instructions say 2 only tighten them hand tight into the block.

yet they have allan key fittment at top of stud.

anyone help on this 1.

do i hand tight and nip or just hand tight and fit heads so the torque stretches the bolts tight

 

I just fitted them hand tight. If one gets stuck, and is still sticking out further than the rest, then i'd use an allen key to help it in.
As you say, when fitting the heads it will torque them up correctly.

Mit

 

When I was fitting mine I had advice from several engine builders that they need more than 'hand tight'. Put the moly lube on and do them up as tight as you can with an allen key. It's an imperial size I can't remember what, but they apparently have been known to loosen off if only put in hand tight.

 

Very interesting as i was always under the impression these were supposed to be tightened with the Allen key...

Additional clarification on this would be nice inc torque info on the studs into the block if possible/needed?

Baly

 

I just followed the instructions, if silent running has had advise from engine builders to tighten them in then i'd follow his advise.
I had no problems, but don't have the car now.

 

Cylinder head torque settings??

TORQUE SETTING (heads, crank, bearings ect)

 

I think it may be a confusion over the 'hand tight' thing. To me and probably many others, it means, using no tools at all, just until the fastener stops turning using fingers alone. But then you could take it to mean hand tight with an allen key. Which is what I did.

 

iv just finshed putting heads on and tighening with alan key, nipped up, and all is ok now.
happy now, except 2 cam shell bolts snapped when being tightened to 20 nm, do both other cams and the last 1 went, got one out, other is a bit stiff, drill and small extractors i thinks

 

just had the very same thing happen to me to snapped 2 bolts on the same cam shaft cap

 

its a mare, and only 20nm, never mind, drill em out

 

Thanks for the earlier post Joz....

Handy info there.