mje_wrx

iTrader: (6)

as above. tryed 2 drill out and extract by no joy, so drilled bolt fully out, re tapped hole size bigger but the bolts wont torque just keep ripping the threads. so had 2 go 1 bigger again which meant drilling shell slightly, but it still wont torque. options are : -

heli coils

or drill straight through and seal bolt in and git small nut other side, shells that cover oil seal. i cant see it being a problem, wont interfere with anything.

any suggestions

Tucker82

iTrader: (7)

oh dear. I did the exact same thing on my re-build mate. Heli Coiled (got a mate to do it) and thought all was good. Engine back in - cranking it round to get oil in the galleys and the cam cap shifted minimal amount, ripped into the shaft itself, ceased and stopped all cam shafts from spinning. Crank ripped through the belt. New heads and a new belt... plus engine out and stripped down again.. not nice! Risky IMHO

Probably not what you want to hear - sorry

mje_wrx

iTrader: (6)

not buying a new head, its the v4. il need to make sure there is no play in the bolt goign through the shell and into and head, so it cant move

mje_wrx

iTrader: (6)

other option, liquid metal, fill hole and redrill and buy new shell?????

Lateral Performance

iTrader: (20)

If you are stripping the threads, even after having re threading it, I would take a look at what torque you're using, as they need very little.

Helicoil, or time-sert.

mje_wrx

iTrader: (6)

20nm i been attempting to get. may have to go one bigger, not gonna re drill shell.

172sport

iTrader: (6)

remember there are 2 size bolts 8mm and 6mm, they are differing torques..............

mje_wrx

iTrader: (6)

whats the 6mm torque settings, they r the once over the camshaft oil seals and the ones that broke.

SSCJAY

You only need 10 NM on the M6 bolts

Tucker82

iTrader: (7)

172sport

iTrader: (6)

school boy error.............

steveorangewrx

Time-sert it. Then you can torque it to 300nm to teach it a lesson!

mje_wrx

iTrader: (6)

brillaint, created a massive problem now due 2 my dumb ness.

do u think the shell is ok 2 be drilled slightly so i can fit the correct bolt into the head. just retapped it to 3/8 and have brillaint treads in head now. could change it to m10 if needed, but id rather buy a 3/8 bolt

mje_wrx

iTrader: (6)

more like impreza manual error, says tighten all to 20nm, well pi$$ed off now. with the time serts, how big dooes the hole the threads are going into need 2 be.

Tucker82

iTrader: (7)

same mistake I made mate - manual says 20nm. I snapped 2 aswell! good luck, hope you get it sorted.

steveorangewrx

Personaly I would look at a time-sert before drilling the cap. The bolt hole through the cap is that size for a reason! I dont know the outer diameter of the sert you need but they must have a webste detailing this? I have used them before and they are super dooper.

mje_wrx

iTrader: (6)

well iv just tapped hole to m10 x 1.5

so what time sert do i need and can i get a time sert that fits in my m10 hole and gives me threads of a 8mm or 6mm bolt.??

if that makes sense. so i can fit possibly a original bolt in a much bigger hole?

ausmatt

Hi,
Was reading your problem, I would definatly quick metal/devcon the hole and start again. I am a fitter and have done this many times on alloy and steel, you will get a much better job, will be stronger than new. Use your cap to center the hole to start you off and then remove and finish drilling.
Oh and if there is any damage to the running surface of the cam bearing I would replace it, also you have to remember that if you have thinned the shell at all it will create a hot spot if not contacting the alloy behind it. Depends on the damage, you will have to make that call.
Just my two cents.
Matt.

mje_wrx

iTrader: (6)

what u mean hot spot. iv drilled shell approx 1mm over, but may need 2 push it more, :S i was thinking of liquid metal and redrill. but the bolt is only 10nm, not alot of pessure on it by seems of torque

mje_wrx

iTrader: (6)

can i buy a new shell???

Lateral Performance

iTrader: (20)

Please can I suggest you give this to a specialist who can rectify the issue correctly.

It really shouldn't cost much, and if you get this wrong, and if the cap comes free, it will most likely cost you the engine.

mje_wrx

iTrader: (6)

yeh, thast what im doing, its going to a local engineering firm, who r going to ali weld hole, re drill and tap to original sizes for original bolts.

now all i need is a rhd exhaust end shell. cant get them from subaru.

any1 got one for sale??

dazdavies

iTrader: (22)

Is it wise doing that, I thought the caps were paired with the head?

What would be the consequences of using a mismatched set?

Mark?

mje_wrx

iTrader: (6)

spoke 2 subaru, not matched but only make 1 set per head. no spares.

steveorangewrx

I might have a spare, I will have a look when I go to my store later and post it on here.
You can google race hill motorsport in launston in cornwall for their number and speak to John, he will have one and post it to you.
I will check however and let you know.

mje_wrx

iTrader: (6)

got a shell, some1 on here is sending it to me, all i need now is to get hole in heads corect. weld and re tap is the way i think

nampahc01

same thing happened to me with my v3 heads. but it was a specialist garage that deals in subarus that did it. needless to say i was pissed off when i stripped it to whack in my 2.5 conv and found all 4 were stripped after they did head gaskets to my ej20.

i used time sert's from wurth. used to be a mechanic so i have contacts. yes as above these things are the best things since sliced bread. but about 100 quid for a set

172sport

iTrader: (6)

Its not the end of the world, its and easy fix TBH if you have the correct equipment/skills.