Standard Air Box with 400hp
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Anybody running a newage with 400hp on standard air box?
Never thought about that in my plan for more power lol.
I have a MY02 STi UK
Never thought about that in my plan for more power lol.
I have a MY02 STi UK
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Hi Simon,
In your opinion, at what level does the newage airbox become a restriction (assuming an uprated panel filter) and a induction kit become a necessity?
Cheers
Richard
In your opinion, at what level does the newage airbox become a restriction (assuming an uprated panel filter) and a induction kit become a necessity?
Cheers
Richard
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You only need to look at the Type 25 to realise the standard air box is still perfect for 400+ bhp.
Only need to change it if your going down the FMIC route.
Only need to change it if your going down the FMIC route.
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Approx 400bhp - MD321H, 650cc Inj, FPR and maybe change the PPP exhaust for a 3" system.
OR
Go the whole hog 450+bhp - 2.35 built engine, MD321T, APS FMIC, etc, etc....
Pretty sure the TMIC wouldn't handle the 321T blowing at 2 bar
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However if you have the original airbox fitted then you have an inlet pipe and therefore a couple of bends and some distance from the turbo between blades and maf
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On a Classic, I know the OE airbox is good to around 350 bhp and I think on New Age cars the OE airbox will be good to over 400 bhp.
Rather than surmise what is or is not working well, why not measure it very simply using a manometer.
Basically you need a clear plastic tube attached to a hard board or similar backing plate in the form of a "U" and this is about 2 feet overall length. Held vertically, water is put into the "U" until it is about half way up the length. Obviously both columns of water are the same level.
Now find a suitable hole or drill a hole providing you have a blanking plug, into the inlet tract somewhere close to the turbo inlet. You now have to run a length of tube from there to the passenger seat and connect it to one side of your manometer with the other leg left open to atmosphere. With the aid of a volunteer to hold the manometer you can now do some power runs in top gear preferably and you will see how much negative pressure you have in the system. Anything you can do to reduce the negative pressure will aid performance. You can even experiment with different air filters and no filter at all.
All very interesting stuff.
Rather than surmise what is or is not working well, why not measure it very simply using a manometer.
Basically you need a clear plastic tube attached to a hard board or similar backing plate in the form of a "U" and this is about 2 feet overall length. Held vertically, water is put into the "U" until it is about half way up the length. Obviously both columns of water are the same level.
Now find a suitable hole or drill a hole providing you have a blanking plug, into the inlet tract somewhere close to the turbo inlet. You now have to run a length of tube from there to the passenger seat and connect it to one side of your manometer with the other leg left open to atmosphere. With the aid of a volunteer to hold the manometer you can now do some power runs in top gear preferably and you will see how much negative pressure you have in the system. Anything you can do to reduce the negative pressure will aid performance. You can even experiment with different air filters and no filter at all.
All very interesting stuff.
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^^^^
might have to try this, lol..![Wink](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/wink.gif)
I presume to get positive pressure (is this possible if turbo is sucking at full speed..?) you need a free flowing tract with good ram effect..?
might have to try this, lol..
![Wink](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/wink.gif)
I presume to get positive pressure (is this possible if turbo is sucking at full speed..?) you need a free flowing tract with good ram effect..?
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