Timing Belt Change - What else to get done at same time? water pump? oil pump? etc.
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Timing Belt Change - What else to get done at same time? water pump? oil pump? etc.
ok bit of bad news..
looking to upgrade my turbo and was just looking through service history and noticed timing belt done in 2003.. which means its about time i should get it done now asap.
since its gerring changed, what else gets done at same time or worth getting done? modified or uprated oil pumpfrom api? waterpump etc?
i best et this all done before turbo now
so what else can i access at same time?
cheers
looking to upgrade my turbo and was just looking through service history and noticed timing belt done in 2003.. which means its about time i should get it done now asap.
since its gerring changed, what else gets done at same time or worth getting done? modified or uprated oil pumpfrom api? waterpump etc?
i best et this all done before turbo now
so what else can i access at same time?
cheers
#2
make, model, age, mileage?
well its all on how much money you want to spend.
you cn change, oil pump, water pump, pulleys, tensioner, idler pulleys.
good idea for peace of mind i suppose. but people get alarmed and fit all these bits then put a £40 timing belt on which defeats the purpose if you ask me.
£150 ish for oil pump
£50ish water pump
£100 all the idler pulleys
£150ish for tensioner depending on what type
belt depends on which one you fit
well its all on how much money you want to spend.
you cn change, oil pump, water pump, pulleys, tensioner, idler pulleys.
good idea for peace of mind i suppose. but people get alarmed and fit all these bits then put a £40 timing belt on which defeats the purpose if you ask me.
£150 ish for oil pump
£50ish water pump
£100 all the idler pulleys
£150ish for tensioner depending on what type
belt depends on which one you fit
#3
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version 6 sti import
and i think ill do as much as i can and be safe coz ive done none of them since having the car.. so be safe.
actually what are priorities or can cause problems or most likely to have faults?
and i think ill do as much as i can and be safe coz ive done none of them since having the car.. so be safe.
actually what are priorities or can cause problems or most likely to have faults?
Last edited by eggy790; 26 November 2008 at 09:50 PM.
#4
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I personally would do the water pump, only about £30. If you need a new tensionser your looking around £100, give Mark a call at Lateral. You can go for the older type which is reckoned to be better.
as for the timing belt, it doesnt matter on the cost, more expensive doesnt mean better, as long as it is for your car then it should be fine
as for the timing belt, it doesnt matter on the cost, more expensive doesnt mean better, as long as it is for your car then it should be fine
#6
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Just bought mine from GGR £29.91 incl VAT. If GGR put them on their cars (as it says on the website) then thats a pretty decent endorsement. Its also the cheapest I could find.
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ok bit of bad news..
looking to upgrade my turbo and was just looking through service history and noticed timing belt done in 2003.. which means its about time i should get it done now asap.
since its gerring changed, what else gets done at same time or worth getting done? modified or uprated oil pumpfrom api? waterpump etc?
i best et this all done before turbo now
so what else can i access at same time?
cheers
looking to upgrade my turbo and was just looking through service history and noticed timing belt done in 2003.. which means its about time i should get it done now asap.
since its gerring changed, what else gets done at same time or worth getting done? modified or uprated oil pumpfrom api? waterpump etc?
i best et this all done before turbo now
so what else can i access at same time?
cheers
tensioner and advise [ one in 5 NEEDS changing ] total cost:
£320.00 + VAT [ 15% from Monday ] = £368.00
Plus a tensioner at £99.00 + VAT if necessary.
Water pumps last forever and a genuine Subaru one from us is £60.00 should you need one, but we rarely change them unless they leak.
David APi
Agents for:
Simtek, the most exciting new Ecu for years
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#9
as for the re mark about timing belts, you can't pay primark prices and expect m&s quality.
an extra hundred quid on a timing belt could save you 2k on an enigne re build.
cheap timing belts are cheap for a reason. its not a slow car you are running.
an extra hundred quid on a timing belt could save you 2k on an enigne re build.
cheap timing belts are cheap for a reason. its not a slow car you are running.
#10
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Not that I'm arguing with you here, but would you put a titanium door handle on your bathroom cabinet? IF the cheap belt is fit for the job then why spend another hundred quid on a kevlar effort just because its 'better'. I personally don't buy in to the fact that you have to pay for quality - much of the time its true but much of the time your being ripped off, a walk aroudn a John Lewis store is all thats needed to realise this. As always buyer beware, GGR are well enough regarded for me to have faith in what they sell (as are APi on this forum).
#12
thats just a no brainer answer. a bathroom cabinet ain't a 300bhp impreza that does about 160mph is it.
people that fix imprezas on a budget put cheap after market parts on.
eg i've just spent 4k on a 2.5 conv why on earth would i put a £30 timing belt on. rcm recommended a subaru sti import devision belt £165
lets make things realistic here you wouldn't fit a set of stunners (tires) to your car and expect the same grip as a yokohama or such like.
its the same thing with timing belts.
but anyway im not really worried what belt you fit as its not my car you can pay for the rebuild.
people that fix imprezas on a budget put cheap after market parts on.
eg i've just spent 4k on a 2.5 conv why on earth would i put a £30 timing belt on. rcm recommended a subaru sti import devision belt £165
lets make things realistic here you wouldn't fit a set of stunners (tires) to your car and expect the same grip as a yokohama or such like.
its the same thing with timing belts.
but anyway im not really worried what belt you fit as its not my car you can pay for the rebuild.
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What? you mean some people DON'T have titanium door handles? What is the world coming to??
ALL as in ALL cam belts are made by Gates Rubber co which is/was a subsidiary of GoodYear last time I heard.
David APi
ALL as in ALL cam belts are made by Gates Rubber co which is/was a subsidiary of GoodYear last time I heard.
David APi
#14
ok thats not my point. one company can make the same thing at a totally different spec.
whys one timing belt £30 and one £165 or such like.
there obviously not the complete same belt. one's obviously a better belt thats what im trying to say.
whys one timing belt £30 and one £165 or such like.
there obviously not the complete same belt. one's obviously a better belt thats what im trying to say.
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Fuji will be paying NOTHING for their OE belts. IM will be just pricing it to suit their own needs.
I am sure that there are better or lower grade belts out there. My point is that Gates make them and Gates are good.
It's not as if they are being made by Czechoslovakian peasants, in a burned out church, out of old Russian tyres.
David
I am sure that there are better or lower grade belts out there. My point is that Gates make them and Gates are good.
It's not as if they are being made by Czechoslovakian peasants, in a burned out church, out of old Russian tyres.
David
#17
stick to genuine and get the benefit of 3 yrs or 60k miles warranty and if the belt did break the rebuild should be covered.
use a non genuine and you get what you pay for.
use a non genuine and you get what you pay for.
#19
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If you came here we would do the cam belt, modded oil pump, and check the
tensioner and advise [ one in 5 NEEDS changing ] total cost:
£320.00 + VAT [ 15% from Monday ] = £368.00
Plus a tensioner at £99.00 + VAT if necessary.
Water pumps last forever and a genuine Subaru one from us is £60.00 should you need one, but we rarely change them unless they leak.
David APi
tensioner and advise [ one in 5 NEEDS changing ] total cost:
£320.00 + VAT [ 15% from Monday ] = £368.00
Plus a tensioner at £99.00 + VAT if necessary.
Water pumps last forever and a genuine Subaru one from us is £60.00 should you need one, but we rarely change them unless they leak.
David APi
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Get the front Crank seal changed if this the second cambelt change.. they seem to last about 8years / 90k miles.. part is a few pound and probably 30minutes to change once cambelt is off, also the cam seals checked.
Simon
Simon
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We once had a duff short motor from them, that failed as soon as it started up, where some turkey had forgotten to tighten up a big end cap.
I had to pay the garage in Stafford's labour to change it. I had to rebuild the engine at my own cost, I had to pay for a hire car whilst the owner was inconvenieced, I had to transport the engine to and from Stafford.
Despite agreeing that the unit was faulty on day one - it took 9 months for IM to grudgingly allow me a credit for the cost of the short motor first time around.
Out of pocket by about a grand.
Unimpressed? you betcha.
David APi
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thanks for all the advice
and david i would take you up on your offer but your like 2hour drive away.
ill try richard henry motorsport out, they onli 10 mins away from me
and david i would take you up on your offer but your like 2hour drive away.
ill try richard henry motorsport out, they onli 10 mins away from me
#24
And are the OE Dayco belts not recomended then? Ive always used Gates in the past for other cars, normally family members cars or run arounds as I know they are the best from the motor factors but when I started using these performance cars like GT4's and GTRs I always got oe belts, I never had more than 50hp over OE bar one car and never had any problems.
Most people on here I reckon arent "experts" as sarcasticly mentioned above, the very fact they spend time typing about there cars on a forum would suggest that take more than a healthy interest in their cars. I doubt many people on here roll upto Halfrauds and walk out happily with a Champion Timing belt!!
I digress..........
So which is it then, Dayco or Gates, General Concenses?
Most people on here I reckon arent "experts" as sarcasticly mentioned above, the very fact they spend time typing about there cars on a forum would suggest that take more than a healthy interest in their cars. I doubt many people on here roll upto Halfrauds and walk out happily with a Champion Timing belt!!
I digress..........
So which is it then, Dayco or Gates, General Concenses?
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And are the OE Dayco belts not recomended then? Ive always used Gates in the past for other cars, normally family members cars or run arounds as I know they are the best from the motor factors but when I started using these performance cars like GT4's and GTRs I always got oe belts, I never had more than 50hp over OE bar one car and never had any problems.
Most people on here I reckon arent "experts" as sarcasticly mentioned above, the very fact they spend time typing about there cars on a forum would suggest that take more than a healthy interest in their cars. I doubt many people on here roll upto Halfrauds and walk out happily with a Champion Timing belt!!
I digress..........
So which is it then, Dayco or Gates, General Concenses?
Most people on here I reckon arent "experts" as sarcasticly mentioned above, the very fact they spend time typing about there cars on a forum would suggest that take more than a healthy interest in their cars. I doubt many people on here roll upto Halfrauds and walk out happily with a Champion Timing belt!!
I digress..........
So which is it then, Dayco or Gates, General Concenses?
David APi
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you will probably need a puller to get the crank pulley off.. then you may need to tap the two holes in the cambelt crank pulley to then allow a puller to remove..
drill two small holes in the crank seal being very careful and then use two long self tapping screws with the tips blunted and screw them into the holes and the seal will slowly wind out when the screws bottom out.. be very careful not to mark the crank or block surfaces.
I tend to use a tiny tiny bit of silcone sealant on ther outside of the new seal.
Simon
drill two small holes in the crank seal being very careful and then use two long self tapping screws with the tips blunted and screw them into the holes and the seal will slowly wind out when the screws bottom out.. be very careful not to mark the crank or block surfaces.
I tend to use a tiny tiny bit of silcone sealant on ther outside of the new seal.
Simon
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At 90,000 miles I wouldn't just change the crank seal - especially if it isn't leaking - BUT I would take the opportunity to fit a modified oil pump complete.
The rear cover retaining screws have a habit of coming loose and weakening the oil pressure They are rarley loose at first cam belt change but quite often are by the second cam belt change.
For the sake of the cost of an exchange pump from us - do it right first time.
Call me if you wish David APi
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The rear cover retaining screws have a habit of coming loose and weakening the oil pressure They are rarley loose at first cam belt change but quite often are by the second cam belt change.
For the sake of the cost of an exchange pump from us - do it right first time.
Call me if you wish David APi
Our new rolling road is ready to roll.
Agents for:
Simtek, the most exciting new Ecu for years
Buddy Club exhausts
Hayward & Scott exhausts
Carbonetics clutches
BC suspension
Samco hose kits
Hybrid front mount intercooler kits
AP Racing brakes and clutches
Performance friction products
And of course; the well known APi Performance Exedy organic clutch
Welcome to the API website
www.apiimpreza.com
01926 614333