equal length headers and the oil filter
#1
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From: From Outback 2 classic wagon 2 newage wagon 2 Legy TT 2 classic 2 newage STi
equal length headers and the oil filter
Have recently completed a twin scroll conversion, have also fitted an oil cooler which has lowered the filter, have had to remove some of the header heatshield so I can access the oil filter.
This is going to get very hot(given it is for track use) and wondered what ppl who have = length headers do to get round this problem.
put heat wrap on the exposed header.
wrap the oil filter.
get another sanwich plate that allows me to move the filter??
experience welcome.
cheers
Matt
This is going to get very hot(given it is for track use) and wondered what ppl who have = length headers do to get round this problem.
put heat wrap on the exposed header.
wrap the oil filter.
get another sanwich plate that allows me to move the filter??
experience welcome.
cheers
Matt
#3
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From: From Outback 2 classic wagon 2 newage wagon 2 Legy TT 2 classic 2 newage STi
Floyd
Its a vf37, a bit of a bugger to tell you the truth, thought it was a straight forward swap, then realised i needed the =length headers and uppipe, then the twin scroll sump, oil pickup, windage tray, dip stick!!!!
It is a 55plate wrx that we(me and my brother) are turning into our new track car, sti8 TMIC, oil cooler, pink 550's, Walbro, 3port solenoid, K&N Apollo DIY cold feed, AndyC remap. Full set of AST's and whiteline arb/alk. Ksport 8pot 330's with DIY cooling ducts.
Could really fo with some advice on DIY heatsheilding, porting, suspension setup, brake biasing, etc.
Have started reading your thread and it looks pretty awsome.
Hopefully you can help us out with a lot of common sense advice.
Oh by the way, have you moved you filter or how do you heatshield it.
cheers
Matt
Its a vf37, a bit of a bugger to tell you the truth, thought it was a straight forward swap, then realised i needed the =length headers and uppipe, then the twin scroll sump, oil pickup, windage tray, dip stick!!!!
It is a 55plate wrx that we(me and my brother) are turning into our new track car, sti8 TMIC, oil cooler, pink 550's, Walbro, 3port solenoid, K&N Apollo DIY cold feed, AndyC remap. Full set of AST's and whiteline arb/alk. Ksport 8pot 330's with DIY cooling ducts.
Could really fo with some advice on DIY heatsheilding, porting, suspension setup, brake biasing, etc.
Have started reading your thread and it looks pretty awsome.
Hopefully you can help us out with a lot of common sense advice.
Oh by the way, have you moved you filter or how do you heatshield it.
cheers
Matt
#4
You are pretty much following my spec anyway. I didn't need an oil cooler in the end so I don't have that problem. I even keep the undertray on the car in summer and I do track days and the Ring.
Yes, the VF37 isn't a straight swap! lol but you now have the parts it seems. What DP did you use?
Yes, the VF37 isn't a straight swap! lol but you now have the parts it seems. What DP did you use?
#5
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From: From Outback 2 classic wagon 2 newage wagon 2 Legy TT 2 classic 2 newage STi
Floyd
We have a full Miltek DP/CS and BB, we bought a job lot of parts off a guy on here off a written off spec C(full exhaust, VF37, W/L bits, AST's, Licenced ECU(which is no good to us))
We have put it all on now(plus all the other bits we had to buy!!!!
When we got the TS sump we had it baffled by API.
Other Q's you maybe to help us with:
What have you done with ur ABS and Bias valve?
Is it worth heatwrapping everythin(DP,Turbo,Headers,uppipe) and if so what with.
Have you made a homemade/modified heatshield for ur vf37
Why did u not go with an oil cooler?
cheers
Matt
We have a full Miltek DP/CS and BB, we bought a job lot of parts off a guy on here off a written off spec C(full exhaust, VF37, W/L bits, AST's, Licenced ECU(which is no good to us))
We have put it all on now(plus all the other bits we had to buy!!!!
When we got the TS sump we had it baffled by API.
Other Q's you maybe to help us with:
What have you done with ur ABS and Bias valve?
Is it worth heatwrapping everythin(DP,Turbo,Headers,uppipe) and if so what with.
Have you made a homemade/modified heatshield for ur vf37
Why did u not go with an oil cooler?
cheers
Matt
#6
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From: Class record holder at Pembrey Llandow Goodwood MIRA Hethel Blyton Curborough Lydden and Snetterton
Interesting that you have the K+N apollo, looking at their website I think they aren't rated past 350HP, which put me off getting one - shame because other than that it was ideal for what I wanted to do.
I mention it because your spec must be around that figure, so you might need to address the filter.
I mention it because your spec must be around that figure, so you might need to address the filter.
Last edited by Jay m A; 03 July 2008 at 10:22 AM.
#7
Hi Matt,
What have you done with ur ABS and Bias valve? Nothing, they are standard. What issue do you have here?
Is it worth heatwrapping everythin(DP,Turbo,Headers,uppipe) and if so what with.You must lag your DP to the join with the CS. I modified the original Turbo heat shield to fit the VF37. I prefer not to lag the turbo due to my fear of it cracking/cooking. Headers have the OE shielding, which I think is the best. The SN project car (Shauns) report worse figures with wrapped headers than OE shielding. If you had to remove some of it then lag it in that area and make sure the oil return pipe is not touching the exhuast manifold (there are pictures on my project). Leave the up pipe with OE shielding.
Have you made a homemade/modified heatshield for ur vf37. Yes, modified OE shield and it just needed tin snips and a bit of bending to clear the actuator.
Why did u not go with an oil cooler? My temps don't go above 120C on hot track days and usually sit at 110 on track. The oil is good for 130-140C. I ran a TD05 at one time and the temps were higher with it but they went down with the VF turbos. If I want to go 2.5 then there are reports that they run hotter and the cooler is required. You should have snapped the spec C oil cooler up!
Cheers
What have you done with ur ABS and Bias valve? Nothing, they are standard. What issue do you have here?
Is it worth heatwrapping everythin(DP,Turbo,Headers,uppipe) and if so what with.You must lag your DP to the join with the CS. I modified the original Turbo heat shield to fit the VF37. I prefer not to lag the turbo due to my fear of it cracking/cooking. Headers have the OE shielding, which I think is the best. The SN project car (Shauns) report worse figures with wrapped headers than OE shielding. If you had to remove some of it then lag it in that area and make sure the oil return pipe is not touching the exhuast manifold (there are pictures on my project). Leave the up pipe with OE shielding.
Have you made a homemade/modified heatshield for ur vf37. Yes, modified OE shield and it just needed tin snips and a bit of bending to clear the actuator.
Why did u not go with an oil cooler? My temps don't go above 120C on hot track days and usually sit at 110 on track. The oil is good for 130-140C. I ran a TD05 at one time and the temps were higher with it but they went down with the VF turbos. If I want to go 2.5 then there are reports that they run hotter and the cooler is required. You should have snapped the spec C oil cooler up!
Cheers
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#10
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From: From Outback 2 classic wagon 2 newage wagon 2 Legy TT 2 classic 2 newage STi
I couldnt make out what the vf number was on the turbo to tell you the truth, was told it was off a spec C, but it is definitely a twin scroll due to all the extra bits we had to get to make it fit.
What is the difference between the vf 35's/36's/37's?
Floyd, thx for the advice on the heatshield/wrapping, etc.
I take it you have a catch can, thats next on our list.
We are having the cage fitted on monday ready for our first day out in her @ cadwell on the 15th, dead excited!!
the thing with the brakes, we where advised to ditch the abs for track use, and when we started readin a post from the 22b site we started thinking about the bias(given we have massively upgraded the fronts(though havent been run in yet!!!))
Andy F posted that by removing the bias valve it greatly increased braking effectivemess after a front upgrade. open to ideas on that one. will just pull the abs fuse for the mo.
PS Floyd, where u based?
cheers lads
What is the difference between the vf 35's/36's/37's?
Floyd, thx for the advice on the heatshield/wrapping, etc.
I take it you have a catch can, thats next on our list.
We are having the cage fitted on monday ready for our first day out in her @ cadwell on the 15th, dead excited!!
the thing with the brakes, we where advised to ditch the abs for track use, and when we started readin a post from the 22b site we started thinking about the bias(given we have massively upgraded the fronts(though havent been run in yet!!!))
Andy F posted that by removing the bias valve it greatly increased braking effectivemess after a front upgrade. open to ideas on that one. will just pull the abs fuse for the mo.
PS Floyd, where u based?
cheers lads
#11
I will be at that Cadwell day so we can talk and review mods there
I have AP 4 pots up front and I like the ABS!!!! It warns me when I'm overdoing things... Harvey (IIRC) got me a bias bypass adapter a few years ago but I've not got around to fitting it. He said there were great improvements from equalising the pressure but at the time I was worried about my driving skills coping with potential 'end swapping' under braking. I think I could handle it now.
I have a catch can and the details on what I've done are in the project thread.
The VF35 is single scroll (had one of these), the Spec C is VF36 and ball bearing twin scroll version of the VF37, which I have now.
I have AP 4 pots up front and I like the ABS!!!! It warns me when I'm overdoing things... Harvey (IIRC) got me a bias bypass adapter a few years ago but I've not got around to fitting it. He said there were great improvements from equalising the pressure but at the time I was worried about my driving skills coping with potential 'end swapping' under braking. I think I could handle it now.
I have a catch can and the details on what I've done are in the project thread.
The VF35 is single scroll (had one of these), the Spec C is VF36 and ball bearing twin scroll version of the VF37, which I have now.
#12
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From: From Outback 2 classic wagon 2 newage wagon 2 Legy TT 2 classic 2 newage STi
Floyd
Cool, thatll be great look forward to meeting you, do you do many with circuit days, we have been out with them 15 times(in our old 205) Chris is quite a nice fella.
thanks for the info so far, I think you can really help us going forward.
Was up till 1:30 last nite reading your project post, and am only on page 9!!!!!
Makes for a great read, just what we need.
cheers
Matt
Cool, thatll be great look forward to meeting you, do you do many with circuit days, we have been out with them 15 times(in our old 205) Chris is quite a nice fella.
thanks for the info so far, I think you can really help us going forward.
Was up till 1:30 last nite reading your project post, and am only on page 9!!!!!
Makes for a great read, just what we need.
cheers
Matt
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