splitting engine&box clutch fork??
#1
![Default](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/icons/icon1.gif)
ime ready to take engine out but can any1 tell me how u remove clutch fork as somebody told me u av to remove this to split engine and box
![Confused](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/confused.gif)
#2
![Default](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Copied from post by 911 a few years ago which helped me out alot when removing my gearbox so you will not need all these instructions as you are removing the engine
Hope 911 doesn't mind
Jack car up very high and level, especially if you are taking the box right away from the car.
Drain oil, remove propshaft centre bearing and pull out of box.
Remove d/p to gearbox bolts (2 of them). Drift out the roll pins that hold the gear shift linkage to the box selector shaft
Remove TMIC, starter motor, clutch slave cylinder and all wires off the box to various parts of the engine bay.
Just by the starter motor location you must find a 20mm dia cover screw with a hex socket in it and unscrew/remove it.
Find a 6mm threaded bolt, about 50mm long. Screw it into the end of the clutch arm pivot shaft exposed when you removed the above cover. Pull (hard maybe) on the bolt and the lond shaft will pull through abd the clutch arm will go loose.
Undo all 4 bolts that hold the bell housing to the engine. Nothing will move as the 2 dowels that locate the part together will be corroded so tight you will think it is all welded together. Apply WD40 on the dowels.
You need to pull the front driveshafts out now. Remove the lower ball joints on each side of the front suspension, surprisingly easy! Get to the CV joint on the shaft both sides and drift out the scroll pins (very tight). Pull each hub assembly hard and the shaft will pull out of the box no probs.
That's the EASY bit done![Norty](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/norty.gif)
You MUST have a proper or very very good jack to take the weight of the transmission, it is seriously heavy. Remove the gearbox cross member after placing the support under the box, very close to the bell housing; you have to split the bell housing off the engine by brute force, cursing, and any means you can.
Once free (mine first took 2 whole hours) the box will slide back about 80mm to freedom and will try to fall off the jack!
I bought a Draper transmission jack, utterly invaluable.
Removal is not the reverse of the above.
You need to free the clutch thrust bearing off the clip in the clutch cover. Removed, place the bearing onto the gearbox input shaft sleeve, thread the clutch release arm onto it, and feed in the pivot pin (use coppa slip on re assy) and the cover to finish it off.
When the box is back on and bolted tight, grab the exposed clutch arm where the cylinder goes and push it very hard towards the baulkhead so you feel and hear a click and the lever feels positioned in place. This bit is MOST important to get right or you will have to do this all over again.
Good luck
Scott
Hope 911 doesn't mind
Jack car up very high and level, especially if you are taking the box right away from the car.
Drain oil, remove propshaft centre bearing and pull out of box.
Remove d/p to gearbox bolts (2 of them). Drift out the roll pins that hold the gear shift linkage to the box selector shaft
Remove TMIC, starter motor, clutch slave cylinder and all wires off the box to various parts of the engine bay.
Just by the starter motor location you must find a 20mm dia cover screw with a hex socket in it and unscrew/remove it.
Find a 6mm threaded bolt, about 50mm long. Screw it into the end of the clutch arm pivot shaft exposed when you removed the above cover. Pull (hard maybe) on the bolt and the lond shaft will pull through abd the clutch arm will go loose.
Undo all 4 bolts that hold the bell housing to the engine. Nothing will move as the 2 dowels that locate the part together will be corroded so tight you will think it is all welded together. Apply WD40 on the dowels.
You need to pull the front driveshafts out now. Remove the lower ball joints on each side of the front suspension, surprisingly easy! Get to the CV joint on the shaft both sides and drift out the scroll pins (very tight). Pull each hub assembly hard and the shaft will pull out of the box no probs.
That's the EASY bit done
![Norty](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/norty.gif)
You MUST have a proper or very very good jack to take the weight of the transmission, it is seriously heavy. Remove the gearbox cross member after placing the support under the box, very close to the bell housing; you have to split the bell housing off the engine by brute force, cursing, and any means you can.
Once free (mine first took 2 whole hours) the box will slide back about 80mm to freedom and will try to fall off the jack!
I bought a Draper transmission jack, utterly invaluable.
Removal is not the reverse of the above.
You need to free the clutch thrust bearing off the clip in the clutch cover. Removed, place the bearing onto the gearbox input shaft sleeve, thread the clutch release arm onto it, and feed in the pivot pin (use coppa slip on re assy) and the cover to finish it off.
When the box is back on and bolted tight, grab the exposed clutch arm where the cylinder goes and push it very hard towards the baulkhead so you feel and hear a click and the lever feels positioned in place. This bit is MOST important to get right or you will have to do this all over again.
Good luck
Scott
Last edited by scoootie5@work; 28 February 2009 at 07:43 PM.
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