Coolant Issues, where does this pipe go?
#1
was coolant issues, now headgasket questions.....
Having some coolant issues with my '97 jap wrx. She's pressurising the coolant and blowing it out the overflow anytime she hits boost, but there are no other signs of headgasket failure.
I reckon im looking at a minor headgasket leak, or maybe even a minor crack in the head.
Any other thoughts?
Anyway, what i wanted to ask, on the overflow theres a 1inch diameter pipe out the bottom of it, which leads into the passenger side wing. Can anyone tell me where this leads? is it just an overflow pipe? or is there some kind of reservior in there, or does it go round to the rear of the engine?
cheers folks, dont have time to remove the splash guard to look myself
I reckon im looking at a minor headgasket leak, or maybe even a minor crack in the head.
Any other thoughts?
Anyway, what i wanted to ask, on the overflow theres a 1inch diameter pipe out the bottom of it, which leads into the passenger side wing. Can anyone tell me where this leads? is it just an overflow pipe? or is there some kind of reservior in there, or does it go round to the rear of the engine?
cheers folks, dont have time to remove the splash guard to look myself
Last edited by PhilG86; 04 March 2010 at 11:34 AM.
#3
Cheers Pete
does this reservoir have a lid? or an overflow pipe out of it?
I put the garden hose down the overflow pipe beside the battery when i was flushing the system and i heard/seen water flowing out from my wing, where this 'secret' reservoir is.
does this reservoir have a lid? or an overflow pipe out of it?
I put the garden hose down the overflow pipe beside the battery when i was flushing the system and i heard/seen water flowing out from my wing, where this 'secret' reservoir is.
#4
The pipe from the header tank leads directly to the expansion/overflow reservoir in front of the battery. The reservoir is linked to a secondary 'bladder' reservoir hidden in the passenger wing, thus acting a bit like a toilet's U-bend, IYSWIM.
BTW, it does sound like a HG failure (only has to be the tiniest fracture to lift up on boost (this happened to me!). Or it could be an erroneous airlock?
BTW, it does sound like a HG failure (only has to be the tiniest fracture to lift up on boost (this happened to me!). Or it could be an erroneous airlock?
Last edited by joz8968; 28 February 2010 at 12:56 PM.
#5
Dont think its an airlock, done about 4 coolant changes now, using various coolant additives in an attempt to block the HG leak. All failures
Next stage, headgasket swap i think, few questions though:
Is it possible to do the Headgaskets with the engine in situ in this car?
Are these engine prone to head warping? or head cracking?
And how possible or likely is it to get away without a pressure test/skim? only wet&dry the surface face of the head?
are the head bolts stretchy bolt? or reuseable?
lots of questions, sorry folks!
Next stage, headgasket swap i think, few questions though:
Is it possible to do the Headgaskets with the engine in situ in this car?
Are these engine prone to head warping? or head cracking?
And how possible or likely is it to get away without a pressure test/skim? only wet&dry the surface face of the head?
are the head bolts stretchy bolt? or reuseable?
lots of questions, sorry folks!
#6
Is it possible to do the Headgaskets with the engine in situ in this car?
Are these engine prone to head warping? or head cracking?
And how possible or likely is it to get away without a pressure test/skim? only wet&dry the surface face of the head?
are the head bolts stretchy bolt? or reuseable?
lots of questions, sorry folks!
Last edited by joz8968; 04 March 2010 at 12:42 PM.
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#9
and if it is still blowing more and more then maybe go for an old fashion block test not these new eletronice sniffer test as there a bag of shi"t the old liquid test to see if it changes colour any good garage should do this for free
#10
Also OP - and you're not gonna like this - being a 97, I assume it's got well over 50k miles on her?
If so, most specialists recommend on doing the bottom end (new bearings... and maybe pistons/rods/honed bores!) - as well as the HGs!
The reason being, that the new HG/s will have restored the CR back to it's former factory-fresh glory - thus putting lot's more pressure on, an otherwise, much weakened bottom end...
If so, most specialists recommend on doing the bottom end (new bearings... and maybe pistons/rods/honed bores!) - as well as the HGs!
The reason being, that the new HG/s will have restored the CR back to it's former factory-fresh glory - thus putting lot's more pressure on, an otherwise, much weakened bottom end...
Last edited by joz8968; 04 March 2010 at 01:11 PM.
#14
started stripping engine to lift out, surprisingly easy to strip her down, reckon ill have it out in another hour, total time from start to out will be 2hr 30mins. Not bad considering ive only done a few engine swaps before on different cars.
@happydude, i fill it to approx 1inch below the top of header tank. Blows out between 1 and 2 litres every drive. still no overheating or exhaust smoke, or oil/water mixing.
and yep, got a chemical/liquid sniff test done a few days ago, turned colour immediately to yellow.
@joz, yeah, 150,000km's on her .... but sack that ****, gonna take a steel rule to the mating surface of the head, if thats straight, cool, give her a clean down and light wipe with 1500grit wet&dry. Just want her running so i can sell her at this stage, she's breaking my heart
@JDM stig, yep, new cap was my first port of call, old one was missing the rubber altogether!
So, new questions,
Is there a length tolerance for the headbolts to see if they're reusable? I have no haynes manual here or spec list, nothing fancy like that, you guys are my only source of info
An do you use an instant gasket silicon on the new headgasket and/or mating surfaces? or just leave bare metal on gasket?
Only cars ive done engine swaps and headgaskets on before were several 306 Dturbos, this is my first petrol turbo, so just want to be sure about things.
Cheers lads.
@happydude, i fill it to approx 1inch below the top of header tank. Blows out between 1 and 2 litres every drive. still no overheating or exhaust smoke, or oil/water mixing.
and yep, got a chemical/liquid sniff test done a few days ago, turned colour immediately to yellow.
@joz, yeah, 150,000km's on her .... but sack that ****, gonna take a steel rule to the mating surface of the head, if thats straight, cool, give her a clean down and light wipe with 1500grit wet&dry. Just want her running so i can sell her at this stage, she's breaking my heart
@JDM stig, yep, new cap was my first port of call, old one was missing the rubber altogether!
So, new questions,
Is there a length tolerance for the headbolts to see if they're reusable? I have no haynes manual here or spec list, nothing fancy like that, you guys are my only source of info
An do you use an instant gasket silicon on the new headgasket and/or mating surfaces? or just leave bare metal on gasket?
Only cars ive done engine swaps and headgaskets on before were several 306 Dturbos, this is my first petrol turbo, so just want to be sure about things.
Cheers lads.
#15
Phil, I have an OEM 0.9bar cap I can post out to you for free. It was working fine - I just replaced it with a new one when I was trying to rule out my coolant problems about 18 mths ago,. The cap was fine in the end.
I also have a Buddy Club 1.3bar one too - these fetch about £30+ on eBay, but seeing as it would help a fellow member out, you can have it for a tenner.
Personally, I'd take the free 0.9bar one, as the pressure in a proper working coolant system should not get to that anyway... let alone 1.3bar!
I also have a Buddy Club 1.3bar one too - these fetch about £30+ on eBay, but seeing as it would help a fellow member out, you can have it for a tenner.
Personally, I'd take the free 0.9bar one, as the pressure in a proper working coolant system should not get to that anyway... let alone 1.3bar!
Last edited by joz8968; 05 March 2010 at 10:30 AM.
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