bigdankmx

iTrader: (6)

hi people,
this is my first post
i have a my95 wrx that i had to get a recon wrx engine from smr engines
paid £900 and it lasted for a month and the head gasket went
engine was warrented so sent it back
paid another £300 for a v2 sti engine
fitted it and everything ok then last week it started blowing cold air and bubbles coming up through the cooling system
does anyone know why this is happened twice
thanx

M535I

you sure you havent got an air lock ? are you using any water ? if so how much ?

bigdankmx

iTrader: (6)

not using any water and filled it with coolant through turbo water inlet then squeezed all pipes till there were no air bubbles coming out,even took out the thermostat incase it was sticking,
thought, can a faulty fpr(low pressure) cause this
have another engine on the way so i dont want this to happen again
thanks

RedScoob

I think the bleed procedure is to remove the coolant reservoir cap (by the powersteering) and run the engine up to operating temp with the cap off with the heater on full... But that's from memory.
If the heater is blowing cold air, that could mean that no water is getting to the matrix, which is bad. What did the temperature gauge show?
Just out of interest, did you change the ECU with the engine?

bigdankmx

iTrader: (6)

i am running with a scoobyecu
and i've tried numerous ways to fill and bleed the cooling sytem
once i let it idle and it cmes up to temp i have a heater but as soon i take it out on the road off boost(or on boost) the heater goes
also getting bubbles up through the overflow tank and cooling sytem has too much pressure(samcos r solid)

bigdankmx

iTrader: (6)

my temp stays normal then when i go out in it it starts to rises upto 105
i also have another water temp gauge taking a reading from the top rad hoses and that climbs rapidly

dj219957

You could try this mate to eliminate air block.


set heater controls to max heat and cabin/window setting.
take off bottom rad hose and drain system.
fit bottom hose.
take the top rad hose off.
With a bit of garden hose and a funnel fill the rad to the brim SLOWLEY.
Fill the block to the brim SLOWLEY.
Connect top rad hose and fill header tank to brim.
Top up water level bottle by inner wing.
Use 50% water/coolant mix.

M535I

does it overheat ?
have you tried new thermostat , my old wrx wouldnt clear its airlock for 3 hour's once i changed a radiator .

bigdankmx

iTrader: (6)

already tried a new thermo
also getting emulsified oil on the dipstick and oil cap
with it getting bubbles up through the cooling system and pressurised hoses surely that means that a head gasket is away or a crack in one of the head
answers please as i dont want this to my new engine
thanks

MARCUSF

My V2 rally car suffered from similar symptoms, it was suffering from bubbles coming back through the cooling system to the point where it was blowing the water back out of the overflow, the samco hoses were solid with the pressure build up and when we fitted a new pressure cap on the header tank the pressure built that much that it actually split the header tank. We assumed it was a head gasket problem but when we sent the heads away it turned out the problem was a cracked head.

My guess would be you have been a victim of extreme bad luck, all you can do is make sure you bleed the system properly, your tank/cap/stat/rad/fans etc are all fine and try again.

bigdankmx

iTrader: (6)

marcusf,thats the same thing that happened to me,but do u think a faulty fpr can contributit towards it

chrisUK300

iTrader: (10)

Is your engine supplier trying to get out of a warranty claim by saying you have a faulty FPR? Never heard of a faulty FPR causing head gasket failure
Best thing to do is get to local garage and have a sniffer test done

bigdankmx

iTrader: (6)

allready hyad a sniffer test and the liquid told me that there are

combustion gasses in the coolant

M535I

something terminal mate you want to check every thing mate as what ever made your first engine suffer this might have contributed to this i.e semi blocked rad /pipes total strip down and clean or replace mate , check the group buy on double flow alloy radiators aswelll .

bigdankmx

iTrader: (6)

any body else got opinions

jaytc2003

iTrader: (1)

lets look at it this way

I assume your original went pop? How ?

Replacement engine has gone pop (headgasket)

second replacment has done the same (headgasket)

Seems to be a common thing going on here, as others above have said CHECK your coolant system, flush it, check all hoses, check your stat, on the replacement engine check the water pump (will mean changing the timing belt but do it)

Now you could just be very very unlucky, but to me and others who have posted there is something wrong elsewhere that is contributing to these failures

bigdankmx

iTrader: (6)

my original engine had big end failure
can the turbo fail by loosig boost pressure throgh the turbo water jacket

jaytc2003

iTrader: (1)

I suppose anything is possible but if that happened I imagine you would know about it as

are you having boosting issues? (when replacement engine was okay?)

on the replacement engine did you change turbo or was it the original. Was the oil lines changed / cleaned?

bigdankmx

iTrader: (6)

hi,davin at api
,can u send some light on this,
i'm desperate

APIDavid

iTrader: (4)

Not sure I know of SMR engines, Can any one on here vouch for them ??

One thing is for sure it's nothing to do with the fpr.

Head gasket would be an obvious conclusion, Air lock is another.

Some cars can be troublesome with air locks but it is not common. We set the heater on screen, turn to full hot and fill the coolant in through the header tank [ NOT the expansion tank by the battery ] .

We allow the engine to come up to temperature, with a thermostat fitted, and simply keep squeezing the top and bottom hoses and then top up as required.

The heater should be running hot and STAY HOT.

Is the water pump the same one for all three engines or has it been changed over on every fit job? I expect it comes with the engine as it is a belt off job to change.

My gut feeling is blown head gasket or gaskets. You should be talking to SMR about this. If it was one of our engines here, we'd have the car in and see what is going on. BUT in our case it would be unlikely to be the head gaskets, we're rather careful in that area.

Good Luck, David APi

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bigdankmx

iTrader: (6)

BTTP

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Back to the pop?... Alcoholics Anonymous have nothing on you.

bigdankmx

iTrader: (6)

BTTT

RedScoob

I don't know if it counts for anything, but I bought a recon V2 WRX engine from SMR around 2 years ago and the unit has been faultless.

bigdankmx

iTrader: (6)

spoke to duncan at hypertech in b/bridge,
he suggested checkig my injector,
then a rolling to check my fueling and at no extra putting a set of det cans to check 4 det
any opinions r welcome
can sent some light on this,
any advice Jelly Green Monster

bigdankmx

iTrader: (6)

BTTT

bigdankmx

iTrader: (6)

bttt

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Is that deliberate? lol

STI_Baly

iTrader: (23)

I bought a gearbox off SMR for my BMW about a year ago.....and all was good with the item. Came attached with a quality card stating rations, syncros, forks etc etc had been checked. Box was also painted.

I know the above means nothing, a piece of paper and some paint can be done for under £30. But the gearbox was running good as until i sold it 2 months ago.

Does sound like a head gasket to me....or even worse could be a liner.....

"spoke to duncan at hypertech in b/bridge,
he suggested checkig my injector," A faulty injector or faulty spark plug can also lead to major issues as well as DET (the killer), so as suggested by Duncan i would start diagnosing the above before i personally put another engine in mine.

Good Luck