head/rocker gasket procedure - what do I need
#1
head/rocker gasket procedure - what do I need
I am going to be changing the rocker cover gaskets and possibly Head gaskets also on my Legacy - and water pump, thermostat and power steering pump. Oh and radiator if I can get one out to me in France... I need to do all this before I return to the UK with a caravan in-tow in mid october
Apart from the gaskets - what will I need to do this job properly?
• Do i need some kind of sealant for the gaskets and if so which type? (can you tell I've not done this before? lol).
• Also do I need to get any bolts or is it OK to use the old ones?
• And finally, I'm going to replace the timing belt too - should I also replace the other belts or is it OK to re-use the current ones?
Many thanks for any tips!
Apart from the gaskets - what will I need to do this job properly?
• Do i need some kind of sealant for the gaskets and if so which type? (can you tell I've not done this before? lol).
• Also do I need to get any bolts or is it OK to use the old ones?
• And finally, I'm going to replace the timing belt too - should I also replace the other belts or is it OK to re-use the current ones?
Many thanks for any tips!
#2
I used "wellseal" as sealant for the head gaskets, about £7 on ebay
Why are you doing head gaskets? big job! The first time I had my engine out I bought new bolts (OE) but the second time, it had only done less than 1k on the new bolts so I re-used them.
You might need inlet manifold gaskets and possible exhaust gaskets too.
When you have the timing belt off, make sure that all the pulleys/idlers spin and move smoothly and freely. If they dont it might be worth buying the complete kit and replacing it all.
Other belts will be fine if they aren't perished or cracked on the inside of the belt.
One other thing to think about while engine is out is the clutch!!
Tucker
Why are you doing head gaskets? big job! The first time I had my engine out I bought new bolts (OE) but the second time, it had only done less than 1k on the new bolts so I re-used them.
You might need inlet manifold gaskets and possible exhaust gaskets too.
When you have the timing belt off, make sure that all the pulleys/idlers spin and move smoothly and freely. If they dont it might be worth buying the complete kit and replacing it all.
Other belts will be fine if they aren't perished or cracked on the inside of the belt.
One other thing to think about while engine is out is the clutch!!
Tucker
#3
cheers mate. I'm doing the head gaskets because I suspect they have failed, though I will change the water pump and thermostat first and if that cures the problem I won't do the HG.
It sounds like I will need to get bolts as well then as the HG hasn't been done and it's nearly at 150k miles. I will be doing the rocker gaskets anyhow.
The pulleys and idlers should be fine as they were changed along with the belt not long ago.
Sounds like maybe I should get a complete gasket set?!?
thanks
It sounds like I will need to get bolts as well then as the HG hasn't been done and it's nearly at 150k miles. I will be doing the rocker gaskets anyhow.
The pulleys and idlers should be fine as they were changed along with the belt not long ago.
Sounds like maybe I should get a complete gasket set?!?
thanks
#4
Alot of a gasket set is useful and some parts you might not want to replace. I used most of mine, but I had my engine out for 3 months and spent ages doing it.
What makes you suspect HG failure?
Only pull the enigne out and heads off if you are 100% certain that is the cause of a problem.
Have you done a compression/sniffer test?
What makes you suspect HG failure?
Only pull the enigne out and heads off if you are 100% certain that is the cause of a problem.
Have you done a compression/sniffer test?
#5
Reason for suspect is coolant boils over into plastic tank and needs topping up about 250-500ml after a 20 min drive. Coolant pipes get very hard even just idling up to temp, though admitedly I've not felt the pipes before so don't know if they're any harder than normal. temp gauge doesn't show excessive heat though - maybe up 1-2mm more than normal which is not high at all.
Can't see any oil in the water or vice-versa - nor see any vapour out the exhaust. It's definitely going somewhere and boiling up but not sure where - there's a good chance it could be the radiator so I will swap that first and the water pump and themrostat.
Only if after all that fails I will do the HGs, but I need to do the rocker cover gaskets too anyway.
Can't see any oil in the water or vice-versa - nor see any vapour out the exhaust. It's definitely going somewhere and boiling up but not sure where - there's a good chance it could be the radiator so I will swap that first and the water pump and themrostat.
Only if after all that fails I will do the HGs, but I need to do the rocker cover gaskets too anyway.
Last edited by arumdevil; 12 September 2009 at 02:35 PM.
#6
My bet would be rad if youe losing water. Check to see if the rad is hot allover next time its warm. The rads with plastic tanks do tend to split and lose coolant. It might not be very obvious either.
Make sure you fill the coolant through the turbo pipe with the small hose at the top of the rad on the left disconnected. That will eliminate airlocks too.
Make sure you fill the coolant through the turbo pipe with the small hose at the top of the rad on the left disconnected. That will eliminate airlocks too.
#7
My bet would be rad if youe losing water. Check to see if the rad is hot allover next time its warm. The rads with plastic tanks do tend to split and lose coolant. It might not be very obvious either.
Make sure you fill the coolant through the turbo pipe with the small hose at the top of the rad on the left disconnected. That will eliminate airlocks too.
Make sure you fill the coolant through the turbo pipe with the small hose at the top of the rad on the left disconnected. That will eliminate airlocks too.
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#10
It will be the same height. The idea behind filling it through the hose to the turbo, is that you will have the hose in the air from the header tank end, filling through a funnel, so would be higher than both. This forces any air trapped in the system through the rad, and out of the next highest point at the top of the rad. Replace hoses, and top up header tank. Works everytime
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