hi,drove my my99 uk turbo wagon today and car cut out at a junction, then another couple junctions it very nearly cut out,the idle is normally steady but even now on tick over it will drop nearly to the point of cutting out.other than that it drives fine.i did an ecu check and no fault was registered. where do i start? maf? icv? spark plugs etc etc etc??????? any help would be great cause im pulling my hair out. cheers scoobynetters!

 

Sounds like maf to me. On a my99 car its worth changing just for the piece of mind.

 

but do i really want to do that when im not 100% sure that it is the maf? and also surely it would have registered a fault?

 

that makes 2 of us

 

anyone??????? really annoying,just checked for a hose leek between intercooler and turbo,all is fine.if i build the revs up in any gear to 4k ish if i dip the clutch the revs drop right down to 0.1k,sometimes it stalls and other times it holds on and picks back up to where it should be! surely someone on here as experienced this before! pls help.

 

https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...lems-revs.html

Try the suggestions

 

maf sensor, get a new one and the memory cleared on the ecu, i'm sure that will fix it!

 

thanks mate,but why hasnt it registered a fault? dont want to pay for maf on the off chance if u catch my drift.

 

and could it not be icv? if so why hasnt that registered a fault?

 

Imo it will only register a fault if it's completely knackered.

 

I had this exactly on my MY00. It was the MAF. You will find other possibilities such as ICV by doing a search on here, but get it checked asap. If it is the MAF you could cause serious damage by doing nothing. Mine cost £90 from subaru dealer.
dnc

 

btw mine did not register a fault either.
dnc

 

thanks for that,anyone know where the maf is located under the bonnet? easy to change?

 

it's connected to your airbox/induction kit and has an electrical plug connected to it.
not sure on late model classics but takes about 5-10 mins to change
Have you tried the stalling test (car running you unplug maf ,if maf good car stalls)?

 

no i havent done that test,thanks mate,will try 2morrow. cheers for the info.if car does not stall with the plug disconnected does that mean maf is ok?

 

If it is MAF and you have to buy one make sure they don't try to flog you the housing aswell as I think that then bumps cost to £200 or so, you will just need the sensor itself. Had mine fitted by dealer but would imagine it just screws in lol.
dnc

 

cheers dnc,if i do the disconnect maf plug test,if car stalls maf is f***ed,if it dosent stall im assuming it means maf is ok?

 

Sorry
MAF good = car stalls
MAF bad =car will still run probably
Not a foolproof test though

(not other way round DOH!)
Just edited previous post.

 

ok r there any other tests i can do to prove it is the maf and not the icv or anything else?

 

Test the MAF voltage.

 

thanks people! are idle/rev problems commonly caused by maf or icv on a 99 uk turbo? heard that 99-00 uk turbo suffers with maf? what is the probability of maf sensor?

 

i had a similar problem try the idle adjuster that fixed my issue with car idleing.

 

idle adjuster???????

 

ok so the MAF stays in its place but with the plug taken off? is that how the test is done? the actuall maf does not need removing?

 

maf stays in place just unplug it.


99greenwagon the ICV can be adjusted by loosening the screws then roating beige bit (the solenoid) to get 800-900rpm but personally i wouldn't mess with it.

 

unless his car relates to his username

 

can you not adjust them on later models then?
i do admit not knowing much about the later classics.

 

dont think ill be messing about like that somehow! but cheers anyway!

 

Definately not i was just answering your query on 'idle adjuster'

 

you can either check the maf voltage and confirm or just change the maf anyway (as at least you'll know it's done and right)

They don't seem to throw a check engine code.

Remember to reset the ecu after changing the maf though.

And as stated you can just get the maf sensor itself. Have a search for part no. on here or send me a PM tomorrow and I'll find it for you (have a box somewhere) They are held in by 2 tamper proof torx bolts and (if it's on the original maf) you'll ahve to break the small tabs off inside the torx bolts with a small screwdriver or similar and then undo. It may well have been changed before though.