MAF Sensor.
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Hello, recently bought a WRX Bugeye which had a K&N induction kit fitted. I removed the kit and put back standard airbox with panel filter but when I started the car, the Engine Management light stayed on. I immediately removed the MAF sensor which was covered in black/greasy stuff which I cleaned off. After doing this all has been good until today when the light came on again. I have also noticed recently that I have a slight hesitation when accelerating hard around 3,000-4,000 rpm and the idle will hover around 1,000 after a quick run then settle a few seconds later. I have had the OBD and code reader on but nothing is stored so no current fault. Are these symptoms of an imminent failure of the MAF and if so has anyone bought one from Ebay for around £70. I have heard Subaru charge around £200 for an OEM item. Any help/comments appreciated, thanks Mark.
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Plugged into EOBD this morning and read 3 faults.
1. Crankshaft position sensor
2. Air Mass Meter
3. Air intake temperature.
Mechanic reckons that probably 2 will read falsely if one part is going/faulty. Has anyone had this before and does anyone know if this sounds right or not? Help appreciated, Mark.
1. Crankshaft position sensor
2. Air Mass Meter
3. Air intake temperature.
Mechanic reckons that probably 2 will read falsely if one part is going/faulty. Has anyone had this before and does anyone know if this sounds right or not? Help appreciated, Mark.
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Your IK contaminated the MAF and unless you can get a multi-/volt-meter across it to measure the output voltage across the rev-range, then I wouldn't be happy using it anymore. Either test to confirm and retain/replace as necessary... or if you can't test, then just replace anyway.
Not worth risking £200 against ££££££££££££'s!...
Not worth risking £200 against ££££££££££££'s!...
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Got OE one for sale for a bugeye.Let me know if youre interested-£120 delivered.Just make sure that it is your maf at fault first.When i thought i had problems with mine,it was just a blown hose that i couldnt see on my FMIC.
When it initially went,was like hitting a brickwall and kept on dying when i tried to start.I believe this is what its like when youre MAF goes,hence me buying two!!!
Did some research on MAF's on S/N and i think that its ONLY the MAF on the classic that can be cleaned,and new age ones shouldnt really be touched.
Its probably the IC thats at fault - prob one thats oil lubricated as this is what sprays onto the maf and will keep on doing so,however many times you change it
When it initially went,was like hitting a brickwall and kept on dying when i tried to start.I believe this is what its like when youre MAF goes,hence me buying two!!!
Did some research on MAF's on S/N and i think that its ONLY the MAF on the classic that can be cleaned,and new age ones shouldnt really be touched.
Its probably the IC thats at fault - prob one thats oil lubricated as this is what sprays onto the maf and will keep on doing so,however many times you change it
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Last edited by billyray911; 01 April 2009 at 07:13 PM. Reason: re read original post!
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After yesterday, cleared codes on EOBD and ran overnight, gave it some speed this morning and light eventually came back on. Plugged in and read only 1 fault, CAM SENSOR! Mechanic reckons this is why car will hesitate when accelerating as it will be sending wrong signals to ecu regarding engine timing. Car now idles high sometimes after boosting so have ordered one at trade from Subaru! Coming tomorrow. MAF fault showed up because I unplugged whilst engine was running after taking K&N off and this also gave fault 3 which was air intake temp too high! Looks like I will be sorted for the weekend! Happy Days.
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