Resonator box removal on classic?
#1
Resonator box removal on classic?
Hi guys after recently putting up a post about installing an induction kit, i was advised againt this because it was bad for the MAF and can also cause problems like rough running engines and running lean. I wanted an IK because ive heard they release good power gains and sound the dogs!!
I was advised that removing the resonator box would make the engine breathe better, and free up a few bhp as well as amplifying the sound of the turbo spooling up, induction noise and BOV. is it worth doing it and is it a safe mod? i know u have to cut up a piece of tubing to bypass the resonator box properly
Does anyone have a step by step guide?
cheers
I was advised that removing the resonator box would make the engine breathe better, and free up a few bhp as well as amplifying the sound of the turbo spooling up, induction noise and BOV. is it worth doing it and is it a safe mod? i know u have to cut up a piece of tubing to bypass the resonator box properly
Does anyone have a step by step guide?
cheers
#2
i'm looking to do the same thing,all i know so far is you need to take the plastic off from the wheel arch to get to it
have you replaced the o.e panel filter for something like a k&n or green panel filter
have you replaced the o.e panel filter for something like a k&n or green panel filter
#6
I removed mine in 1/2 hour, makes a huge difference to the spool up volume.
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#7
I had read on here that removing the snorkel ie. the inner wing resonator box was a performance mod. I had done it a couple of times in the past but could not determine any gain. (Unless you wanted more noise from the induction) On this occasion with an STi 3 Wagon I wanted to test various panel air filters and see what gains were to be had from the snorkel removal.
The tests were conducted on a Dyno Dynamics rolling road at TEG Sport on 2 consecutive afternoons. The best power run was 335.5 bhp with the snorkel. The best power run after removing the snorkel was 325 bhp. After refitting the snorkel I immediately got 335 bhp. For me this was conclusive and I think that with the snorkel removed the air flow was sufficiently disrupted to cause the power loss.
I had cut 2" off the original snorkel so that it butted in to the inner wing to facilitate best possible air flow. I had to obtain a replacement snorkel to go back to the original OE system.
As the car was on a standard ECU (with standard injectors and turbo) it was not possible to experiment with fuelling to determine if there would be any gains with a mappable ECU.
The result was contrary to what I had expected but worthwhile as far as I am concerned.
The tests were conducted on a Dyno Dynamics rolling road at TEG Sport on 2 consecutive afternoons. The best power run was 335.5 bhp with the snorkel. The best power run after removing the snorkel was 325 bhp. After refitting the snorkel I immediately got 335 bhp. For me this was conclusive and I think that with the snorkel removed the air flow was sufficiently disrupted to cause the power loss.
I had cut 2" off the original snorkel so that it butted in to the inner wing to facilitate best possible air flow. I had to obtain a replacement snorkel to go back to the original OE system.
As the car was on a standard ECU (with standard injectors and turbo) it was not possible to experiment with fuelling to determine if there would be any gains with a mappable ECU.
The result was contrary to what I had expected but worthwhile as far as I am concerned.
As reference has been made to some testing I did previously, please let me clarify.
Four pannel filters were tried.
The "best" performer in terms of power on two separate days was the HKS Green pannel.
Next O/E Subaru disposable.
Next was the K+N followed by the STi (disposable)
The difference was only 2bhp.
Prodrive (Mike Wood) confirmed my results were roughly in line with their findings.
The tests were done on a car with O/E ECU without any form of remapping which would not have been possible anyway and the chances of mapping making any difference for 2 bhp different air flow are extremely remote.
At the same time I also found that removing the inner wing resonator on its own resulted in a decrease in power by, (from memory) 5 bhp.
Tests were done one afternoon within 45 mins and as results were not as expected, repeated the following day with similar results.
Subsequently I investigated the filtering abilities of each filter as best as I could.
Clearly the HKS Green Pannel could pass quite large grains of sand.
There was no appreciable difference between the other three although I think the STi is probably best at filtering down to a small micron particle size.
On a car I am keeping, I would settle on a K+N as it is reusable and if the sales blurb is to be believed it has good service life. Otherwise I would use the O/E Subaru filter.
When the engine was rebuilt on the test car, I know the turbo compressor wheel was unmarked. That turbo was removed over last week-end and the edges of the compressor blades are finely peened and nicked. I will try and post a photo. I had not changed the HKS Green pannel but obviously now wish that I had done. Another lesson learned.
The car now has a replacement turbo and a K+N pannel on order from RCMS with a mapping session on the rollers with Steve Simpson this Friday.
At a later stage I will try a bigger turbo but while below 350 bhp I will stick with the pannel and O/E induction air box (without a MAF Sensor on the Simtek ECU) I may try an experiment, pannel/cone, especially above 350 bhp.
Four pannel filters were tried.
The "best" performer in terms of power on two separate days was the HKS Green pannel.
Next O/E Subaru disposable.
Next was the K+N followed by the STi (disposable)
The difference was only 2bhp.
Prodrive (Mike Wood) confirmed my results were roughly in line with their findings.
The tests were done on a car with O/E ECU without any form of remapping which would not have been possible anyway and the chances of mapping making any difference for 2 bhp different air flow are extremely remote.
At the same time I also found that removing the inner wing resonator on its own resulted in a decrease in power by, (from memory) 5 bhp.
Tests were done one afternoon within 45 mins and as results were not as expected, repeated the following day with similar results.
Subsequently I investigated the filtering abilities of each filter as best as I could.
Clearly the HKS Green Pannel could pass quite large grains of sand.
There was no appreciable difference between the other three although I think the STi is probably best at filtering down to a small micron particle size.
On a car I am keeping, I would settle on a K+N as it is reusable and if the sales blurb is to be believed it has good service life. Otherwise I would use the O/E Subaru filter.
When the engine was rebuilt on the test car, I know the turbo compressor wheel was unmarked. That turbo was removed over last week-end and the edges of the compressor blades are finely peened and nicked. I will try and post a photo. I had not changed the HKS Green pannel but obviously now wish that I had done. Another lesson learned.
The car now has a replacement turbo and a K+N pannel on order from RCMS with a mapping session on the rollers with Steve Simpson this Friday.
At a later stage I will try a bigger turbo but while below 350 bhp I will stick with the pannel and O/E induction air box (without a MAF Sensor on the Simtek ECU) I may try an experiment, pannel/cone, especially above 350 bhp.
Last edited by corradoboy; 03 August 2008 at 09:21 PM.
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#8
when the resonater is removed,where is the air going to the airbox getting pulled from. my car had a induction kit on it when in japan,this was replaced with an o,e airbox and k&n panel filter ,but the piece of duct from above the headlight to the wing is not there?
#9
I removed mine in my Blobeye and sealed the airbox to the wing so it could only draw air from there. I made sure no hot engine bay air could get in by sealing all the holes up, and then opened up ways for air to get into the wing. Some people have ducted directly from the front of the car, usually through the foglight aperture, but there have been cases of MAF failure and dead engines when induced water, dirt, oil and whatever else overwhelms the filter and makes it into the induction pipe.
#10
Not saying it isn't going to kill MAFs but they can fail at anytime for any reason.
Damo
#11
thanks for the replies guys, but i have read a few posts now on this subject, with some saying that it relaeses power, and other sayin you loose power, so which is it?!? is it worth doing or shall i leave it as it is?
#12
How does each camp justify their case ? Simply saying it feels like there's more power doesn't justify their case. Proven results from qualified testing on certified equipment does.
One thought. Prodrive with Subaru offer their performance packs which are consumer products designed to get the most profit and reliable power out of as few products as possible. If the removal of a piece of OE equipment during fitting produced significant gains then you'd think they may consider it as part of the installation ! The same reasoning is why they don't bother changing (I avoided the word upgrade) the air filter. No gains, no point !
FWIW, I have said it time and time before, the biggest performance upgrades come from a combination of improved handling, driver technique and a reasonable balance of power to exploit these. Too much power upsets this balance, as does crap handling or a rubbish driver. Big power numbers are for 'net and pub bragging IMHO.
One thought. Prodrive with Subaru offer their performance packs which are consumer products designed to get the most profit and reliable power out of as few products as possible. If the removal of a piece of OE equipment during fitting produced significant gains then you'd think they may consider it as part of the installation ! The same reasoning is why they don't bother changing (I avoided the word upgrade) the air filter. No gains, no point !
FWIW, I have said it time and time before, the biggest performance upgrades come from a combination of improved handling, driver technique and a reasonable balance of power to exploit these. Too much power upsets this balance, as does crap handling or a rubbish driver. Big power numbers are for 'net and pub bragging IMHO.
#13
FWIW, I have said it time and time before, the biggest performance upgrades come from a combination of improved handling, driver technique and a reasonable balance of power to exploit these. Too much power upsets this balance, as does crap handling or a rubbish driver. Big power numbers are for 'net and pub bragging IMHO.
FWIW When I did it on my car it sounded better but it made no appreciable difference to the way the car drove. It felt no more powerful and it didn't spool any quicker.....just sounded better.
Anyway it is really difficult to feel a difference of 10bhp in a car that weighs approx 1200kg.
Much easier to appreciate the way a car corners and turns in just by changing the tyre pressures.
Damo
#14
i ve just took my box out of the inner wing, what is the prefered method now, leave it for air to be sucked from wing? (i have blocked off the other big hole on inner wing) or run a pipe down to the bumper somewhere?? is it 3" pipe? what have people done here??
#15
Block off al lthe holes and make a good seal around where the airbox meets the wing. On my Blobeye WRX I drilled out the little vents beside the foglight and opened up a flap beneath in the undertray to let air into the wing. On track I removed the foglight altogether to let plenty of air in. Ran fine like this for about two years until I sold it. I wouldn't start ducting with pipes as you will not only direct air, but dirt, water oil and whatever else directly into the intake box. If this overwhelms the filter then it could be bye-bye MAF, especially on a '98 with a hotwire sensor.
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