Bought my Scooby 96 sti Jap in June and didn't use it much until I did a track day in it in August. 3 laps in and the crank went!
I replaced this with a 2nd hand unit that had covered 83k and put another replacement turbo on it that had covered 60k.
40 miles down the motorway and boom massive power loss!!! I stripped the engine and the piston was scrap!


So after this I decided to do a full rebuild on the engine that did the crank replacing everything bar the pistons.
I ran the car from Essex to Stockport to run it in and not going above 3.5k (I had done 120 local miles at 2k). After about 120 miles the CEL came on so I pulled in and did just that and found the bottom hose to be cold so I let it cool a little and topped it up. Again after 50 miles or so the light came on again so I checked it again and gave it a pump or two on the bottom hose then topped it up and all seemed fine.
I got to thinking though that as I had changed the turbo did it need mapping? I only thought this because when I bought the car it was advertised with big VF turbo on it, which it hadn't when I removed the engine.
So I spoke with a mapper about this and was advised to re-solder the J1 resister back in to the ECU. I did this and when I put my foot down and get to 3k it just dies!!!! I got home and removed the bridge I had soldered in place and took it back out and it was fine!
I also have a slight rattle or vibration when I accelerate. The only way I can discribe this is if I had a small marble on my windscreen wiper that rattled on the windscreen under acceleration (but not as loud as a marble would be).
The new engine has now done 650 miles.
Any offers?
Is it ok?
Does it need mapping?

 

you dont say what ecu your using? If its standard then its going to require the standard fitment turbo/injectors etc to run properlty> If its been mapped for a particular turbo vf series? its going to be expecting that>

What turbo have you fitted?

 

Anyone else think the slight rattle could be det ?

 

Possible yea

 

The rattle could be almost anything from det to an out of balance propshaft to something else entirely. Steve, with the best will in the world, you're wasting both your time and ours in asking questions here. Given what we know of the car's history and the current symptoms, the range of possible causes is so great we could be here making guesses for a year and still not get it.

The quickest, most efficient way of dealing with this is to take your car to a Subaru specialist and get them to work out what's wrong. There are times when the internet is no substitute for someone with their head under the bonnet. This is one of them.

 

TD05 and what is det?

standard ecu same as the one for sale by 53wrx on adverts page.

These cars must be the poorest things ever built! they're like a tempremental old woman!!

 

Link below to the same ecu as mine.

https://www.scoobynet.com/private-sale-general-17/788388-v2-sti-ecu-sale-new-post.html

 

Click search and type in det. You'll learn a lot more quickly than it will for us to repeat stuff.

Oh dear. Remember the story about the workman and his tools? They're not temperamental at all when maintained properly, although any 17-odd year old car can cause trouble. The history of your car is so chequered (from what we know of it) that, as mentioned above, your best bet is to get it in front of a specialist so you can actually work out where you're at right now and what the best way forward is.

For all we know, the cause of your second blowup might have been something as simple as you fitting the wrong type of turbo, or the wrong thickness head gaskets. Specialist advice is what you need.

 

No not at all> but your two failures could be linked as could your current problem> as above id get it looked at properly get the fueling etc checked out

 

Det = Detonation! Bang!
Get it checked with some det cans mate.

 

It could be anything from the bottom end to a loose pitch stop or even a heat shield tbh. Best thing would be to get it to a mapper to take it for a run with cans on. What's the full spec now steve ? I would be worried if the rattle appeared post cold bottom hose as this could indicate an airlock in the cooling system overheating and consequent damage.

 

Firstly the year now is 2009 not 2013 so the car is 13 years old!
workman and his tools! I replaced every part and seal in this engine except for the pistons so the problem aint there!
As for me fitting the wrong turbo do you think I'm really that dumb as to not fit a like for like???? TD05 off TD05 on, simple.
Heads were not changed as the replacement engine came complete with heads and inlet, so that's the gasket theory gone too.

I'm after helpful advice here not this sort of reply thanks.

 

Mapper or specialist for checking the fuel out?

 

Point remains, it's an old car that will presumably have been driven hard in its life, and even with a full dealer service history, expecting swiss watch reliability from it is a tad unrealistic.

You don't acknowledge the possibility that you could have got something wrong? That's an interesting position to adopt for someone asking advice, especially as the term "det" appeared to mean nothing to you. Your willingness to describe these cars as "the poorest thing ever built" said a lot - and it isn't like I was the only person who picked up on it.

The fact that, according to your own posts, you appear to have driven the car for 240-odd miles with either an airlock or a coolant issue does pose a question or two re. your mechanical sympathy, anyway...

I have no idea how dumb you are. I do know that there are posts here pretty regularly from people who've made precisely that sort of mistake and as this is an internet forum, we obviously can't see your car so have to rely entirely on information provided by you to try and work out what's going on.

As such, if you don't provide everything we need to know up front, usually the only way to rule in or rule out certain explanations is to ask you questions. If you get on your high horse every time someone does that, you won't last very long here. You'll note that Turbotits asked you about the turbo in post #2 so it clearly isn't just me who was considering that possibility.

So that's that possible explanation ruled out then. Wasn't difficult to say, was it?

Not really as we still have no idea whether the engine came with the right ones, or whether there was something else mechanically incompatible that would inevitability lead to failure when fitted into your car. The only thing we do know is that it blew up within 40 miles of fitting, which either suggests the engine was a nail to begin with, or that there was something pretty fundamentally wrong.

Well, tough. You did get helpful advice. If you can't see that then that's your problem, not mine. The fundamental point of my post was that on the basis of the information provided, and our inability to look at the car ourselves, it's almost impossible for us to get a handle on what might be right or wrong, and that you need a specialist to establish a baseline you can safely work forward from - a point that the other respondents have agreed with.

Given that you don't seem to like the way online forums work, it seems an even better next move.

 

[quote=Splitpin;9057397]Point remains, it's an old car that will presumably have been driven hard in its life, and even with a full dealer service history, expecting swiss watch reliability from it is a tad unrealistic. BRAND NEW ENGINE!



You don't acknowledge the possibility that you could have got something wrong? That's an interesting position to adopt for someone asking advice, especially as the term "det" appeared to mean nothing to you. Your willingness to describe these cars as "the poorest thing ever built" said a lot - and it isn't like I was the only person who picked up on it. THATS WHY I ASKED FOR ADVICE! BUT THE ENGINE WAS BUILT BY MYSELF AND A EX SUBARU MAIN DEALER MECHANIC THAT NOW RUNS HIS OWN GARAGE.

The fact that, according to your own posts, you appear to have driven the car for 240-odd miles with either an airlock or a coolant issue does pose a question or two re. your mechanical sympathy, anyway...
I didn't drive it 240 odd miles I drove it 480 odd as I came home too lol. I spoke with the mechanics on the phone and explained everything to them and they said it will be fine after what I did in the services as long as it's not over heated, which hadn't.



I have no idea how dumb you are. I do know that there are posts here pretty regularly from people who've made precisely that sort of mistake and as this is an internet forum, we obviously can't see your car so have to rely entirely on information provided by you to try and work out what's going on.
"For all we know, the cause of your second blowup might have been something as simple as you fitting the wrong type of turbo" tHAT PRETTY MUCH POINTS THE FINGER AT ME?????????????


As such, if you don't provide everything we need to know up front, usually the only way to rule in or rule out certain explanations is to ask you questions. If you get on your high horse every time someone does that, you won't last very long here. You'll note that Turbotits asked you about the turbo in post #2 so it clearly isn't just me who was considering that possibility.

I WAS ASKING QUESTIONS BUT GOT A VERY RUDE REPLY FROM YOU! i WONT LAST LONG ON HERE PMSL, WHAT YOU GOING TO DO RUN ME OUT OF TOWN ON YOUR KEYBOARD

So that's that possible explanation ruled out then. Wasn't difficult to say, was it? WOULDN'T OF BEEN DIFFICULT TO ASK RATHER THAN YOU PRESUMING I HAD FITTED THE WRONG TURBO WOULD IT?



Not really as we still have no idea whether the engine came with the right ones, or whether there was something else mechanically incompatible that would inevitability lead to failure when fitted into your car. The only thing we do know is that it blew up within 40 miles of fitting, which either suggests the engine was a nail to begin with, or that there was something pretty fundamentally wrong.


Well, tough. You did get helpful advice. If you can't see that then that's your problem, not mine. The fundamental point of my post was that on the basis of the information provided, and our inability to look at the car ourselves, it's almost impossible for us to get a handle on what might be right or wrong, and that you need a specialist to establish a baseline you can safely work forward from - a point that the other respondents have agreed with. The fundamental point of your post was rude!

Given that you don't seem to like the way online forums work, it seems an even better next move.I like this forum shame it has some people on it that just don't wont to help others but only try to belittle them![/quote]


People post because they want help and advise and if they get replies like the reply I got from you then they wont use the forum.

PS what's all this we and our? Do you like have a team of Subaru technicians there?

Pleaase leave my thread alone now as you have probably put people off replying already!