Tucker82

iTrader: (7)

I have the nice task of changing the head gaskets on my 95 wrx...

Being a new on here... I need some help!

Does anyone have a manual or any lit to change the heads at all? Also...any advise on what gaskets to use...fibre or metal etc.. im not running massive boost... close to 300bhp

Im not sure what special tools are needed, if any and what problems may pop up along the way!?

Thanks people...

Tucker82

iTrader: (7)

Any help at all would be appreciated! Before I start tearing the car to bits...

merlin24

iTrader: (1)

Do a search on ScoobyNet for workshop manuals you can download.
As for the head gaskets,go for the STi Version 3 - 4 Thick MLS Gaskets - they will handle the horsepower and more that your looking at.
As far as the tools are concerned - a decent set of sockets and spanners will stop you "rounding" things off and you need a 14mm 12 point socket for the head bolts.
Change the cam seals while your at it and get a tube of grey 3 Bond for sealing the front cam caps/cam covers/half moons etc.

Mick

Tucker82

iTrader: (7)

Thanks Mick.... Anymore fellas!?

KLR16V

iTrader: (2)

Chris Palmer's Home Page

link to full manuals for your car click on scooby link opens up full manuals i used them to do head gasket on my 93 wrx all torque settings there full workshop manual.

Mark

KLR16V

iTrader: (2)

I also stripped the heads down and fitted new valve stem seals and re seated all the valves whilst it was all in bits and got both heads skimmed , fitted a new water pump and defo a new stat that caused mine to go in the first place as above new crank seal front and back , new cam seals and new rocker cover gasket sets and use 3 bond for sealing the rocker cover gaskets and cam seals just make sure every thing is clean . Took the engine out first and put on engine stand and stripped down remember you will need other gaskets like inlet manifold , i bought a complete engine gasket set just to make sure , then dropped the gear box down onto the floor stripped engine and re-built on stand putting cam belt on then fitted new clutch and bolted gear box onto engine then removed headers to give clearence and lowered the engine and box bolted together back into car was a tight fit but with headers off it will go in then bolted everything back up , did it this way to save having to align the gear box back onto engine on car .

Mark

KLR16V

iTrader: (2)

I fitted standard head gaskets from API that was 4 years ago still running fine at about 300 bhp and still on borg and beck clutch .

Mark

Tucker82

iTrader: (7)

Ok thats a great help mark, thanks alot. I didnt realise but I've got the workshop manual on disc already!

Did you strip the engine down in the bay, then lift it out? Do you know what I have to do to bleed the power steering and air con before i dismantle the pumps etc!?

Think Im ready to start stripping to lift it on the weekend.
p.s. I hate trains!

james-wrx

The best advice I have had is "TAKE YOUR TIME" and dont rush!!

KLR16V

iTrader: (2)

Un bolt air con and pull to one side out of way you dont need to disconnect it same for power steering lifted complete engine out of car and then stripped it down easier as you have more access out of car think i slung it around inlet manifold and bolted a lifting eye where the power steering was ,straight up and out once you have split it from the gear box just remember to check for any forgotten connectors and lift slowly i numbered all things i dissconnected with tape to make it easier to rember what went where take lots of pics before to help you after , you know about removing starter to gain access to clutch fork so you can dissconnect the gear box !!

Also drain all coolant out of engine outside then wheel it to where you are goin to strip keeeps the work area dryier that way !!

API and AS performance supplied me with all bits

check condition of fly wheel got mine skimmed while it was off just to re-face it to prevent any clutch judder .

Mark

Tucker82

iTrader: (7)

well I started to strip today and found that the air con is bone dry, so I removed it to make things easier.
The power steering will have to come out, as there is a leak from behind the pulley on the front that looks quite fresh. Does anyone know what this problem may be and if its easily fixed? maybe its a O ring or something? Or would it be a replacement pump? If anyone can let me know where the bleed nipple is for the P/S that would be great!

Plenty of pics, and lots and lots of sticky labels everywhere!!

KLR16V

iTrader: (2)

How are you getting on ?

dan83590

https://www.scoobynet.com/projects-4...e-rebuild.html

Some good reading here too. May help a bit.

Tucker82

iTrader: (7)

KLR16V - yea its going well, so far! Engine has been out for a week now, and had the heads tested today, they are fine! Had them lightly skimmed & cleaned. Going to strip down, re-lap valves and replace stem seals. Spent alot of time with bits in the kitchen sink with buckets of de-greasant and re-taping the wiring looms! It all looks nice and clean which is good. Few probs along the way - broken injector - power steering pump knackered, but so far im pleased with it. Looking forward to getting the engine back in the next week, then modding for a re-map!

Thanks for all the advise fellas, I was Sh**ing pants to begin with to say the least!