Tools for Turbo change? and limiting boost.?
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Hi all ![Smile](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
fitting my td05 shortly ready for the remap, as im a mechanic and my tools are at my work place, which tools do i need to bring home to fit my td05 on my bugeye scoob?
Also
Can i limit the boost running through it until the remap at end of month? i.e, disconnect boost solinoid or similar? as asuming running the car as it is now on a td05 wont do it any good.
Cheers guys
![Smile](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
fitting my td05 shortly ready for the remap, as im a mechanic and my tools are at my work place, which tools do i need to bring home to fit my td05 on my bugeye scoob?
Also
Can i limit the boost running through it until the remap at end of month? i.e, disconnect boost solinoid or similar? as asuming running the car as it is now on a td05 wont do it any good.
Cheers guys
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Henrik, you might wana pik up the following to:
17mm and 19mm sockets 1 of em does fit the water pipes on the side of the turbo. I cant remember but i think the top oil connection is a 14mm. You will also need a set of pliers or grips to remove the hose clamps
lots of WD40, and as u know if you split the the nuts or cut the studs, you will need replacements.
Good Luck
17mm and 19mm sockets 1 of em does fit the water pipes on the side of the turbo. I cant remember but i think the top oil connection is a 14mm. You will also need a set of pliers or grips to remove the hose clamps
lots of WD40, and as u know if you split the the nuts or cut the studs, you will need replacements.
Good Luck
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lol yes, well fitted a down pipe not long ago so thatll be free, just the turbo on the manifold and oil/water pipes lol
Any suggestions on the boost issue?
Any suggestions on the boost issue?
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Sockets for the downpipe. I think they're 17mm or 19mm.
As many different extension bars as you can find and a swivle head wratchet is a pretty usefull tool for this job.
When I did mine, I put aside a full Sunday to change the turbos to make sure all the nuts came off and my new turbo was ok, then I switched the turbos back until the day of the remap.
It only took me and a mate around an hour and a half to change the turbos, remove the resonator box and fit a cold air feed in the morning, then it was off for the remap in the afternoon.
As for boost, I have a boost gauge so just drove it off boost till I got there.
If you take it easy and drive sensibly, it should be fine.
Its when on full boost it will run lean.
As many different extension bars as you can find and a swivle head wratchet is a pretty usefull tool for this job.
When I did mine, I put aside a full Sunday to change the turbos to make sure all the nuts came off and my new turbo was ok, then I switched the turbos back until the day of the remap.
It only took me and a mate around an hour and a half to change the turbos, remove the resonator box and fit a cold air feed in the morning, then it was off for the remap in the afternoon.
As for boost, I have a boost gauge so just drove it off boost till I got there.
If you take it easy and drive sensibly, it should be fine.
Its when on full boost it will run lean.
Last edited by weeebell; 11 February 2008 at 07:33 PM.
#6
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Not a clue about the boost thing, but i'm guessing that you might be able to adjust the wastegate (the nut on the connecting rod to the turbine housing), to open slightly earlier.
Dont quote me on this, as i'm no boost expert. Or possibly a cheap boost controller tapped into the system. (manual controllers are about £15) but i get a funny feeling that you wont be able to under boost as the wastegate will be preset to a factory setting approx 15psi.
Dont quote me on this, as i'm no boost expert. Or possibly a cheap boost controller tapped into the system. (manual controllers are about £15) but i get a funny feeling that you wont be able to under boost as the wastegate will be preset to a factory setting approx 15psi.
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if its a 2 port boost valve i think you can remove the brass oriface in the short pipe from tee piece to turbo nipple. did this on mine and it stayed around 6/7 psi if that.. sure you can do this but i could be wrong..
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all tools already mentioned but give bolts/nuts a good soaking with wd40 night before to make removal a bit easier.
put a piece of pipe from compressor housing outlet direct on to waste gate actuator,will only make about 0.6bar boost then.
put a piece of pipe from compressor housing outlet direct on to waste gate actuator,will only make about 0.6bar boost then.
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New gaskets, seals, bolts all ordered from subaru should be hear nxt week so can start fitting
Booked in for mapping on 3rd march... cant wait
Booked in for mapping on 3rd march... cant wait
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#12
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As Wayne, says just connect the compressor boost signal directly to the actuator with a bit of vacuum hose. It will limit it to about half a bar.
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Even if you turbo has an up-rated actuator ?
DunxC
P.S. Thread Hi-jack.....
P.P.S. Hi James good luck ! I'm running out of money ! LOL
DunxC
P.S. Thread Hi-jack.....
P.P.S. Hi James good luck ! I'm running out of money ! LOL
Last edited by dunx; 15 February 2008 at 07:01 PM.
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If it has an uprated actuator e.g. 1 bar, then it will run at 1bar and no lower. Unless your actuator has an adjustable turnbuckle thing on its rod, you're pretty much stuck with minimum boost being set by your actuator.
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To limit boost, it's easier to just clamp the T'd hose going to the boost solenoid, that way you don't have to remove any hoses..
Brake clamps or better still some small forceps are ideal..![Big Grin](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Did this recently after an enquiry about limiting boost for say a valet mode. Worked very well, peaking at 0.6bar and takes about 2 seconds to do/remove..
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Did this recently after an enquiry about limiting boost for say a valet mode. Worked very well, peaking at 0.6bar and takes about 2 seconds to do/remove..
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lol i havent
ill have a rummage at work tomorrow, gaskets and stuff finally come, going to wait till sat before fit it when its light lol
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