hey guys, having moved over from the vectra forums, ive just got my first scooby, its a 1995 jap import wrx, 61,000 miles. ill no doubt be making hundreds of posts in weeks to come, but just want to say this forum seems a good place for help / advice.

first issue i got is when i picked it up, on the whole realy pleased with it, and it was a bargain, but only issues are transmission related. when coming off the revvs, was getting a bit of a grinding noise, in most gears.? clutch?

are jap import wrx's 280bhp standard? this car is still completely standard performance wise. how can i tell if the boost / turbo is performing as it should? get a boost gauge etc? this is also the first turbo car ive had, so bear with us.

3rd) selecting 3rd gear is not easy coming straight up from second, its seems quite hard to find. now is the reverse issue synchro related ie first may also be a problem? could the 3rd gear be also related? its as if a spring or something is missing, which would normally pull the lever into the middle to go straight up to 3rd?

Also any things i should check / replace as a service? intercooler / turbo related? as theres no history with it, partly hence the bargain.

help/ suggestions most appreciated

 

95 wrx is 260ps (256bhp) as standard but don't expect it to make that.

buy a boost gauge car should hit a max boost of 0.87 bar.

3rd is a 'normal' problem on imprezas so that would need looking at (speak to David at Welcome to the API website as he is quite experienced at sorting out transmission problems.
Have a look to the right of the intercooler and you should see a dipstick that one checks the oil level of the gearbox.

Servicing tbh is just like any other car iget my 93wrx serviced twice a year oil change and a quick check of other fluids and topped up as neccessary.

if you have no history i would suggest that getting the cambelt changed

 

yea will do the cambelt then, loving the fact its easy at the front and not squashed down the side like vauxhalls.

theres a guy on you tube that shows a how to in 5 mins. is there any rollers or other bits worth replacing apaort from the acutal belt itself?

 

Few piccies here on cambelt JollyGreenMonster.co.uk

not really sure a Youtube guide is something i would use (but then i wouldn't change the cambelt myself as i'm mechanically inept )

Last time i had mine changed the tensioner had to be replaced and all of the rollers as i didn't want to take the risk (mine is a 93wrx so most of the bits are/were quite old)

 

It depends on the condition of yours.I did mine 2 months ago,and the rollers were like new,at 61000 miles. It's a good idea to change the tensioner,but again mine had no leaks and looked good so re-used it. I didn't take the rad out,just the fans,and had plenty of room.JGM has a timing set up pic on his site which is helpfull.

Mit

 

Two replies in the same minute!

 

haha, yea good work.

thats cool, he shows markings etc on the you tube video.. ill post a link when i get home, (you tube blocked from work) someone can review it, and say if its any good, or misses bits out.

then onto the grinding noise from the engine bay. when i took my foot off giving it some revs would get it for a bit, but then if i dropped the clutch it would go away. any ideas?

 

clutch thrust bearing?

 

yea thought it could be new clutch job. ok if i get some car ramps, will that make it easier to change, only question i have then, is i read you have to take the wheels off, but how can you do that if its on ramps?

ta

 

New clutch doesn't require the wheels taking off or if it does then the people who did mine somehow didn't need to

 

Haha

must thought you had to take drive shafts out of box etc? but if you can do it the other way, wont argue.. just need to find a guide for that way

 

i didnt take my wheels off to do mine, nd i did mine on ramps. but then again i was removing the gearbox and i did have to remove one of the wheels just to get one of the drive shafts out then put the wheel back on nd lower it back onto the ramp.

 

I wouldn't worry too much about the release bearing mate. Mine has been doing it about year and has got no worse.

 

To be honest,it sounds like you need a new box anyway,so do the clutch at the same time. as said, you don't need to remove the wheels.Did mine with them on,once the drive shaft roll pins are withdrawn,the shafts pull out,as you have play at the wheel end.

 

as mit said, its not compleatly necesery to remove the wheels, what you can do aswel is get everything off the box remembering the clutch fork pin! then pull back one of the cv joints and then with a mate push the gearbox the same whay that gives you enughf room to take the other drive shaft off, easy peasy!ha!

 

https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...w-updated.html

may help you Style?

 

yes matey, looks a great help, thanks very much