i've just put a front mount on anyways.

but the revs when on say just over 2k seem frantic, its ok for a copuple of seconds. but then goes all funny

could this be becouse of the front mount.
i havent had the ecu set up for my car yet either

theres no engine light at all.
the car has also been standing for a good couple of months too

any ideas

 

Just an idea, have you dislodged and of the wiring from the air box, you didn't say what year car is. Possible damage to MAF as they are quite weak and will break if you bang them about. Just double check all the connections are tight and attached. If all is OK, I am sure someone more knowledgeable than me will be able to help

 

i'll have a check mate.

its a uk 95 classic. it was working fine before the cooler

 

Sounds like a possible air leak post maf induction, check all the intercooler pipe work.

 

just checked all conections. & it does it just under 2k

the engine light does come on, then turns off when back to tick over
i'm going to have a look to morrow when its light, check the hoses ect.

but i can not take the car anywhere as it needs an mot
so all ideas welcome

 

check the error code stored here

pipe leak would be most likely but weird for it to put the engine light on.

Simon

 

i'll have a good look tomorrow
its got to be something simple.

 

all pipes seem fine ect

but i have an idea, i changed the cam pullies to the metal type.
know the plastic ones have magnets instead of just metal

could the ecu be looking for these. & thats why there playing up
its just. 3 of the magnets are slightly bigger than the other four.

it may just be an idea, but is it worth just changing back to the plaggys

 

what year the from... phase 1 and 1.5 should be the same

 

No difference in the pulleys, they won’t be your problem assuming timing is correct and pick up is not damaged.

Could the maf have been damaged in the process maybe could have been knocked or a bad connection etc? If you have found no leaks then the check light is telling you its sensor or wiring related.

 

its a uk classic. but i keep thinking about the magnets on the plaggy cam pullie

the sti v2 ones are just metal.
its just, when the revs go funny. the car sounds like its not firing proper, & thats what made me think about the cam pullie,. 2 of the magnets are a lot stronger than the other 5

but the tick over is fine. when its cold its fine rev it up & let go, its perfect.

only if you keep the same revs for about 10/15 seconds does it play up

the maf hasent been droped/damaged in any way

is there away of checking with a multi meter at all
but with no mot, & the tax has just ran out

i can not take her anywhere

 

any other ideas what to check

 

Error codes!!!

 

i'll do that tomorrow

if it comes up as 13. is it safe to say it could be that cam pullie
i just don't know why there are magnets on the plastic pullies, t being stronger

if its the maf, a simple find
would it be better to get subaru them selves to plug in to the car?

 

no better taking it somewhere with the ability to find the fault.. without just replacing parts and charging you the earth

 

thanks mate, i'll try & get subaru to have a butches

but any idea to why theres magnets on the plaggy cam pullies?

 

I meant take it to a specialist not subaru..

if there was no magnets on the plastic ones the cam sensor would have nothing to pick up a cam rotation signal on..

Simon

 

The sensor is magnetically triggered.

 

I need a faster connection

 

but the metal sti v2 ones are not magnetic.
so in this, would there be a better stronger signal from the plaggy ones if say the sencer is old

this could then be a problem?

+ do you know if theres any good tuners near notts who come out at all

 

not that come out.. you have scoobyclinic as the nearest.

Simon

 

well, i've had the maf checked (checked it on a mates car) works fine

could it just be the car need to be mapped for this cooler?

 

oh ye, the car has a 96 7d ecu with an esl board in there. thats another reason i throught it would be the cam gears.

 

just been in touch qwith scooby clinic.

they said put the plastic ones back on, as this may solve the problem.
they also said, unless the car comes with the metal pullies.
they dont put them on

i've also got a new cam sencer just in case, i may just get anther set of the plaggys. as the main reason for changing was i crackes 2 of them & dident want to chance it

 

The way its works is pretty straight forward. Inside the cam sensor you have an iron centre surrounded by a coil. At the bottom of that coil sits a magnet. When the raised reluctors on the cam wheel passes the sensor it distorts the magnetic field creating a electro magnetic force in the coil which is then picked up by the ecu giving the exact position of the camshaft, the crankshaft which uses the same process.

The point that it is the raised area of the pulley that activates the cam sensor tells me that switching the pulleys from Bakelite to metal will make little difference if the positioning of the reluctors remains the same. If they where to differ a few degrees they will still be equal on all cams meaning the running of the car should be fine you could even gain from this, but incorrect cam timing wouldn’t equate to erratic revs more uneven idle, increased or lack of power if that where the case.

 

putting it like that, the car runs fine.

i think i'll have to check & re-check all the hoses again.
i just can not put my finger on it.

its some thing in front of me. just can not think what it is
thanks for all the replys.

this is also why i'm on here. you get results

nice one

 

i may have found the roody problem

dont even know how it happened either, it was working fine before

get this, one of the plugs had 2 cracks. 1 to each side. under presure it wasen't firing properly

for some reason, the oil presure was very high.
the last time this happened. one of the coils was packing up

well, touch wood. this was the problem
just sent off for another set of ngk platinum 7b plugs

 

well, after changing the plugs/cam & crank senser/checking the dv/all the hoses for the intercooler ect
i'm still having this little problem.

the maf is fine too.

i've also noticed the oil presure seems to be very high. when hot it sit at 32 when cold its at 92

anything else i can check
could it be the map its runing at all

could i just need to get the car mapped

 

what rev's it at at idle? if the revs are high at idle the oil pressure will read high anyway

 

between 900 & 1k
thats how it should be mate