Just fitted a boost gauge
07 February 2010, 04:56 PM
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07 February 2010, 05:59 PM
#10
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have just checked and the boost levels are UK Classic (Turbo 2000) 0.9 Bar std pressure
JDM WRX or WRX Sti 1.1 Bar std pressure.
so running 0.6 means either something wrong(check if any codes come up) or your not putting your foot right down(you big jessie)HA HA
JDM WRX or WRX Sti 1.1 Bar std pressure.
so running 0.6 means either something wrong(check if any codes come up) or your not putting your foot right down(you big jessie)HA HA
07 February 2010, 06:00 PM
#11
How funny is this boost-based 'tennis match' thread?! 
FTR, early 240PS (237bhp) WRX's run 0.79 bar and I always thought that UK cars were 0.1 bar less at 0.7bar??? After all, a 1997 "ph.1.5" UK is still only 208bhp... just like the MY94-96 "ph.1" UK ones!
FTR, early 240PS (237bhp) WRX's run 0.79 bar and I always thought that UK cars were 0.1 bar less at 0.7bar??? After all, a 1997 "ph.1.5" UK is still only 208bhp... just like the MY94-96 "ph.1" UK ones!
Last edited by joz8968; 07 February 2010 at 06:05 PM.
07 February 2010, 06:14 PM
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funny mine runs 0.9bar(checked on a.jefferies r/r)is standard ecu wise with no bleed valves etc..
with my other bits up to 260.1 bhp now from 208 when i got it.
there was a thread on here not long ago stating how much psi each type of scooby runs standard and what the fuel cut off was.
with my other bits up to 260.1 bhp now from 208 when i got it.
there was a thread on here not long ago stating how much psi each type of scooby runs standard and what the fuel cut off was.
Last edited by rifleman; 07 February 2010 at 06:15 PM.
. Needs a JGM, or similar, to comment.
07 February 2010, 11:05 PM
#15
Big jessie.I have had a lot of problems with it lately, changed the maff put a standard airbox back on, cleaned idle valve and boost solenoid. (after advice from yourself) checked boost hoses.
After all that i'm being cheated out my boost
07 February 2010, 11:08 PM
#16
Yeah get a clear stretch of motorway and let the beast rip lol. You'll soon get an idea of where the boost is. Be aware that in this cooler weather yuo could get more boost occaissionaly as the ECU sees nice cold dense air and so long as it's getting no anomonlies coming into it via all the sensors, then it could momentarily give you a bit more BCS duty for a brief period.
Do a few runs (if you have enough room, etc) and you should get a good mean or average reading....
Do a few runs (if you have enough room, etc) and you should get a good mean or average reading....
07 February 2010, 11:24 PM
#18
Thing is how much resolution has your gauge got?
If it's a 52mm rather than a 60mm one and has BAR unit's instead of PSI then the spacing between/amount of each marking will be that much smaller/less. Factor in a 'fat' needle too and a generally cheap, inaccurate gauge, and it could easily indicate 0.6bar, when perhaps it should indicate 0.7 or more, IYSWIM...
If it's a 52mm rather than a 60mm one and has BAR unit's instead of PSI then the spacing between/amount of each marking will be that much smaller/less. Factor in a 'fat' needle too and a generally cheap, inaccurate gauge, and it could easily indicate 0.6bar, when perhaps it should indicate 0.7 or more, IYSWIM...
08 February 2010, 09:48 AM
#19
My gauge is a 52mm with a 1.5 bar gauge, skinny needle though.
I gave it a bit on the motorway and it went no higher than 0.6 bar to be fair keeping it there was a bit of a struggle it averaged half way between 0.5 - 0.6 bar
I am starting to think I may have a problem would my decat affect the boost? what should I be checking/replacing?
I gave it a bit on the motorway and it went no higher than 0.6 bar to be fair keeping it there was a bit of a struggle it averaged half way between 0.5 - 0.6 bar
I am starting to think I may have a problem would my decat affect the boost? what should I be checking/replacing?
08 February 2010, 11:42 AM
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https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...uestion-2.html
Read from page 2 in this link. It may help you.
Read from page 2 in this link. It may help you.
08 February 2010, 09:53 PM
#25
Only joking answers not required to that
https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...uestion-2.html
Read from page 2 in this link. It may help you.
Read from page 2 in this link. It may help you.
09 February 2010, 03:56 PM
#26
You need to be in 4th gear to check your boost on a five speed box.
Start around 1700 rpm and foot to the floor in 4th.
With your car you need to run past 5,500 rpm.
What max boost did you see and at what revs and what had it dropped to by say 6k rpm.
Subject to what you come back with, lots of scope for improvements without a lot of expenditure.
Start around 1700 rpm and foot to the floor in 4th.
With your car you need to run past 5,500 rpm.
What max boost did you see and at what revs and what had it dropped to by say 6k rpm.
Subject to what you come back with, lots of scope for improvements without a lot of expenditure.
09 February 2010, 04:01 PM
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Thing is how much resolution has your gauge got?
If it's a 52mm rather than a 60mm one and has BAR unit's instead of PSI then the spacing between/amount of each marking will be that much smaller/less. Factor in a 'fat' needle too and a generally cheap, inaccurate gauge, and it could easily indicate 0.6bar, when perhaps it should indicate 0.7 or more, IYSWIM...
If it's a 52mm rather than a 60mm one and has BAR unit's instead of PSI then the spacing between/amount of each marking will be that much smaller/less. Factor in a 'fat' needle too and a generally cheap, inaccurate gauge, and it could easily indicate 0.6bar, when perhaps it should indicate 0.7 or more, IYSWIM...
Dont forget to factor in Parallax error!
10 February 2010, 08:18 AM
#28
You need to be in 4th gear to check your boost on a five speed box.
Start around 1700 rpm and foot to the floor in 4th.
With your car you need to run past 5,500 rpm.
What max boost did you see and at what revs and what had it dropped to by say 6k rpm.
Subject to what you come back with, lots of scope for improvements without a lot of expenditure.
Start around 1700 rpm and foot to the floor in 4th.
With your car you need to run past 5,500 rpm.
What max boost did you see and at what revs and what had it dropped to by say 6k rpm.
Subject to what you come back with, lots of scope for improvements without a lot of expenditure.
WTF is parallax error Myles, surely you have just made that up lol
PS if anyone sees me this morning I'm not speeding I'm boost testing lol
10 February 2010, 12:24 PM
#29
"Parallax error" is caused when not viewing something from dead in front. It can cause the needles on gauges to under-, or over-read.
It is more prevalent when the needle is a greater distance off the gauge face. A gauge whose needle TOUCHED the face, ie: lay on it, would exhibit no parallax error.
To experience parallax for yourself, set up two pencils, for example, so as when you view them, one is behind the other. A distance of abour 5cm between them will do.
Now, wiothout moving the pencils, simply move your head to one side, or the other. See how the pencils now appear to separate? That's parallax error.
It is more prevalent when the needle is a greater distance off the gauge face. A gauge whose needle TOUCHED the face, ie: lay on it, would exhibit no parallax error.
To experience parallax for yourself, set up two pencils, for example, so as when you view them, one is behind the other. A distance of abour 5cm between them will do.
Now, wiothout moving the pencils, simply move your head to one side, or the other. See how the pencils now appear to separate? That's parallax error.
