well i started to strip the cdb i bought few weeks back and already i have struck trouble

stripped the block and removed the pistons, so all i needed to do was split the block, started removing all the bolts all was going well, then started on the ones in the water tunnels, so i've heard these are normally rusted which mine was. the 12mm socket just kept spinning so i chapped on a 11mm socket and they started to come out.

shock horror i get to the last bolt and its just not budging. even a 11mm is just spinning and i cant get a 10mm to chap on so now i'm out of ideas??? been at it for a few hours and still no luck

anyone got any ideas?

 

Have you got any imperial sockets likes of 7/16 or have you tried single hex socket

 

tried it all mate. i'm out of ideas

 

Have you tried Molegrips or a monkey wrench??

 

Can you soak it overnight to try to loosen it ?

 

if you struggle an hours labour at an engineering company will sort it. They'll drill the top split the block and remove the bolt.

 

As above engineering shop is the best option.

 

Drill the bolt head off - carefully - leaving just the bolt thread engaged in the other half of the crankcase. Split the block and you will have your headless bolt sticking out like a stud. Take some mole grips to it and get it out.

 

can you get to the bolt if so try welding a socket to it

 

this is a good idea

 

you could try these 5 Piece Bolt Grip Set - Socket Sets, Sockets & Tool Sets - Machine Mart
or if you drill the head off you can also get stud extractors saves a lot of messing about

 

LOL I'm still in the middle of my own build and rounded crankcase bolts is about the only problem I HAVEN'T had! But I've done plenty of lateral thinking and advice-taking trying to figure out how to fix stuff that has gone wrong. As you know, the bolt head is right deep down and if you can't get a socket to lock on, you might as well forget about getting the bolt head to turn in any way. The only thing to be careful of is not accidentally drilling too far down and into the actual bolt hole. As long as you can get the head off, you're in business. I'm pretty sure that the head end of the bolt has a plain shank and the other end is threaded, i.e. it only engages on one side of the crankcase. So if you can get the head off and remove all the rest of the bolts, there's nothing else holding the crankcase together except sealant and a couple of short dowels to keep it aligned.

 

how could i manage to drill the head off the bolt? i think i'd ***** it up lol

 

in fact i dont think i would get a drill bit long enough........ because the bolt is down one of the water jackets.

 

TBH you'd be best with a pillar drill and a long HSS bit - so if you don't have those tools yourself, you need to find a local engine builder or an engineering works where for a crisp fiver, this would be a lunchtime job for an old boy on the shopfloor.

 

great news got the bolt out to see the damage!!!!

one of my rods was missing its shell bearings!!!!

so now i would like your advice guys, do i get the crank reground or do i get a new one?

what does it cost to regrind a crank roughly?

 

Loads will say you mustn't regrind. Subaru recommend it in their manual up to a certain depth, which isn't much, can't remember what exactly though. Basically if your journals look really ploughed up from bearing debris, they may already be beyond a regrind anyway.

 

not off to a good start lol

 

Defo don't bother with a regrind.
New crank and new bearings!!

 

anyone suggest where to get a new crank dirt cheap?

 

Mark @ Lateral Performance

 

2nd hand, keep your eyes out on here and a big auction site.

Get it checked out before you use it though.

 

forget all that, just get a stud extractor.

it will drill into the centre of the bolt, grip it, and unscrew it itself.

job done.

 

I think the bolt is out already

 

Good idea, but I've never ever known them to work. Maybe I'm just unlucky but I've had them set up perfectly and they've either chewed up or snapped off leaving a lovely hardened metal core in a bolt head that was already difficult enough to drill into LOL. Well I didn't LOL at the time of course!

 

Better option is to grind the head off, split the block then remove the exposed stud with a set of grips. If an easy out (assume thats what you ment) snaps then it can not be drilled out and will create more problems.