Shell preperation
22 August 2007, 01:20 PM
#1
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Shell preperation
I'm building a 380/350 weekend/occasional track day car from a running '95 WRX. I will be adding a cage and wanting to spray the inside once all the sound deadening is out.
To what extent do I need to strip the car? Obviously all seats carpets etc are coming out and the pipes (brake lines and fuel lines?) under the rear seats. I'm not going to dip the car or anything so do I need to do much stripping of the underside etc?
I was thinking when it's stripped inside of seam welding as much as possible... what's the best type for that kind of work, TIG?
The car has a sunroof is that going to be problematic come cage time?
To what extent do I need to strip the car? Obviously all seats carpets etc are coming out and the pipes (brake lines and fuel lines?) under the rear seats. I'm not going to dip the car or anything so do I need to do much stripping of the underside etc?
I was thinking when it's stripped inside of seam welding as much as possible... what's the best type for that kind of work, TIG?
The car has a sunroof is that going to be problematic come cage time?
24 August 2007, 07:07 AM
#4
Sun roof is not a good thing to have on track. If it is steel then weld it in.
Buying a cage: Make sure the cage can pass under the sunroof, many do not (mine would not)
On bbs.22B.com go to Projects section and search for David Wallis.
You will find a superb thread on doing exactly what you are about to approach. It is a big job to do well.
David's Wagon caged/welded shell is for sale incidentally. Well worth considering.
The fuel lines run down the inside of the car's sills and the fact the factory are happy for them to be there I think i would leave them there.
If you want a light car you need to strip it bare.
If you want to keep rust at bay, then leave the underbody sealent there, but you will need to remove an awful lot of under coating and seam sealent for the welding (why DW's shell is a good buy!).
The welding can be tig, but mig is good too.
Do NOT weld ahead of the suspension strut turrets as you will stiffen the crash zones too much and in a big shunt could reallly make things nasty for you/passenger.
Hope that helps a bit.
Graham.
Buying a cage: Make sure the cage can pass under the sunroof, many do not (mine would not)
On bbs.22B.com go to Projects section and search for David Wallis.
You will find a superb thread on doing exactly what you are about to approach. It is a big job to do well.
David's Wagon caged/welded shell is for sale incidentally. Well worth considering.
The fuel lines run down the inside of the car's sills and the fact the factory are happy for them to be there I think i would leave them there.
If you want a light car you need to strip it bare.
If you want to keep rust at bay, then leave the underbody sealent there, but you will need to remove an awful lot of under coating and seam sealent for the welding (why DW's shell is a good buy!).
The welding can be tig, but mig is good too.
Do NOT weld ahead of the suspension strut turrets as you will stiffen the crash zones too much and in a big shunt could reallly make things nasty for you/passenger.
Hope that helps a bit.
Graham.
14 March 2014, 08:02 PM
#5
Sun roof is not a good thing to have on track. If it is steel then weld it in.
Buying a cage: Make sure the cage can pass under the sunroof, many do not (mine would not)
On bbs.22B.com go to Projects section and search for David Wallis.
You will find a superb thread on doing exactly what you are about to approach. It is a big job to do well.
David's Wagon caged/welded shell is for sale incidentally. Well worth considering.
The fuel lines run down the inside of the car's sills and the fact the factory are happy for them to be there I think i would leave them there.
If you want a light car you need to strip it bare.
If you want to keep rust at bay, then leave the underbody sealent there, but you will need to remove an awful lot of under coating and seam sealent for the welding (why DW's shell is a good buy!).
The welding can be tig, but mig is good too.
Do NOT weld ahead of the suspension strut turrets as you will stiffen the crash zones too much and in a big shunt could reallly make things nasty for you/passenger.
Hope that helps a bit.
Graham.
Buying a cage: Make sure the cage can pass under the sunroof, many do not (mine would not)
On bbs.22B.com go to Projects section and search for David Wallis.
You will find a superb thread on doing exactly what you are about to approach. It is a big job to do well.
David's Wagon caged/welded shell is for sale incidentally. Well worth considering.
The fuel lines run down the inside of the car's sills and the fact the factory are happy for them to be there I think i would leave them there.
If you want a light car you need to strip it bare.
If you want to keep rust at bay, then leave the underbody sealent there, but you will need to remove an awful lot of under coating and seam sealent for the welding (why DW's shell is a good buy!).
The welding can be tig, but mig is good too.
Do NOT weld ahead of the suspension strut turrets as you will stiffen the crash zones too much and in a big shunt could reallly make things nasty for you/passenger.
Hope that helps a bit.
Graham.
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