I have tried searching on here, but not had any luck.

Its for a classic.

Thanks

 

disconnect battery,
pull back passenger footwell carpet,
unplug the 4 / 3 connectors (year dependant)
unscrew the 3 / 4 10mm bolts
remove ECU

install is the opposite of the above

 

Rocket science it is not

 

i think he may mean an aftermarket ecu. my advice. instead of coming on here looking for advice, why don't to take it to someone who knows what they are doing and get them to fit it and tune your car. trust me, these things usually end in tears.

 

He could also be talking about a 99/00 my Classic, in which case it won't be plug and play as the ECU would need coding to the keys before it would work.

 

you forgot to lift the passenger footwell floor plate too:-)

 

No coding for this year mate, immobiliser is not in the ecu

 

Main thing DISCONNECT BATTERY or you could damage the ECU

 

Afraid we will have to agree to disagree then, but an ECU from a Turbo 2000 of this vintage IS coded, and will not start the engine unless it recoginses the chip in the ign key.

 

Is it now, funny how when I changed mine from an AE802 to an AE801 it still worked fine then, maybe mine was special

Sorry but you are wrong MY99/00 ECUs are not linked to immobiliser keys. Please delete that bit of mis-information from your brain

 

Complete rubbish, the MY99/00 keys have no chip in them, the immobiliser is in the sigma m30 alarm system

 

I thought there might be a code for the immobiliser in the ECU of a 99/00 but there isn't - I've swapped ECUs in mine with no problem at all. The immobiliser is built into the Sigma remote unlocking.

 

The difference is that Just is correct. You've got it the wrong way round. 97-98 and MY01+ UK ECUs are coded. 99-00's aren't.

No it isn't. The coding on the 99-00 UK/EU market cars is in the immobiliser, which is a separate box located under the steering column. It is connected to the ECU and will allow startup if the code signal received from the transponder in the key matches one of the entries in its "good" list.

When you reprogram this system, you don't "change the codes in the keys", you teach the immobiliser to accept the codes in new keys. Been there, done it, know exactly how it works.

You're correct about the engine only starting if the transponder is recognised, but wrong about the physical location of the code checking. As Matt says you can swap 99-00 ECUs all day and the car will still start. Swap the immobiliser unit, however, and you've got to re-teach the new one to accept your existing keys.

Sorry old boy but that's not correct either. 99-00 UK cars arrived in the country with the "cat 2" key-coded immobiliser that functions as described above. They then had the Sigma system fitted after being driven off the boat. However this functions in addition to the transponder-based system, not instead of it

If you look at your key you will see the little compartment the transponder is hiding inside, while the immobiliser unit itself can be seen if you remove the under-dash cowl on the driver's side. Small black box about the size of a cigarette packet.

 

LOL, beats a quick retreat to eat copious amounts of humble pie... will also save a slice for the techi that miss informed me.

100% correct Splitpin

As you were everybody, I'll get back in my box!

 

I guess the real question for splitpin is how do you beat it then? I have a MY 97/98 and would love to be able to swap between 8S and SP ecu's at will not pay for £40 on the select monitor every time. any ideas? not advocating car theft though! How to suck out the codes from the ecu or trick it into thinking it has a correct one?

 

[



Sorry old boy but that's not correct either. 99-00 UK cars arrived in the country with the "cat 2" key-coded immobiliser that functions as described above. They then had the Sigma system fitted after being driven off the boat. However this functions in addition to the transponder-based system, not instead of it

If you look at your key you will see the little compartment the transponder is hiding inside, while the immobiliser unit itself can be seen if you remove the under-dash cowl on the driver's side. Small black box about the size of a cigarette packet.[/QUOTE]

This is not correct either the factory immobiliser they arrive in this country with is not cat2, thats why they have to be fitted with an additional immobiliser instead of just a cat 2 to 1 upgrade system

it failed the thatcham test so not cat2

 

This is a difficult area to comment on openly given the obvious security implications - and I'm afraid that I have zero detailed knowledge of the 97-8 setup anyway so not much info I can add in your situation.

The obvious practical answer would be to have two keys - one with a transponder coded for one ECU and the other for the other. If you wanted to do it "properly", you could probably find someone with the knowledge to work it out, but you'll also invariably find that it'd cost you a darn sight more than £40 to employ someone with skills like that. That's the catch.

Edited to add: Just, without wanting to drag the thread into pedant's corner, you're incorrect. The immobiliser part of the 99-00 factory fit security system is cat 2 compliant. The bit that failed was the keyless entry system.

This is why Subaru UK fitted the full M30 alarm as it has its own remote central locking controller and fobs. They couldn't fit the "2-1 upgrade", the M32, as this relies on the OE remote locking, which is, as mentioned above, the non-Thatcham compliant part.