tensioner, pulleys
10 December 2007 | 10:34 PM
#2
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iv mine a year and the importer gave me the option of doing it,
i didnt, but have the belt and just orderd the tensioner.
doing it next week.
should do it when you get the car, the 2nd time...no idea.
did you get idlers and water pump?
think these are ment to be done aswell,
correct me if im wrong!
i didnt, but have the belt and just orderd the tensioner.
doing it next week.
should do it when you get the car, the 2nd time...no idea.
did you get idlers and water pump?
think these are ment to be done aswell,
correct me if im wrong!
11 December 2007 | 12:39 PM
#4
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From: Ascended to the next level
<mind reader mode> I presume you mean the cambelt???? 
If so, No, there is no set times for the pulleys to be changed.
If you meant the alternator/ a/c compressor belt; It's just visual inspection - replace when worn, damaged or perished.
With cambelt idlers, usually they "should" be inspected when the cambelt is removed. And checked for dryness, excess play or excess stiffness. Also tensioner piston checked for leaks and smooth operation. And replaced as and when - if needed.
It's normal to find one or two of the idler pulleys to be on the dry side and need changing after six or so years. But be careful on prices, idlers shouldn't cost more than £25 a peice (3 in total), Tensioner £90 and Belt £55
If so, No, there is no set times for the pulleys to be changed.
If you meant the alternator/ a/c compressor belt; It's just visual inspection - replace when worn, damaged or perished.
With cambelt idlers, usually they "should" be inspected when the cambelt is removed. And checked for dryness, excess play or excess stiffness. Also tensioner piston checked for leaks and smooth operation. And replaced as and when - if needed.
It's normal to find one or two of the idler pulleys to be on the dry side and need changing after six or so years. But be careful on prices, idlers shouldn't cost more than £25 a peice (3 in total), Tensioner £90 and Belt £55
Last edited by Shark Man; 11 December 2007 at 01:48 PM.
11 December 2007 | 03:00 PM
#6
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From: Over 500ft/lbs of torque @ just 1.1bar
I always change the cambelt tensioner when doing a cambelt (last one was only on for 20k miles)
The rest is just check/replace as necessary.
I've got some brand new original Subaru cambelt tensioners spare if you need.
Bob
The rest is just check/replace as necessary.
I've got some brand new original Subaru cambelt tensioners spare if you need.
Bob
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11 December 2007 | 08:29 PM
#8
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From: pembs
<mind reader mode> I presume you mean the cambelt????
If so, No, there is no set times for the pulleys to be changed.
If you meant the alternator/ a/c compressor belt; It's just visual inspection - replace when worn, damaged or perished.
With cambelt idlers, usually they "should" be inspected when the cambelt is removed. And checked for dryness, excess play or excess stiffness. Also tensioner piston checked for leaks and smooth operation. And replaced as and when - if needed.
It's normal to find one or two of the idler pulleys to be on the dry side and need changing after six or so years. But be careful on prices, idlers shouldn't cost more than £25 a peice (3 in total), Tensioner £90 and Belt £55
If so, No, there is no set times for the pulleys to be changed.
If you meant the alternator/ a/c compressor belt; It's just visual inspection - replace when worn, damaged or perished.
With cambelt idlers, usually they "should" be inspected when the cambelt is removed. And checked for dryness, excess play or excess stiffness. Also tensioner piston checked for leaks and smooth operation. And replaced as and when - if needed.
It's normal to find one or two of the idler pulleys to be on the dry side and need changing after six or so years. But be careful on prices, idlers shouldn't cost more than £25 a peice (3 in total), Tensioner £90 and Belt £55
11 December 2007 | 11:46 PM
#9
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From: ECU Mapping - www.JollyGreenMonster.co.uk
on the second cambelt it is worth doing the crank seal.. they tend to last about 100k and therefore you have to do the cambelt again.. also worth removing cam wheels and checking cam seals.
Simon
Simon
Last edited by Jolly Green Monster; 12 December 2007 at 10:25 AM.
12 December 2007 | 01:58 AM
#10
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Well, we could be super proper, do the crank seal, cam seals AND the water pump as well 
Unless you want to throw money at it, only do what is necessary. IMHO
Simon - how exactly do you YOU remove the crank position sensor in order to need changing the cambelt again?!?
Usually, I just undo the the 10mm bolt just infront of the alternator and out it comes 
Unless you want to throw money at it, only do what is necessary. IMHO
Simon - how exactly do you YOU remove the crank position sensor in order to need changing the cambelt again?!?
Usually, I just undo the the 10mm bolt just infront of the alternator and out it comes
12 December 2007 | 12:21 PM
#13
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From: Ascended to the next level
For a second I had visions of people changing the reluctor wheel 
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