HELP GUYS...ENGINE HAS MAJOR KNOCK!!
#1
HELP GUYS...ENGINE HAS MAJOR KNOCK!!
HI guys my p1 has a major engine knock sounds quite deep and at low rpm,pretty sure its the mains? engine had full rebuid 13k ago ;0(
you can hear the turbo spooling down when engine is off so i suspect the oil pump has went (would explain turbo as no oil getting to it) and would explain shell also,just wondering what shells i need (size etc,centre thrust?rear thrust?) also can i change the shells while engine is in the car? whats the quickest method?
thanks very much for your help
allan
P1 2 TUF
you can hear the turbo spooling down when engine is off so i suspect the oil pump has went (would explain turbo as no oil getting to it) and would explain shell also,just wondering what shells i need (size etc,centre thrust?rear thrust?) also can i change the shells while engine is in the car? whats the quickest method?
thanks very much for your help
allan
P1 2 TUF
#2
It's rear thrust shells you need but there's no such thing as a "quick method" in this circumstance.
You can't change them in the car, the engine needs to be removed and completely disassembled before they can be changed - and even then you will need to clean and inspect the whole engine carefully both to remove anything that shouldn't be there, and also to isolate all the damaged parts. If a main bearing has picked up there may be associated crank damage, for example.
It's not uncommon to be able to hear VF turbos spooling down after engine stop by the way, so this in itself is not proof positive that the oil pump has failed. If this sound has suddenly started happening at the same time as the knocking then likelihood is that they're related, but it's impossible for any of us to diagnose without having the engine in pieces in front of us.
Not what you want to hear, but there're no quick fixes unfortunately.
Incidentally, when did it last have an oil change, and what prompted the earlier rebuild?
You can't change them in the car, the engine needs to be removed and completely disassembled before they can be changed - and even then you will need to clean and inspect the whole engine carefully both to remove anything that shouldn't be there, and also to isolate all the damaged parts. If a main bearing has picked up there may be associated crank damage, for example.
It's not uncommon to be able to hear VF turbos spooling down after engine stop by the way, so this in itself is not proof positive that the oil pump has failed. If this sound has suddenly started happening at the same time as the knocking then likelihood is that they're related, but it's impossible for any of us to diagnose without having the engine in pieces in front of us.
Not what you want to hear, but there're no quick fixes unfortunately.
Incidentally, when did it last have an oil change, and what prompted the earlier rebuild?
#3
It's rear thrust shells you need but there's no such thing as a "quick method" in this circumstance.
You can't change them in the car, the engine needs to be removed and completely disassembled before they can be changed - and even then you will need to clean and inspect the whole engine carefully both to remove anything that shouldn't be there, and also to isolate all the damaged parts. If a main bearing has picked up there may be associated crank damage, for example.
It's not uncommon to be able to hear VF turbos spooling down after engine stop by the way, so this in itself is not proof positive that the oil pump has failed. If this sound has suddenly started happening at the same time as the knocking then likelihood is that they're related, but it's impossible for any of us to diagnose without having the engine in pieces in front of us.
Not what you want to hear, but there're no quick fixes unfortunately.
Incidentally, when did it last have an oil change, and what prompted the earlier rebuild?
You can't change them in the car, the engine needs to be removed and completely disassembled before they can be changed - and even then you will need to clean and inspect the whole engine carefully both to remove anything that shouldn't be there, and also to isolate all the damaged parts. If a main bearing has picked up there may be associated crank damage, for example.
It's not uncommon to be able to hear VF turbos spooling down after engine stop by the way, so this in itself is not proof positive that the oil pump has failed. If this sound has suddenly started happening at the same time as the knocking then likelihood is that they're related, but it's impossible for any of us to diagnose without having the engine in pieces in front of us.
Not what you want to hear, but there're no quick fixes unfortunately.
Incidentally, when did it last have an oil change, and what prompted the earlier rebuild?
Well put that man
#4
the car was sitting at 66k and wanted a power increase so the engine was rebuilt with apparent stronger internals,the turbo spooling down noise has only just started happening same time as the engine knock......
#6
id go back to the guys who built and ask why there engine has failed and if it is a part they supplied and its failed then they need to look at putting it right as 13 k is not that many for a rebuilt engine they should last for 40 k if a good job as been done and p.s bottom end rebuil could cost up to 3000 depends on what it is really
#7
When you say the engine was rebuilt with "apparent" stronger internals, do you know what, specifically, was used in it? Either way, the people who rebuilt this may have some questions to answer as to why it's failed so soon, but equally there may be a legitimate explanation for it - for example a failing sensor causing the engine to detonate itself to bits, or even oil change-related starvation.
the turbo spooling down noise has only just started happening same time as the engine knock......
You really need this to be examined by someone who can actually look at and listen to the engine. There are limits to what can be diagnosed through a post on a web forum.
Trending Topics
#8
The P1 bottom end is just the same as any STI, it's just a ej20 with Subaru forged pistons, they are not that good really. Do you know if the crank was re-ground? If it was, that's the problem, they don't take re-grinding. I know a chap that will re-build with new V9 crank for 1,500 or fully forged for 2,500, the engine needs to be out and on a pallet though. You may be able to get a local garage to do this fro a few hundred pounds? PM sent
Andy
Andy
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Mattybr5@MB Developments
Full Cars Breaking For Spares
28
28 December 2015 11:07 PM
Mattybr5@MB Developments
Full Cars Breaking For Spares
12
18 November 2015 07:03 AM