***Jonesy***

Hi, I have searched and posted about this before, but all the conflicting advice is just confusing me.

Some people say induction kit, some people say induction kit with a heat shielld, some people say induction kit with an enclosed heat proof box, some people say induction kit with snorkle box removed from the wing, some people say induction kit mounted in the wing, some people say induction kits arnt needed under 330ish bhp, some people say keep standard box with performance filter in it (what I currently have), some people say keep what I have got but removed snorkle box from wing.........theres just so much conflicting advice.

So, please tell me once and for all whats best for my car:

1995 wrx wagon, td04h, 440's, walbro, apexi ecu, simota panel filter, ninja 2 fully decated, blitz ebc running 1.2bar, andy f remap, 280bhp

Was told I need sti tmic and "induction sorted" plus another remap to make 300bhp. I have a sti6 tmic sorted, I have the car booked in for another remap, all I need now is my 'induction sorted'

So what do you think I should do?

cheers guys

myblackwrx

iTrader: (1)

Keep what you've got at the mo and see what the remap does for,then get it on a rolling road to get an estimate of the power figure you've achieved.

***Jonesy***

Bit of a waste of 200 quid remap just for the intercooler alone tho?

myblackwrx

iTrader: (1)

True.
If you keep standard induction get a really good panel filter.
If you get an IK then you really need to get a heatsheild made (which isn't expensive).

If you buy an ik buy a good quality 1 (Apexi is my personal fave)

trails

iTrader: (41)

ask who ever told you to get the induction sorted to define their statement...OEM airbox is not restrictive below 350bhp

silent running

I'll make it simple. If you like induction noise, get an induction kit for the noise and slightly better airflow which you most likely don't need. A heatshield is pointless unless you think that heat doesn't find its way in, whatever you do. And if it's a good enough heatshield that actually seals out hot air, you've built..... an airbox, which is what you had in the first place.

If you are fitting an FMIC you need an induction kit whether you like it or not.

If you're sticking with TMIC then the choice is yours, do you want noise or not.

All IMHO of course, from modding and testing my own cars scientifically. But I can say with absolute certainty that there is no middle ground between an airbox and an induction kit - it's one or the other.

***Jonesy***

Thanks for that. So if I keep my standard air box what mods should I do to improve air flow? Or is that what you ment by no middle ground?

rossd001

an airbox, which is what you had in the first place.!!!!!

Dont know why, but that really made me

Think I can just imagine some bloke in his shed spending weeks making the same thing he has just took out his car!!!

***Jonesy***

Ok spoke to andy forrest and he says the airbox and tubing are quite restrictive on my year car, unlike later years, so he recommends an apexi induction kit with a heat shield.

So thats what im gunna do. Now to find them

Cheers everyone

silent running

LOL that bloke was me! I've been there, done it and worn the T-shirt. I've tried ducting up from foglight holes, shrouding intakes, heatshielding round induction cones, building big airboxes with an induction cone in the middle, extending intake tract down into the wing and making a 'ram air' airbox down there...the lot in fact. In most cases underbonnet air pressure is sufficiently high compared to the outside atmosphere that ram air does not work, bits of aluminium hose do not work, nothing works in fact to get cold air to an induction cone except your basic sealed airbox. Which is what you had in the first place.

Now I'll be the first to admit that many airbox designs aren't great and are built to fit rather than built for performance. But the principle is a good one. And I won't slate induction kits outright either. I've had plenty in the past and have one at the moment but not through choice (I have a FMIC). But I think it's when people imagine that they can have any hope of keeping hot engine bay air out of an open induction cone that they're kidding themselves. It's impossible unless you build a sealed airbox. BUT once you get to higher levels of tune and need greater airflow this disadvantage that open cones have of just pulling in everything, hot or cold, kind of becomes irrelevant compared to the upside of a much freer flowing inlet tract. It's swings and roundabouts like everything in engine tuning.

woody1980

ok i was looking into this at the moment. ive just fitted a fmic so i have a k&n at the moment. i was thinking about extending the pipe into the wing, bringing in colder air than engine bay. then having a full metal pipework, apart from maf going into the inlet and then heat wrapping the pipe to keep engine temps away from the inlet pipe?

rossd001

I just got a K&N and a big smile on my face when it sounds like its sucking the whole world through that big red cone!

Power Junkie

iTrader: (1)

I have just got the APS CAI kit, This will take the filter into the wing, away from the hot air in the engine bay, With the K&N filter it is ment to be MAF safe too