Anybody running a newage with 400hp on standard air box?

Never thought about that in my plan for more power lol.

I have a MY02 STi UK

 

your jokin right

 

the newage standard air box is very efficent.. shouldn't be a problem.

Simon

 

Thanks Simon,

I thought I read that somewhere but want to check,

Nick.

 

Hi Simon,

In your opinion, at what level does the newage airbox become a restriction (assuming an uprated panel filter) and a induction kit become a necessity?

Cheers
Richard

 

Im guessing that this will be on the standard TMIC as well then???

whats your plans/mods for 400bhp!

 

You only need to look at the Type 25 to realise the standard air box is still perfect for 400+ bhp.

Only need to change it if your going down the FMIC route.

 

wich you dont really need to do until a good bit over 400bhp, the topmount is very good and can cope with it.

 

As said.. not a problem until into the 400s..

Simon

 

Got to make my mind up on final spec, but will be one of the following:

Approx 400bhp - MD321H, 650cc Inj, FPR and maybe change the PPP exhaust for a 3" system.

OR

Go the whole hog 450+bhp - 2.35 built engine, MD321T, APS FMIC, etc, etc....
Pretty sure the TMIC wouldn't handle the 321T blowing at 2 bar

 

I was told that on some cars at least, the MAF sensor got a bit confused because of the closeness to the airbox on that sort of power?




M

 

Some of the more expensive Ecu's get rid of the MAF altogether(I know Autronics did with my Evo), at least then you havent got the problem of a broken or confused MAF.

 

on large turbines you get some issues with a maf if it is too close to the turbo.
However if you have the original airbox fitted then you have an inlet pipe and therefore a couple of bends and some distance from the turbo between blades and maf

 

Makes sense - I was told this when I was planning having the MD321H installed. Cheers


M

 

On a Classic, I know the OE airbox is good to around 350 bhp and I think on New Age cars the OE airbox will be good to over 400 bhp.
Rather than surmise what is or is not working well, why not measure it very simply using a manometer.
Basically you need a clear plastic tube attached to a hard board or similar backing plate in the form of a "U" and this is about 2 feet overall length. Held vertically, water is put into the "U" until it is about half way up the length. Obviously both columns of water are the same level.
Now find a suitable hole or drill a hole providing you have a blanking plug, into the inlet tract somewhere close to the turbo inlet. You now have to run a length of tube from there to the passenger seat and connect it to one side of your manometer with the other leg left open to atmosphere. With the aid of a volunteer to hold the manometer you can now do some power runs in top gear preferably and you will see how much negative pressure you have in the system. Anything you can do to reduce the negative pressure will aid performance. You can even experiment with different air filters and no filter at all.
All very interesting stuff.

 

^^^^

might have to try this, lol..

I presume to get positive pressure (is this possible if turbo is sucking at full speed..?) you need a free flowing tract with good ram effect..?