orange/green at full boost (which is supposed to be good) i take am not firing an ak47 at me pistons so to speak? everythings should be cool??
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Last edited by justylover; 24 July 2007 at 08:51 PM.
#12
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ANG ON!!? ive got a question? ive got got a 95wrx, same problem as you mate, boost solonoid was knacked! i got a bleed valve, set it at 12psi, an the motors bob on.
ze question iz, if ive got an air fuel ratio meter indicating am in the orange/green at full boost (which is supposed to be good) i take am not firing an ak47 at me pistons so to speak? everythings should be cool??
s
![Big Grin](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
ze question iz, if ive got an air fuel ratio meter indicating am in the orange/green at full boost (which is supposed to be good) i take am not firing an ak47 at me pistons so to speak? everythings should be cool??
![Suspicious](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/Suspicious.gif)
#14
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what sort ov money we talking 4 a chip ? lookd at my ecu and think it said m8 on the ecu. i dont want loads ov power just a little more. lol bet thats what you all say ha ha. think i might also try new plugs as some people say the eat them.
#15
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U8 i would expect ,chip from PolarPerformance is £195 (seems a lot perhaps) but will increas boost (along with fuelling) and does it safely.
Not too sure why someone says they eat plugs especially on a standard car.
Not too sure why someone says they eat plugs especially on a standard car.
#17
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Fuel-cut on a MY93 is about 1bar, so if you are going to use a bleed valve then set it to 0.9bar to prevent intermitent fuel-cut.
Standard boost on an MY93 is 0.8bar so won't gain much.
It will probabley bring you up to MY95/96 260ps performance, without the benefit of the better fuel/ignition map.
Standard boost on an MY93 is 0.8bar so won't gain much.
It will probabley bring you up to MY95/96 260ps performance, without the benefit of the better fuel/ignition map.
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