has your MAF sensor failed, if so what air filter were you using , resonater removed etc.
include the MY and how long the modded air filter was fitted before the failure

 

MY98, OE air-box and filter, rang the CE light in -04, I then bought a replacement maf from a breakers but nver replaced it as i seemed ok.
Then when RR mapping fall -07 the mapper noticed it didn't read right so we finally mounted me spare.
Since then I have removed resonator and routed air from indicator hole, and swiched to K&N panelfilter, no problems so far...

 

MY96 Apexi air cone filter, car came fitted with it. Only failed because I fitted a mini scoop bonnet vent and it sucked in rain from a heavy down pour. The scoop was only on the car for 30 mins, now binned waste of money those mini scoop vents.

Now all fixed been running perfect for about 10 months. Fitted with a new Apexi air cone filter and 2nd maf.

 

only 1 in 42 so far, and that was more to do with the hole in the bonnet letting in water onto the filter,

surely there will be a lot of posts about MAF failure soon

 

bought a my02 wrx last year in february, in october I felt the car weird and had a few fault codes on the ecu.
tried the unplug test and the car stalled... at the 2nd attempt...
replaced with a used one but haven't done the unplug test yet.
the engine light flashed again, haven't checked yet but I'm guessing it's misfire again so changed the spark plugs.
the car is stock.

 

where are all the people with failed MAF sensor

 

My maf failed 03 STI i had no idea it had gone either car was driving fine i was running K&N Typhoon

 

MAFs are a very common fault with later classics.

I replaced mine about a month after buying my car when I noticed the revs hunting quite a bit.

Standard engine.

 

As already noted, MAFs on the later classics fail a lot. Over the years, there hasn't been an obvious 'pattern' as to what breaks them except that they are very delicate & so clumsy fitting of (any) air filters or any vibration (bad fitting or unsupported air inlet) can cause them to go quicker. But they will break, hence the pre-occupation of most after-market ECUs in providing systems that don't need them! If you're stuck with one, make sure it's supported well & keep an eye on the tell-tale signs that it's beginning to fail (remember here too that a MAF may have been failing for months with one air filter but it wasn't noticed until after the change to the new one - which gets the blame - as now you're looking for problems!).

 

Hi,

can anyone tell me the normal values for the MAF tension on my STI 2002?

Thanks,

Juanjo

 

Not very helpfully, it varies depending on rpm, load & air temperature, which is why it's such a useful bit of kit when it works, but makes it rather hard to 'diagnose' if there's a problem - typically not even the ECU notices which is why it's such a problem! A common tell-tale sign that the MAF is failing is that the car feels as if it's running well - this is because it's underfuelling (compared to the usual overfuelling), which is fine until it's finished eating through Subaru's built-in 'safety overfuelling' at which point it really is underfuelling which leads to knock, temp increases & melted pistons. Oops.

 

is there anything else to look out for apart from the car running well , which (touch wood)it allways does.

with all the stories about the MAF breaking i wanted to see how true it was, there hasn't been a huge response so far

also is the MAF sensor a subaru dealer part only?

 

It's a Subaru part only, but non-dealers will sell it too - I've only ever seen MY99/00 MAFs though, but I'm not sure if that's because as I have an MY99/00 it's what I look for or that they are the only ones that need to be frequently changed (they are the least reliable of the bunch!).

 

Had to replace the MAF on my MY00 T2000 UK Classic about a year ago. As far as I could tell it had not been replaced before. The car was using a standard air box with a green panel filter in it.

 

ive recently bought a wrx 1994 been driving with faulty maf sensor engine ie now making a grinding noise when you start and turn of only lasts a second no noise when you rev no loss of power sounds like a bearing breaking down does this sound like piston melt