Solic or hydraulic lifters?
#2
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From: ECU Mapping - www.JollyGreenMonster.co.uk
to be sure you would need to remove a cam and then remove a bucket to see..
grove along the side and they are hydraulic.. etc
in one of those pictures it looks like they have a shim on top of the bucket but difficult to be 100%
grove along the side and they are hydraulic.. etc
in one of those pictures it looks like they have a shim on top of the bucket but difficult to be 100%
#4
thank for the replies guys, maybe i will whip out a cam today, are the buckets easy to get out?, i really dont know what i am looking for, will post some more pics later.
#7
I have not decided too completely strip this engine down yet, which leaves me hesitant to take off the cam belt, this engine is a cdb and in receiving it was told it was not running correctly, as far as i can or could tell, it had no major probs, probably was just a sensor or two at fault, i am doing my own build soon, with a 2 litre clb machined for a phase 2 crank (which i already have in the loft), so was trying to see if these heads would be suitable for this build, might just have to bite the bullet and strip the whole engine down. Is there any way of telling what the lifters are without taking out the camshafts?
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#9
How do i identify the lifters without taking the cams out?, will there always be shims on the top of the buckets if they are solid lifters?, are they easy to see, if no shims at all, are they hydraulic?
#13
I would say they are Hydraulic lifters from the pictures and the cam profiles but as Simon has said - the only way to be 100% sure is to pull a cam.
If your head codes are LH and RH - prob be Hydraulic or if you are really lucky Top Hat Inner Shims as per STi Vers 2 RA.
I dont have a picture of a Hydraulic lifter but the shims below are :
(Left to Right)
STi Vers 2 RA, STi Vers 3/4/5/6, UK '97/'98 and TT, UK '98~01 and the later Selective Buckets.
Mick
If your head codes are LH and RH - prob be Hydraulic or if you are really lucky Top Hat Inner Shims as per STi Vers 2 RA.
I dont have a picture of a Hydraulic lifter but the shims below are :
(Left to Right)
STi Vers 2 RA, STi Vers 3/4/5/6, UK '97/'98 and TT, UK '98~01 and the later Selective Buckets.
Mick
#14
Thanks mate, the bottoms of the heads do have LH and RH on them, i was led to believe the heads are from an sti 1, in your pic, as i look close up the the tops of the buckets it looks the same as the second item in from the right, with a circle in the middle about the size of a 5p.
#16
Heres a clear picture of the over bucket shim.
And yes yours do look like over buckets in your last picture, but as the rest have said, pop the cams off, 2 mins job to be sure.
Hope your well Mick? - Got my v4 heads Btw.
Baly
And yes yours do look like over buckets in your last picture, but as the rest have said, pop the cams off, 2 mins job to be sure.
Hope your well Mick? - Got my v4 heads Btw.
Baly
Last edited by STI_Baly; 19 October 2008 at 03:38 PM.
#17
Have you got a better pic of the camshaft ID letters eg - R2IN,R2EX
Baly - glad you managed to sort some proper heads out in the end
Baly - glad you managed to sort some proper heads out in the end
Last edited by merlin24; 19 October 2008 at 03:35 PM.
#18
The cambelt change is easy to, if there's any probs just give us a shout. I pinched simons (JGM's) cambelt pictures for future reference. Thanks Simon.
Thanks Mick , i'm going to set up another thread quickly headed 'V4 Heads or Not?' so i can get your confirmation on them in 10 mins should be up and running. Sorry for the hijack.
Baly
Thanks Mick , i'm going to set up another thread quickly headed 'V4 Heads or Not?' so i can get your confirmation on them in 10 mins should be up and running. Sorry for the hijack.
Baly
#20
If you have Composite head gaskets fitted and not Steel gaskets, i would still say they are WRX heads with hydraulic lifters - the cam codes and the "fat" lobe profile of the cams seem to tie in.
If you get round to pulling a cam out to check the type of Lifter,you should also see the colour code on the valve spring (under the top retainer).
Red colour code spring + Hydraulic Lifters with i 252/E 281,2,3 valve codes = WRX head.
Green colour code +Top Hat inner shims with INKO and EXKO = STi Vers 2 RA.
Now to confuse matters even more - some early Vers 2 STi's ran the same spec hydraulic heads but with Forged Dog bone pistons.
Mick
If you get round to pulling a cam out to check the type of Lifter,you should also see the colour code on the valve spring (under the top retainer).
Red colour code spring + Hydraulic Lifters with i 252/E 281,2,3 valve codes = WRX head.
Green colour code +Top Hat inner shims with INKO and EXKO = STi Vers 2 RA.
Now to confuse matters even more - some early Vers 2 STi's ran the same spec hydraulic heads but with Forged Dog bone pistons.
Mick
#21
The block is definately a closed deck, v2, or later RA, the crankshaft sensor plug position tells me this. It is not as early as a version 1, the inlet manifold and heads are not original to the block, i know this from the mechanic who put the heads on this engine, (sadly he knows nothing about subaru's), so really i am none the wiser on the heads, maybe i will just strip the engine down, i dont really know enough about trying to get the timing belt back on correctly
#24
I can ell you that the cams are std wrx ones, may be the same as uk2000.
The head castings were the same, so only way to tell is to get a cam out which isn't hard.
I'm stumped on how you can tell it is a CDB through the crank sensor position. Can you see any crosshatching on the block?
The head castings were the same, so only way to tell is to get a cam out which isn't hard.
I'm stumped on how you can tell it is a CDB through the crank sensor position. Can you see any crosshatching on the block?
#25
No mate, i cant tell that its cdb from the crank sensor position, i can tell its a cdb because of the hatching on the block, in the post above regarding the crank sensor positon, i was just saying that i was aware that on early sti's that the crank sensor itself had a little cable off of it, and the plug was mounted away from its positon, later and most classics have the plug on the crank sensor itself.
#28
Line up all your timing marks.
Slacken cam pulley bolts.
Remove timing belt tensioner/belt/idlers.
Remove cam pulleys.
Remove Inner timing cover.
Remove cam cover.
Remove Front cam cap(seal retainer).
Remove the 2 other cam caps.
Lift out cam.
Mick
Slacken cam pulley bolts.
Remove timing belt tensioner/belt/idlers.
Remove cam pulleys.
Remove Inner timing cover.
Remove cam cover.
Remove Front cam cap(seal retainer).
Remove the 2 other cam caps.
Lift out cam.
Mick
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