-6 fitting leaking fuel...
#1
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From: Slowly rebuilding the kit of bits into a car...
-6 fitting leaking fuel...
As title, looks like a defect in the union on the fuel rail....
So fed-up, no way the car is going to get mapped today now
But anyway, does anyone have any advice ?
Can I try some petrol resistant "gob" to try and seal the cone, or is it time to start again from scratch with an 08 STI ?
Advice received with thanks,
DunxC
So fed-up, no way the car is going to get mapped today now
But anyway, does anyone have any advice ?
Can I try some petrol resistant "gob" to try and seal the cone, or is it time to start again from scratch with an 08 STI ?
Advice received with thanks,
DunxC
Last edited by dunx; 26 May 2008 at 06:48 PM.
#2
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From: "Speed has never killed anyone, suddenly becoming stationary...Now that's what gets you."
if it was me i would try what ever i could to stop it from leaking. If you have booked someone to come and map it i dont think they will be to happy to find out that its got a leaking fuel pipe so it cant be done.
have you tryed some PTFE tape ?? on the cone and threaded section.
what your fuel pressure set at ? maybe alittle to high ?
mark
have you tryed some PTFE tape ?? on the cone and threaded section.
what your fuel pressure set at ? maybe alittle to high ?
mark
#3
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From: Slowly rebuilding the kit of bits into a car...
Started leaking at 1 bar, only 2.5 to go !
They are machined to fit without any "bodge" tactics..... all the others are fine.
Obviously, JGM isn't here just for me, so he will do the others and head back south. Can't imagine he's fussed one way or the other.
Hmmm !
Grumpy Dunx
They are machined to fit without any "bodge" tactics..... all the others are fine.
Obviously, JGM isn't here just for me, so he will do the others and head back south. Can't imagine he's fussed one way or the other.
Hmmm !
Grumpy Dunx
#4
dunx
A did you ptfe the joints?
is it leaking from the fitting in front or behind the joint
how tight did you tighten it
did the join close smoothly or did it have resistence before the pinch point
i would take off fuel cap to release pressure disconnect fuel pump, start car till it dies to realease pressure, loosen fitting slowly and check seal
re ptfe joint and pinch up again, remember -an fitting do not need to be forced tight good hand tight (with spanner) plus a 1/4 turn is all you really need though i have always gone another 1/2 turn instead of a 1/4 lol
too much pressure and you can and will damage fitting.
good way to check is the the joints should now be solid and not be able to wobble or turn with any force
A did you ptfe the joints?
is it leaking from the fitting in front or behind the joint
how tight did you tighten it
did the join close smoothly or did it have resistence before the pinch point
i would take off fuel cap to release pressure disconnect fuel pump, start car till it dies to realease pressure, loosen fitting slowly and check seal
re ptfe joint and pinch up again, remember -an fitting do not need to be forced tight good hand tight (with spanner) plus a 1/4 turn is all you really need though i have always gone another 1/2 turn instead of a 1/4 lol
too much pressure and you can and will damage fitting.
good way to check is the the joints should now be solid and not be able to wobble or turn with any force
#5
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From: Slowly rebuilding the kit of bits into a car...
Hmmm
Thanks for the input fellas...
All the other joints are fine, suspect a mis-shaped -6 fitting on the end of the fuel rail.
Tried two different connectors, and both show signs of marking on the seats, and both leaked.
Will try a touch of ptfe, but really don't need the swarf in my fuel system....
Thanks,
Duncan
All the other joints are fine, suspect a mis-shaped -6 fitting on the end of the fuel rail.
Tried two different connectors, and both show signs of marking on the seats, and both leaked.
Will try a touch of ptfe, but really don't need the swarf in my fuel system....
Thanks,
Duncan
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From: ECU Mapping - www.JollyGreenMonster.co.uk
Started leaking at 1 bar, only 2.5 to go !
They are machined to fit without any "bodge" tactics..... all the others are fine.
Obviously, JGM isn't here just for me, so he will do the others and head back south. Can't imagine he's fussed one way or the other.
Hmmm !
Grumpy Dunx
They are machined to fit without any "bodge" tactics..... all the others are fine.
Obviously, JGM isn't here just for me, so he will do the others and head back south. Can't imagine he's fussed one way or the other.
Hmmm !
Grumpy Dunx
Simon
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#10
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From: Slowly rebuilding the kit of bits into a car...
Well sneaked out of work at lunch-time and smeared the t-piece with blue hylomar.....
Got fuel pressure now !
So only 36 hours too late I'm ready for a re-re-map !
LOL
DunxC
Got fuel pressure now !
So only 36 hours too late I'm ready for a re-re-map !
LOL
DunxC
#11
Bummer! Glad it's sorted now, I hate fuel leaks. Fingers crossed, my home made parallel system is still totally leak-free at 3.5 bar and that's just using plain pipes, some barbed, some slightly flared, some just a cut-off end! And standard 8mm fuel hose. I'd be gutted if I'd put a -6 system together and it leaked...
#12
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From: Slowly rebuilding the kit of bits into a car...
Yeah !
Tell me about it, but to be honest I have always done my own spanner work on other non-Scoobs, just getting the inlet manifold off to do this was quite amusing...
Set mine to 3 bar for now, but may wait till pay day for a TSL 3" system !
Then a JGM !
LOL
DunxC
Tell me about it, but to be honest I have always done my own spanner work on other non-Scoobs, just getting the inlet manifold off to do this was quite amusing...
Set mine to 3 bar for now, but may wait till pay day for a TSL 3" system !
Then a JGM !
LOL
DunxC
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