PJF

Hi there, i own a 97 uk turbo and need to remove the oil pump, i have found out how to remove the cam belt but as yet not the oil pump. Is it just a case of undoing all the bolts around the oil pump pulling it off replacing the o'ring (possibly tightening the 3 screwed plate on the back up) sealing it to the block and then putting it all back together?
or is there more to it?

any help would be fantstic

merlin24

iTrader: (1)

Its as you described above - remove the 7 bolts and carefully prise the pump away from the block.
A dab of locktite on the 5 backing plate screws will ensure they wont come out again.
Its also wise to replace the front pump/crank seal while the pump is off and also remove/refit the Pressure Relief Valve to make sure its not scored/jamming in the body of the pump.

Mick

PJF

Thanks for the quick reply, "hopefully it wont be raining when i get home"
cheers

APIDavid

iTrader: (4)

Getting the gear off the crank - in front of the pump, can be a challenge. Don't damage the crank angle sensor trigger attached to the back of the gear or there'll be all sorts of trouble and it'll ALL have to come off again.

Good Luck David APi

PJF

Thanks for the info,
Although i need abit more info, i can not work out how to release the cam belt tensioner which is standing in the way of my progress at the mo
anyone know how i can do this?

carl.woolford

take the to bolts out that hold the tensioner to the block, then squeeze it rod into the tensioner body using a vice and insert a pin the the hole to hold the piston back

PJF

Thanks for the help the tensioner and belt are off, i have removed all the bolts from the oil pump but cant seem to pull it off has any one any hints on how i can do this
p.s i've tryed swearing at it alot but it is still stuck on

merlin24

iTrader: (1)

Gently lever it away from the block after removing all the bolts - lever from behind the crank sensor boss or the bottom of the pump against the sump - its only held by the sealant.

Mick

PJF

Thanks for the info the oil pump popped straight off with abit of force, i,ve replaced the o,ring for the oil pump and put some sealant on the back plate screws, one of which had worked its way loose.
I have also replaced the crank shaft seal which had worn down to the metal and of course sealed the oil pump on
I am now stuck as i cant pull the belt on as it is very tight on the last pulley, the tensioner has an allen key through the piston but it seems like it needs compressing abit more and am not sure how or if this can be done.
I have trying using a clamp but cant get it to compress with out it slipping.
Does anyone have any suggestions
Any help would be fantastic

merlin24

iTrader: (1)

When you put the pin in the tensioner, it has to go through the tensioner rod and the body of the tensioner at the back to retain it in the compressed position.
I normally use a press/vice to do it - sounds like you need a bigger clamp to push it all the way back.

You could always go down to your local DIY store and "try" one of their clamps to do the job without the security seeing you

Mick

PJF

Alright cheers again for the reply, the pin was all the way through the tensioner but it was still very tight to get the belt on.
it is now done with lots of swearing wrenchs carefully placed cable ties and brut force to get the tensioner on. I have given the crank about ten turns by hand and the timing marks all line up fine.
So now its time for a rest before putting everything else back on, i will update this thread once i fire the engine up and fingers crossed all should be well

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Have yourself a well earned cuppa!

merlin24

iTrader: (1)

It would be wise to remove the spark plugs and disconnect the crank sensor and then
crank the engine over until the oil light goes out.
This is because it may take a while for the oil pump to prime itself after it has been removed.

Mick

APIDavid

iTrader: (4)

Just check that you haven't got a load of crankshaft end float. That is one reason why the crank oil seal gets worn away.

Get someone to press the clutch up and down and watch to see if the crank moves in and out. It's design amount is 4 - 6 thou max Which should be all but invisible to the naked eye. if it moves enough for the eye to see, you may have a different problem.

Good Luck - David

PJF

Thanks for all the info guys, i managed to find time last nite to finish putting it back together and start it up. The good news is it starts and runs well which has impressed me as i have never changed a cambelt before, only time will tell if the leak is fixed.
If only i had read the last posts before i put it back together, i did remove the crank sensor and turn the engine over a few times but i did not remove the spark plugs but all seems well.
Hopefully i shouldnt need to mess around the cambelt area for acouple of years although next time i do i will check for crankshaft end float.
Thanks for all the posts they were all very helpful and i think i will go and have a cuppa