heat sheild advice please
#1
heat sheild advice please
hi could anyone tell me if i need the heatsheild on my turbo as its all buckled under lower section and rattles like mad cant see anyway of getting a new one fitted as looks hell to get at just wondered whats the odds if i ditch it thanks
#5
Just remember that when you do remove it you will raise under bonnet temps quite considerably, particularly around the brake booster and clutch cylinder.
If you can find a way of improving heat shielding for these, do it.
The times that I've run no heat shield I've had the exhaust housing of my turbo professionally ceramic coated...works well and only costs about $100 (Oz) and a bit of effort to remove/replace the turbo.
If you can find a way of improving heat shielding for these, do it.
The times that I've run no heat shield I've had the exhaust housing of my turbo professionally ceramic coated...works well and only costs about $100 (Oz) and a bit of effort to remove/replace the turbo.
#6
The heatshield on my turbo up-pipe went twice and it was replaced under warranty. When it went a third time, I replaced it with Harvey's up-pipe which comes wrapped for £135.
His up-pipe helps with turbo spool too
His up-pipe helps with turbo spool too
#7
mine looks like a bolt has come out or something, cant get my hands in to put one in. thats all the damn thing needs.
the easiest thing for me is removal
I know there will be more heat , you rekon it could cause much/any problems?
Its so annoying this, just a simple thing but really hard to get to. It sounds like a right peice of crap with this noise.
the easiest thing for me is removal
I know there will be more heat , you rekon it could cause much/any problems?
Its so annoying this, just a simple thing but really hard to get to. It sounds like a right peice of crap with this noise.
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#8
If you have a GC/GF the clutch M/C should have it's own heat shield so that's not too much of a problem, and you can solve a bit of the booster problem with aluminium heat tape (self adhesive) which comes in a 2" wide roll. Only other problem is you'll tend to heat soak the top mount a bit more although this may also save money on speeding tickets.
It's always the bolt right on the bottom of the long bit that goes down to the up-pipe on the drivers side isn't it? Rattles like a sod eh?
Ya gotta have little Japanese hands mate. Or if you can get your hand down far enough, bend it out about 1/4 inch.
It's always the bolt right on the bottom of the long bit that goes down to the up-pipe on the drivers side isn't it? Rattles like a sod eh?
Ya gotta have little Japanese hands mate. Or if you can get your hand down far enough, bend it out about 1/4 inch.
#9
You will suffer even more from heat soak! Its not advised to run without any shielding. If your on a TMIC you will rise the charge temps considerably at low speeds and could lead to det.
If I was you I would manipulate the heat shield back in to place or remove and fit a new one. A ratchet spanner with adjustable head is really good at getting to those hard to reach bolts.
Mike
If I was you I would manipulate the heat shield back in to place or remove and fit a new one. A ratchet spanner with adjustable head is really good at getting to those hard to reach bolts.
Mike
#11
This would involve removing the turbo and cost would be a factor.......I wouldnt think this would be an ideal fix for a heatshield rattle. If the turbo was already coming off I would agree fitting a jacket is a good idea.
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