97WRX_TURBO

Hi Guys,

I'm new to the forum, just recently purchased my first scooby, it's a 97 WRX Estate, 110,000 miles with full servie history, bought it a few days ago, love it to bits, however just today i took it out for a drive and as i pick up in 1st gear the car violently jerks 2/3 times, the power seems to come and go, then into 2nd and it does the same before it gets going, this is getting me really down, dont wanna let it put me of Impreza's, took it to a local garage they said they cannot work on suburu's and thats what happens when you buy cars like that

Any help would be appreciated, i'm based in manchester, does anybody know of any good mechanics in manchester who could have a look at it or alternatively if anybody knows what the problem could be??

much appreciated

Taz

myblackwrx

iTrader: (1)

Well your local garage must be crap imo a subaru is not really any different to any other petrol car,yes the engine config is different and it has it's own nuances but any mechanic should be able to work on any car imo and as for the comment about that what happens when you buy cars like that is just fecking rude and ignorant.

Do you get the CEL come on (dashboard rhs says Check Engine Light)?
Does it do it when you accelerate gently or hard or doesn't matter?

97WRX_TURBO

Hi Mate,

Thx for the feedback much appreciated.

Actually the CEL light did flicker on and off a few times. It doesn't really matter, but you then have to accelerate hard to get it going otherwise it just keeps jerking.

Hope this is an easy fix

myblackwrx

iTrader: (1)

Normally the CEL would stay on if there is a fault www.jollygreenmonster.co.uk has a help page on how to manually read codes.

This is local subaru club to you SMACS Subaru Club, South Manchester And Cheshire Scooby's so they may know good garages to use or actually help you.

97WRX_TURBO

Hi,

well just had a diagnostic done on the car, its thrown up the trouble code 23, aparently its the MAF Sensor, although the person said it could also be the wiring or ECM but most likely to be the MAF Sensor. Quoted me £285 + vat + fitting for a new one.

Anybody had this code 23 problem before? Is it definately the MAF Sensor as i dont want to spend that much money and find out it was something else.

Also where can these be sourced cheaper? any input would be great....

97WRX_TURBO

just seen one on ebay:

Subaru Impreza WRX MAF (mass air flow) Sensor on eBay, also, Subaru, Car Parts, Cars, Parts Vehicles (end time 06-Nov-08 19:35:58 GMT)

seems ok, any reccomendations?

Glowplug

iTrader: (8)

Yeah 23 is MAF you can check all the code on JGM's site in the previous post.
There are a few on fleabay just make sure it the right one

Glowplug

iTrader: (8)

Arrrrrr ya beat me to it

97WRX_TURBO

The part number for my MAF sensor is:

22680LL280

Seen one on ebay from exactly the same car but part number is :

22680AA280

will it be ok? or do the part number have to match?

RAPID STI

iTrader: (4)

I would buy a new one, these MAF's are fragile so the used you buy may broke or on the way out.

bruce

iTrader: (5)

My my97wrx used to do that sometimes when in standard form, in my case it was the boost control solenoid sticking. A clean out with carb cleaner sorted it. Does the car have any mods like decat or induction kit?

97WRX_TURBO

Just bought myself replacment MAF sensor, the mechanic said this would be an hours work to replace and fit so would charge labour accordingly, is this something that can be done yourself? Looks pritty simple to fit, not much involved, anybody ever fitted one?

Yes car has an induction kit, was already fitted when i bought the vehicle, place where i got the new MAF sensor told me to remove the induction kit as it reduces the life time of the MAF because all the oil gets onto them.

Tazz Kill Er

MAF Sensor is very easy to replace, there is a lot of information on here about induction kits, some good some bad, i think the idea that oil from the induction kit filter can damage the maf sensor is sound, as such i would switch back to a standard airbox with a decent panel filter in, if as you say its a MY97 then it will not be mappable to take full advantage of and induction kit anyway.

Welcome to scoobynet BTW.

Glowplug

iTrader: (8)

Totally agree, piece of p*ss diy and get standard air box on with green on K&N panel, it has been proved in the past that induction kits can decrease bhp in some cases over a standard box and good panel. Read here https://www.scoobynet.com/scoobynet-...ge-1-a-13.html

xX Domino Xx

^^^ definitely. easy to do yourself bud and would recommend switching back to a standard airbox. only want to change to an induction kit if youre fitting a fmic

97WRX_TURBO

If i was to change the MAF sensor myself would this solve the problem and put the CEL off. Or would i need to get it done from a specialist and get the diagnostics on it again to reset it after fitting the ne MAF??

Also does the induction kit trigger the CEL as i dont have a standard box as of yet, so would be running this for a while until i get one.

myblackwrx

iTrader: (1)

change MAF,reset the ecu.
The induction kit doesn't trigger the CEL the actual MAF does,the MAF is sensitive to oil on an IK and vibration, so if the kit flops about and is oiled it's not helping.

97WRX_TURBO

Thx for the info....how would you reset the ECU after fitting the new MAF? Can it be done myself?

myblackwrx

iTrader: (1)

look at post 4 (jollygreenmonster link) as it has a how to reset the ecu

97WRX_TURBO

cant seem to open the technical advice on JGM website......

Could i please indulge on somebody's kindness to copy and paste on here how to reset the ECU.......Thx

myblackwrx

iTrader: (1)

Scoobypedia | Trusted knowledge for everything Subaru | Scoobypedia / Scoobypedia has the same info under ecu

Classic (JECS) ECU Reset
Ensure engine is at normal operating temperature, turn engine off
Locate the two ECU connectors, located under the steering column and consist of a black plastic male and female connector, and a green male female connector
With the ignition OFF connect black to black and green to green.
Turn on ignition, do not start the engine, depress the accelerator pedal to full throttle, then return it to the half-throttle position and hold for a few seconds, and then release
Engine Check lamp turns on
Start engine and then drive for at least one minute, keeping road speed above 11 Km/h.
ECU is now re-set.
At this point the check engine light should start to flash the all clear signal (steady 1/2 second interval flashes). If the check engine light does not flash, or indicates some other sequence, there is a fault present in the system, and should be professionally checked for necessary repairs.
Stop the car and turn off the engine.
Disconnect the black and green connectors.
Job complete

97WRX_TURBO

Just tried to remove the old MAF sensor, can anybody tell me, the MAF is connected with one socket only, does this just unplug or do you have to un-screw the whole connector out from the old MAF? Tried to un-plug it but it seems quite stiff cant get it to un-plug.

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Yeah you have to pull the electrical connector apart. I think there's a little moulded sprung plastic clasp arm... Hold it down with a small screwdriver, whilst pulling on the main connector. You may have to employ s bit of a side by side wiggling motion to tease it out. These types of connectors can be a real pain to free...

StickyMicky

the 97-98 mafs are NOT FRAGILE

they are the most robust ones you could imagine from a subaru

you may be able to simply clean it up with a cotton bud and some tar and glue remover (i did mine 5 years ago)
mine did develop a fault where the plug to circuit join cracked, i cut the top off mine and resoldered it and its still going strong (125k miles now)


you will need the one with the same part numbers, they are not swapable in my experiance

the uk cars tended to have the smaller size one and the imports had a larger 90mm one, fitting the wrong one is a bad idea without having it remapped (been there and done that )