daves_scooby

i have just fitted a used 1 of these and there is no psssssss. it is just the same as a standard 1. and wanted to know if any1 knows what the prob cud be. i had the same prob when i fist put a aforge 1 on my old classic and found that it was the spring needed to be changed so it was set for the correct boost, only thing is i dont want to take the hks appart without knowing if its ok to look or if it wil be somthing else. so what im tring to say is ................. please help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

daves_scooby

any1 !!!!!!!!!!!!!

sl1000

just to check
You didn't connect the output back to the intake?
and is the triangular piece in the output? this makes the Pssst sound.

daves_scooby

??
all i done is remove the standard 1, and put the hks in its place.
the large hose i put a 34mm bung init. and small hose, i connected a smaller hose to it and put that onto the hks and the drove it............... but nothing .

it has come of a sti and my car is a wrx will this make any differance.

woody1980

have you got a pic? so i can see what hoses are going where?

it may be a case that the spring needs adjusting or replacing. depends what type of dump valve it is?

my dump valve came with washers to adjust it. out the box had no washers, so was too loose. i added washers till it only opened when pressure was released and wasnt too tight so boost was staying in and not backfiring. you may need to replace the spring or add washers.

you have got the dump valve from a sti, he may have also done other mods to the car and be runing any kind of boost, like 20psi and you may be on standard running 10psi so the dump valve will be set really tight and your car will never open it.

do not run the car if its not opening as you will damage your turbo and engine, put the standard back in for now.

sl1000

sounds to me you have it plumped in as recirculating.
thus pressured air is fed back to the intake piping.
for the psss effect to work you would need it connected as open air
or the pressured air is let go directly to open air.
if you want maximum effect replace the output pipe on the ssqv with the triangular piece (which is act as a whissle)
and make sure you blank of the return pipe to the intake.
plus expect some pop's and bangs because of the rich mixtures due to false MAF readings when you let go of the throttle.

daves_scooby

is there anybody local to me widnes. also the guy who said my car might not be putting out enought psi, a few people said this, he was running a 370bhp sti and im in a stock wrx, so by that it will neva work on my car will it. lol
oh well if any1 has a sti i have a hks ssqv for sale, thanx guys.

trails

iTrader: (41)

dave, a VTA (vent to atmosphere), BOV will make your car run worse...and sound like bus\lorry air brakes.

boost pressure makes no difference to whether the BOV works, speak to whomever you brought it from and ask him if it was converted to re-circulating. If it has been there will be a hose connector where it would normally dump the air.

daves_scooby

no its just he has put a differant spring in it as he was running over 300bhp. so that is why it dont work on mine.

sl1000

I took this from the HKS SSQV prod sheet:

HKS Super SQV (Sequential Blow Off Valve)
uses a unique sequential valve structure and a
differential pressure control system, which
allows for a broad operating range from low boost
to high boost. Its Pull-Type relief design ensures
stable operation regardless of the amount of
boost pressure. The Super SQV will support new
generations of turbocharged vehicles.

Which means no messing with springs If you use the SSQV.
If have used mine from standard upto 21PSI. and it works fine without any changing of springs.
So or you did something wrong during installation
or it's working fine but installed as re-circulating and you falsly expect a Pssss sound
or previous owner did do something with springs and now it is not working correct anymore. not on his nor yours

btw I agree with trails don't use VTA with MAF based ECU's

woody1980

whats wrong with using vta with MAF?? it works fine. what do you think is better??

having a recirc that spirts huge amounts of stupidly hot air back past your maf everytime you change gear so your maf thinks the air coming in is really hot. your maf is jumping all over the place with hot then cold then hot air coming through.

or having a vta dump so your maf just gets one cold intake all the time?

i have had both and found with a recirc my maf was going crazy with recirc. soon as i put my vta in it was fine. i did buy the quitest vta i could possibly find so it doesnt sound too chavy and makes more of an air realeasing noise rather than a pppssssstt noise.

woody1980

sl1000

have you got anymore info on the HKS SSQV??

i just wondered how it worked with different boost ranges? the mechanical part is still a spring set to a certain tension so wondered how they have made it work for different boost ranges?

if that spring happens to be set so a minimum of say 10psi will release it then a standard scoob may never open it?

sl1000

yep

HKS USA Super SQV

product specification explains how it works

it actually opens due to high vacuum after throttle plate not due to boost. therefore it opens at all boost levels from 0 to >20 psi

exvaux

iTrader: (1)

A recirculating one is better,VTA just upsets the maf and o2 sensor (well it did on my car)

sl1000

woody

think best is to use MAP based ECU with VTA BOV. I started with the PSSTT sound out of the HKS, but got tired of it and have now replaced the triangular piece with a recirc fitting but no tube connected. So it also only makes a very low air release noise now.

problem with the MAF and VTA is the measured air which does not make it to the engine but does result in additional fuel injected. This can create pops/bangs and bad pick up after gear shifts.
But agree with the recirc air backwards through MAF. One more reason to go MAP based (not cheap though)

woody1980

i cant get the file to load. it will download but wont open in adobe???

sl1000

download latest 8.1 adobe reader
the file uses japanese characters. latest reader will auto ask for downloading of jap. plugin

woody1980

never really looked into getting a map sensor. cant be that expensive though. although im not sure if the standard ecu supports any of these readings.

woody1980

adobe does an auto update on start up and said its upto date?

sl1000

standard Ecu can not be used with Map sensor thus needing different Ecu.
This is why it so expensive. I use Autronic.
Must say I don't regret it for a minute.

Try to open the HKS file in the 8.1 reader then it should ask to download plugin.

sl1000

made a screenshot for you

http://members.home.nl/bogink/hks.jpg

woody1980

ahhhh i see how it works now with the different chambers. waits till chamber 1 is full of air which in turn will make chamber 2 open. must sound a bit funny though as it will release different amounts of pressure at different times though. must sound kind of woosshh tsstt woosshh alot lol. pretty cool if it works ok though.

woody1980

i have seen a piggy back ecu that has map sensor added to it but thats £600. none of the newer subarus use map do they? the sensors themselves arent alot to buy though.

sl1000

With the autronic the sensor is inside the ECU.
subaru don't use MAP.
but Honda, GM uses it standard.

it only requires one additional temp sensor within the intake manifold.
cost is due to the ecu not the sensors.

woody1980

yeah just wondered if a new age subaru had the map then you could wait for some poor unfortante person to right theirs off and buy it from them off ebay when they sell all the parts to try and get some money back. but as no subarus have them then thats out the window.

what do you mean the sensor is in the ecu? does it not just have the map sensor in the manifold then a cable leading to the ecu? and the ecu has software or readings and ability to use that info to monitor air/fuel pressure?

sl1000

no sensor is in the ecu and you need to route a vacuum hose to the ECU.
This is with the PnP board Autronic does for the classic Impreza's
Honda's and GM use a sensor mounted near the engine, connected by wires to the ecu's.