SunnySideUp

Do these exist on a UK, MY00, Impreza Turbo?

All I see is a 'Diagnostic' type connector in the steering shroud moulding.

joey_turbo

iTrader: (26)

Yep.

Thats the OBD port you must be looking at. If you are after the ones for the DIY ECU check, there are buried amongst other wires.

joey_turbo

iTrader: (26)

More info with a pic here: Scoobypedia | Trusted knowledge for everything Subaru | Knowledge / Reading ECU Fault Codes

SunnySideUp

Thanks Joey ..... so, I do actually have the connectors spoken about?

Thanks for the link too!!

Coffin Dodger

I've heard that special MY00 Impreza's with 50l fuel tanks don't have these connectors

SunnySideUp

Yes, thank you ...... get out of Technical!

Coffin Dodger

But you're in here

And I know a lot more about Scoobies than you do (Including where the diagnostic connectors are!)

SunnySideUp

I am in Technical ..

So, if you know so much answer me this .... would the CEL come on if the Gearbox Oil was low?

bob r

iTrader: (46)

I very much doubt it mate. It's a case of visually checking the amount in there. Have you a leak?

JGM has a website that gives info of the connectors you mention.

joey_turbo

iTrader: (26)

Yeah I doubt it also.
If there was, there would be something in the error codes here:
Scoobypedia | Trusted knowledge for everything Subaru | Knowledge / Subaru Specific Trouble Code Definitions

SunnySideUp

Thanks all ...... found the black connectors ..... I can't twist them round to connect together ..

Splitpin

No. The ECU knows nothing about the oil level one way or t'other.

If the black plugs are too tight to connect, there should be some loom tape (or similar) just above them which you can loosen off to get a little more slack.

SunnySideUp

Connected and Code 22 is indicated .... Knock Sensor?

Knock Sensor, Subaru, £90 .... 45 minutes to change - does that sound right?

The light comes on for 10 seconds in the morning after driving 3/4 mile ... then goes out for the rest of the day.

If the Knock Sensor was at fault, is that what would be shown?

Also, I guess if the knock sensor is at fault will the ECU ignore it? Or will it still monitor it every so often to see if it falls within spec.?

In other words, is the Knock Sensor only faulty for 10 seconds but then OK?

joey_turbo

iTrader: (26)

Certainly do an ECU reset, same link. I had simular issue with my knock sensor code coming on, ordered it from Subaru, but reset the ECU after I ordered, and it cleared the code, and hasn't come on since. WAs well over a year ago.

Splitpin

Care needed with these as the code 22 sometimes turns out to be caused by a failing airflow sensor on the 99/00 cars. No I don't know why either but it happens!

Can change one in about two minutes if you're in a hurry! You can get genuine sensors considerably cheaper than that if you look around.

Depends how it has failed.

The ECU can tell whether the sensor input is open circuit or not. If the CEL has gone out, I would suspect (although I'm far from certain) that "contact has been re-established".

It's possible. The sensor is really just a microphone. If the internal wiring in the sensor is failing you can get an intermittent contact that sorts itself out once the engine starts to warm it up a bit.

If you have a multimeter you could pull the sensor and test it. A "good" one should show a resistance of around 555K across the two pins, and zero ohms (i.e. dead short) between the right hand pin and the metal part of the sensor body.

SunnySideUp

Cheers, what does a RESET do except clear the Error Code, does it do anything else?

Also, where you say same link - do you mean same wires/connector? Somewhere I read that it is the green connectors?

SunnySideUp

I've just had a look ... it seems to be burried under wires and pipes, which in turn are under the IC - now, I'm handy with a spanner ..... but, 2 minutes!?

Anyone know where else to get these sensors? been told that they are a BOCSH part and quite common ..... the Specialist told me it was a SUBARU only part and is a real bitch to change (hence 45 minutes labour charge).

Splitpin

It'll return the ECU to "virgin" state - also clearing any learned air-fuel or other corrections, and returning the ignition advance multiplier to the default 8. Disconnecting the battery for 10 seconds has the same effect.

To reset the ECU you need to connect both the black and the green connectors and then wait until the CEL starts to flash a regular on-off-on-off pattern.

SunnySideUp

Thanks .... I thought that the battery disconnect didn't work - not even if done overnight? Some capacitors charged or something?

I changed my battery a few weeks ago ..... not sure if this is related?

The RESET also involves some fancy Full Throttle, Half Throttle, even driving at a certain speed for a certain distance ...... or is that poppycock?

Splitpin

It can be done - it's just a case of feeding a 12mm socket on an extension down between the wires and pipes, undoing the bolt and then pulling the sensor out with some long nose pliers. Refitting is the same in reverse, preferably with some blu tack holding the bolt into the socket so it doesn't drop under the manifold. Taking the intercooler off makes it considerably less fiddly, but 45 minutes is taking the proverbial.

The sensor itself is a licence-manufactured copy of a Bosch design. You can buy Bosch sensors quite cheaply but the problem is that the current one uses a different style of plug (doh)...

Splitpin

Nope. Newage cars are different as their ECUs have a non-volatile memory, and they don't have black plugs either, so the only way to reset one is with an external diagnostic tool. You could unplug the battery for years on one of those and they'll still won't "reset".

Shouldn't be.

Ages since I've done a reset that way but can't even remember whether you have to be driving the car at all. It might be that the ECU needs to get a signal from all the sensors before it'll flash the CEL so driving around casually might be a pre-requisite, but nothing beyond that.