2006 uk/euro 2.5 WRX Impreza

A while ago I read about an oil change procedure for Subaru's. I remember one part of it was to fill up the filter before refitting.

I would be grateful if anyone has a link or any further advice.

John

 

In depth guide to a DIY Oil Change for a Classic Impreza courtesy of a thread on Surrey Scoobies site.

To those who know the score this isn't intended as an egg sucking exercise but hopefully it will help some of the new guys out. You read an awful lot about dry cranking and I sure it puts some people off, I'd hate to think that the process is skipped due to fear of the unknown, potentially contributing to or directly causing a premature end to an engine.

The term dry cranking simply describes trying to start up the engine with the crank sensor disconnected. The engine will turn over on the starter motor only (as the crank sensor has been unplugged the engine will not fire). The whole point is to distribute the oil and establish a decent pressure before firing the engine.

You will need: -

5 litres (4.5 will be used) of your chosen oil.
A new Subaru manufactured oil filter
A new Subaru sump washer
17mm socket for the sump plug
Flat surface to stand the car on.

1. Warm the engine (to ease the draining process).

2. Pre-fill the new filter with fresh oil. Fill to the very top and keep topping up (it will take 15 minutes or so to fully absorb the oil).

3. Remove the oil filler cap (to allow the oil to drain easily)

4. Remove the under tray.

5. Drain all of the old oil from sump (be careful it will be warm/hot and gushes out so be ready and have a suitable sized (depth & width) container for the oil to drain into). It will take a few minutes to run dry.

6. Remove old filter (you should be able to do this by hand, if not use an oil filter wrench or alternatively stab with a screwdriver for leverage if necessary).

7. Wipe the filter seating & apply a small amount of oil to the face of the new oil seal on the new oil filter and then fit the pre-filled filter (Step 2). Make sure the thread is not crossed and do not over tighten as this can lead to leaks. ¾ to a turn after it begins to feel tight is about right.

8. Wipe the sump plug seating and apply a new washer to sump plug and tighten.

9. Fill the engine with oil to halfway between the two holes on the dipstick (you should allow 5-10 minutes for the oil to settle to get an accurate reading).

10. Refit the oil filler cap.

11. Disconnect (unplug) the crank sensor to stop the engine firing (this prevents both spark and fuel injection to the engine) Location: -








or (preferably) remove the spark plugs - removal of the spark plugs is generally accepted as the preferred option as it prevents compression meaning that the load on the bearings during the dry cranking process is relieved until oil pressure has been re-established (after dry cranking). It's a bit of a chore. That said it is good to check your plugs every now and than as it can give a heads up of other potential problems.

So.You do not have to remove the plugs, disconnecting the crank sensor is sufficient but if you are going to remove the plugs you should disconnect the crank sensor too.

12. Dry crank the engine until the oil pressure light extinguishes (some cars lights don't always extinguish but as long as you crank for the recommended time there should be no issues). This could take 30-80 seconds, don't worry if it takes a little longer. Crank in short bursts to save the battery (wait a few seconds between each crank). You cannot over crank. This action primes the system establishing oil distribution until it meets resistance, creating pressure.

13. Refit spark plugs (only if removed obviously)

14. Refit (plug back in) the crank sensor

15. Start the engine and leave to idle for a minute or two so the oil pressure can stabilise before driving.

16. Check sump plug and filter seal for adequate tightness/leaks

17. Go for a short and slow drive until the engine is at full operating temperature then switch off.

18. Top up the oil to the upper hole on the dipstick but do not overfill. The highest notch on the dipstick is the fully hot/overfill mark. The oil level shouldn't be any higher than the second hole even when hot.

19. Check sump plug and filter seal for adequate tightness/leaks one again.

20. Refit the under tray

 

Many thanks slipstream_uk.

John

 

Will... can... people resist adding their two'penneth to this thread?

As Samuel L Jackson's character in Jurassic Park, said, "Hooold onto your butts..."

 

This is the kind of post I need to read as a new owner :-)
Manny Thanks

Karl

 

I still can't believe the restraint showed by members!

Commendable.

 

Is the reason you disconnect the crankcase sensor to stop fuel being pumped into the cylinders.

John

 

What I wanted to say in the above post was does disconnecting the crankcase sensor stop fuel being pumped into the cylinders.

John

 

oh no,not this again........ personally i dont disconnect any sensors,never had any probs,lots of people have different views on this,main dealer do not disconnect any sensors! i have just opened a can of worms havent i jozzy boy!

 

I don't disconnect any of the sensors after an oil change, in the same way I don't disconnect any of the sensors every time I start the car after all of the oil has drained into the sump

I do pre-fill the filter though

 

here we go......

 

Suppose it does not do any harm though?

John

 

I'm not saying a word...