Hobstar82

Hi peeps,

When under boost and full throttle I suddenly get a lose of power for a split second then it comes back on again on my MY99 Turbo 2000 AWD (which has been mapped, a while back)

Sometimes it does it more often than other times.

If I drive mid throttle its generally ok

My clutch is starting to intermittantly slip but doesn't seem to interlink with this as it will do it when clutch is not slipping and not do it when it is slipping.

Thanks in advance

Slowboy Racing

The most likely problem is Fuel cut, this is the ECU cutting fuel to the engine to prevent damage due to boost Spike. Genrally happens in high grears.

Hobstar82

Do I need to get the boost cut back on it then?

TonyBurns

iTrader: (3)

It could be any number of problems, split boost pipe, overboosting, clogged boost solenoid.... any mods since the ecu was mapped?

Tony

m@t STImulation

iTrader: (3)

may be coil packs if they are breaking down you be missing a beat under load

Hobstar82

The only mod I have done is put a boost gauge on it but it did it once before putting gauge on and now is getting worse and worse

Hobstar82

This type has the multi coil pack on it. Its not a miss fire, its like you flipped a switch turning the turbo off for a split second then it comes back on again. My feelings are thar its over boosting but cant understand why it was ok after remap a couple of months ago and now its started to do it!?!

If its of any use the standard turbo is running at 1.7 bar peek boost

uk300scoob

iTrader: (24)

you will need to check all boost pipes for splits/tears loose hoses etc and clean your boost solenoid out with brake cleaner, check coil packs, check you air flow meter and check turbos actuater

uk300scoob

iTrader: (24)

1.7 bar thats well too much on standard turbo mate couldnt be right and if it is running that much boost turn it down with a manual boost controller to 1.1 bar asap as that thing is going to cause big problems

Hobstar82

Its got a bleed valve on it as fitted and set up buy Martin @ engine tuner and its definately running at 1.7 peek

uk300scoob

iTrader: (24)

turn it down asap to 1.1 bar its wrong sitting at 1.7 bar

m@t STImulation

iTrader: (3)

im only going by my own experiences i have the individual coil packs and on full throttle if felt like a boost problem but was a jerk caused by a coil pack on the way out.

1.7 bar is very high what supporting mods have you got for that

Splitpin

UK300: Did you read the whole thread? If the OP has already confirmed that the car has been mapped at this boost level, by someone who knows their stuff, we can assume two things:

1. The boost cut level in the ECU will have been revised (or bypassed) to allow the car to operate like this.

2. While it might sound "wrong" at first reading (and it does, IMO, that sounds like too much on a TD04, especially with bleed valve control), if the car has been mapped like this and the OP knows that the peak boost level is intentional, there is no point wildly telling him to turn it "down to 1.1" in the absence of other advice.

Hobstar: As Tony has already said, there are a slew of issues which could potentially cause this problem. The fact that your car seems to have quite an "extreme" setup makes it even more difficult for us to diagnose over the internet. If it isn't obvious to you what's going on, you should probably have a word with the Jefferys next to find out from them exactly how they have set up the boost control (and fuel cut) on your car.

What you're experiencing might be overboost into cut, but it might not be. Are you sure the boost is being controlled by a bleed valve rather than the standard solenoid? If you still have the solenoid on then overboost could be caused by oil clogging. If you have a bleed valve then you could still eventually find that it has "self-adjusted" a little over time, to the point where the car is pushed into cut.

Either way would be worth a call to the tuner, describe what's going on and ask them if they can point a finger at a likely cause.

Incidentally, your car doesn't have fully "multi" coils. 99-00 uses a two-coil wasted spark setup, and a breakdown certainly is on the list of possible causes for what you're experiencing.

uk300scoob

iTrader: (24)

noone has there car sitting at 1.7 bar on a standard classic turbo why would a mapper remap it to that? 1.2 bar is enough for this turbo

uk300scoob

iTrader: (24)

and advising him to turn it down is the right thing to do with over boosting at 1.7 bar is going to cause big problems with driving it like that so safe thing to do with the bleed valve is to turn it down for the mean time until problem is solved

Splitpin

Like I said above, generally, agreed - although you can usefully run more than 1.2 through them at low engine speeds.

Bottom line is that if the car has been through Martyn and Alan's shop, and the OP knows that this boost level is intentional, then we have to work on the basis that the car has been mapped and is nominally "safe" at this level. One can only assume that there's a big intercooler involved somewhere, as without it, the charge temps will be more than unfavourable.

It's because this does "sound wrong" that I've suggested Hobstar get in touch with enginetuner. They may well turn round and tell him that the car was only mapped at 1.4. Either way, until we know different, only the people who've worked on the car know how it should be performing.

uk300scoob

iTrader: (24)

yes, op please state your current full mod list, and oviously the car isnt handeling the 1.7 bar of boost and should be turned down even at 1.3 bar is a safe and enough for this car, there is no need for boosting it to 1.7 bar and he can control it with his bleed valve which he should try turning it down slighly and see if it helps because it sound slike its over boosting

Hobstar82

Sorry if I've opened a can of worms on this one!!

There is too many quotes to go on so I'll try my best not to miss anything out!

The only mods I have are full decat, induction kit and ecutek remap.
The turbo is not the original td04, I think its a turbo technics (but will have to check invoice when I'm home) but is the same volume as the td04.
I've just looked under the bonnet and it looks like the solenoid as been disconnected. The boost pipe comes off the positive pressure side of the turbo into the bleed valve and out onto the waiste gate.
I've had no problems with it since remap about 2 months ago until this past week.
I can remember martin @ engine tuner saying he was struggling to get the boost pressure up, thats why he put the bleed valve on and got it to 1.7bar. And sure enough since putting boost gauge on it is peeking @ 1.7 bar. He put a "tamper proof" bleed valve on so I cant fiddle with it (although its only a locking screw) so cant see that the valve has adjusted its self.

uk300scoob

iTrader: (24)

well heres your answer mate turn it down as it shouldnt be at 1.7 bar and make sure all pipes are connected to right place and not blocked ripped or leaking, secure pipes with cable ties, i cant see an ecutek tuner putting a standard turbo up to 1.7 bar that bleed valve needs adjusted, take the car back to him and explain what is happening and tell him you want it fixed asap or its going to cause ur engine alot damage with over boosting

Hobstar82

Yer have sent them an email and gonna ring tomorrow!
Spoke to my mate who came down to remap with me and he remembers the tuner saying he had set it to 1.7 bar.

Splitpin

Were the induction kit and the decat on the car at the point you had it remapped?

Same volume? Turbos aren't like loudspeakers. If you have a non-standard one it'd certainly help us to help you if you can tell us exactly what it is. UK300 is clearly having an epi over the boost level and he does have at least half a point, as the boost you're talking about is well above what one would normally see with a "standard-ish" turbo, especially given that you're not running with ECU boost control.

Yep, QED on that one then.

Yes, that's fair enough. Bleed valves, if they're going to go one way or the other, will tend to drop the boost level as the spring can weaken with use (and/or heat).

The sooner you can get some info from enginetuner the better. One of the first questions to ask them is how much headroom there is between the boost target and the cut value.

Splitpin

The OP has already implied that it's not a standard turbo chap, and whatever you can see or not, he's also adamant that the car was mapped at this boost level. I'm just as dubious as you are but that doesn't change what Hobstar knows.

Whether it appears right to you or me or not, it appears to have been napped this way, and the people who did that are the the ones the OP needs to get a response from. In the meantime everything else is just surmise.

uk300scoob

iTrader: (24)

clearly says he that he is running 1.7 bar boost on standard turbo then things have changed needs to make his mind up on whats done to the car to get a good response at to whats wrong

The rookie

iTrader: (1)

Regardless of the rights and wrongs I would suggest....
1/ Talk to Enginetuner and understand what they have done, I find it strange you have a remap AND a bleed valve, if done properly you shouldn't need the valve.
2/ As above and find out what target boost is.
3/ Short term, turn the boost down a bit if yo can loosen the locknut on the valve, see if it stops the fuel cut and at least you'll know its safe, worst case just diconnest the hose from bleed to intake and block (both open ends!) to see if it cures the cutting.

Simon

Hobstar82

Ok

Just spoke to the mapper he said either the boost is too high or the fuel cut point is too low. And the reason why its only just come to ahead might be due to the colder, denser air we have at the mo! This makes sense to me as the car was mapped at the beggining of the really nice weather we've just had and has been fine up until now....

Taking it down to be sorted in a couple of weeks so gonna have to drive sensibly, like I always do , for the time being!

Hobstar82

The turbo is not the original it has been replaced with a different make but is the same as the standard.

Yes the mods were done before the remap

Volume, meanin the turbo shifts the same volume of air as the standard turbo And forgot to look up the invoice to state which turbo was fitted!

Thanks for all the info guys, really appreciate it!