Electronic boost controller help
03 October 2007, 09:00 PM
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Electronic boost controller help
hi ive recently purchased a Hybrid-power spec D boost controller and after fitting my boost has gone down to 0.2 bar and will not go any higher. (the boost controller seems to have no controll whatsoever) the standard boost i was getting was only 0.5bar but this is rediculas,
can anyone tell me what to do about the original 3 port selenoid because at the minute if left the intake hose attached, and put a seperate piece of silicone tube from the actuator port to the turbo port on the selenoid. any help would be very much apprieciated
94WRX by the way.
Pete
can anyone tell me what to do about the original 3 port selenoid because at the minute if left the intake hose attached, and put a seperate piece of silicone tube from the actuator port to the turbo port on the selenoid. any help would be very much apprieciated
94WRX by the way.
Pete
04 October 2007, 08:55 AM
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I dont understand how you can only get .2 bar as the actuator pressure is higher than that so that would indicate a fault turbo side.
Also the hose you replaced to the turbo, did you put the restrictor into it? Also people have had problems with silicone hose before apparently it can expand under pressure.
Also the hose you replaced to the turbo, did you put the restrictor into it? Also people have had problems with silicone hose before apparently it can expand under pressure.
04 October 2007, 04:32 PM
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oki, ive been over everything and there are no leeks whatsoever. whats this restrictor, is it in the original pipe?, my major problem is the fact that when i turn up the boost on the device, nothing happens
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05 October 2007, 05:17 PM
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[QUOTE=petes21st;7303393]hi ive recently purchased a Hybrid-power spec D boost controller and after fitting my boost has gone down to 0.2 bar and will not go any higher. (the boost controller seems to have no controll whatsoever) the standard boost i was getting was only 0.5bar but this is rediculas,
Are you really only getting .5 bar?? The actuator should push more than this, take off the boost controller pipework and see what boost you get just from the actuator. I think .7 bar is standard although I think it depends what turbo/actuator you've got.
Are you really only getting .5 bar?? The actuator should push more than this, take off the boost controller pipework and see what boost you get just from the actuator. I think .7 bar is standard although I think it depends what turbo/actuator you've got.
05 October 2007, 05:44 PM
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right after the scariest drive of my life, i disconnected the pipes from the solenoid and it went like stink right up to somewere between 7.5 and 1bar then hit what felt like the fuel-cut point.
05 October 2007, 06:36 PM
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ive just done an ecu reset by the way, it was showing no faults... ive re-checked all the wiring and its all fine... could the problem be with the new electronic solenoid? is there any way of checking?
05 October 2007, 08:33 PM
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How can i check to see if my new electronic solenoid works? any ideas
Im guessing my problems is that my new solenoid doesn't work or is sticking and my original one needs cleaning witch i will try in the morning.
Im guessing my problems is that my new solenoid doesn't work or is sticking and my original one needs cleaning witch i will try in the morning.
05 October 2007, 09:09 PM
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Easy, its just an electronic valve at the end of the day, just give it + and - from battery and you'll hear her click. If click happens, then put pipework on it so you can blow down it, you should notice a difference in what you can blow when she clicks. If problem, try electrical cleaner spray down the pipe to the solenoid internals.
06 October 2007, 01:07 PM
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guess what no click, is it buggered? oh and i checked the wires comming from the boost controller and there is a signal. small but a signal, i also cleaned the original boost controller and im still getting 0.5bar from that. question though the restrictor in the intake pipe on the bottom of the solenoid am i supposed to keep or remove that?
07 October 2007, 12:44 AM
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Must say if solenoid dont click then it usually not healthy...it very simple device as regards electrical signals...open or closed I guess. Give it a good clean with wd40 over night and then test in morning straight from batt.
07 October 2007, 09:56 AM
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still nothing, but ive been thinking, maybe the wires on the top are just to power it and it might not open unless pressure is applied too. ill have to try ajusting it during boost again, who knows maybe ill get lucky
07 October 2007, 10:30 AM
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ok, tried ajusting under pressure, nothing just the same 0.2bar. looks like the new solenoid is buggered, but the question now is why after excessive cleaning is the original solenoid still producing 0.5bar.
do i need to remove the restrictor in the bottom intake pipe?
do i need to remove the restrictor in the bottom intake pipe?
07 October 2007, 11:35 PM
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how are you plumbing this up?
removed the original pipes from the original solenoid.. plumbed the new boost controller solenoid directly to the turbo?
Simon
removed the original pipes from the original solenoid.. plumbed the new boost controller solenoid directly to the turbo?
Simon
08 October 2007, 10:23 AM
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hello mate, i have a 94 wrx jdm and one of the mods i have on it is a Hybrid-power spec D boost controller. im assuming the selonoid you have is that blueish looking one.
Personally i would remove it put it all back to stock. Then connect the black and green connectors under the steering column. turn the key to on, this will cause your car to go into diagnostic mode and cause your standard boost solenoid to start clicking like mad. Get some brake cleaner. Disconnect the top hose from the boost solenoid. and Disconnect the hose at the bottom of the boost solenoid. this is the hose which connects to the turbo actuator.
get a cloth and put it under the area. spray the brake cleaner where you removed the top hose from the solenoid (inlet of the solenoid). the brake cleaner should clean the solenoid. where u disconencted the bottom hose you should get all the gunk comming out once, this has stopped and all you get is clean brake cleaner comming out. stop and clean the area. reconnect all the hoses. turn the key to off. then disconnect the green and black connectors from underneath the steering column. At this point it may be a good idea to do a ecu reset. im assuming u already know how to do this.
once this is done go for a drive and hopefully all should be ok. if not. then you will need to check all the sensors. i.e maf, crank, knock and make sure they are all ok as sometimes they may seem ok and the ecu may not give a code out. i know this as i have had the problem u are having. Also if you have a FMIC check the pipe work for this.
when i get home i will take a pic of my boost solonoid ( 3 port version) and pic of the hybrid controller fitted to it, thats if im not too tired as im at work on a 12 hour shift.
i hope that helps.
Regards djquest
Personally i would remove it put it all back to stock. Then connect the black and green connectors under the steering column. turn the key to on, this will cause your car to go into diagnostic mode and cause your standard boost solenoid to start clicking like mad. Get some brake cleaner. Disconnect the top hose from the boost solenoid. and Disconnect the hose at the bottom of the boost solenoid. this is the hose which connects to the turbo actuator.
get a cloth and put it under the area. spray the brake cleaner where you removed the top hose from the solenoid (inlet of the solenoid). the brake cleaner should clean the solenoid. where u disconencted the bottom hose you should get all the gunk comming out once, this has stopped and all you get is clean brake cleaner comming out. stop and clean the area. reconnect all the hoses. turn the key to off. then disconnect the green and black connectors from underneath the steering column. At this point it may be a good idea to do a ecu reset. im assuming u already know how to do this.
once this is done go for a drive and hopefully all should be ok. if not. then you will need to check all the sensors. i.e maf, crank, knock and make sure they are all ok as sometimes they may seem ok and the ecu may not give a code out. i know this as i have had the problem u are having. Also if you have a FMIC check the pipe work for this.
when i get home i will take a pic of my boost solonoid ( 3 port version) and pic of the hybrid controller fitted to it, thats if im not too tired as im at work on a 12 hour shift.
i hope that helps.
Regards djquest