krisando

iTrader: (2)

Hi to all, I have a problem with my99 uk turbo. It seems to smell quite rich upon starting, and it smokes a bit, light in colour. It runs fine, with no pull or stuttering from under the bonnet. Its confusing but id rather have the pice of mind.

Its running on vpower, stainless de-cat system, blitz induction kit and done 105000 mls. Any ideas? Hopefully something that aint going to cost the earth. Soldiers wages are crap!

corradoboy

98-00 cars don't do too well with induction kits, the vibration kills the MAF. Is the idle uneven, or have you noticed a drop-off in power in the mid-range (around 4k) ? You could do an ECU reset which might bring up a fault code, and will almost definitely highlight a failing MAF.

Scoobypedia | Trusted knowledge for everything Subaru | Knowledge / Reading ECU Fault Codes

krisando

iTrader: (2)

No loss of power and idle is still as good as when i bought her 18 months ago. I had the check engine light came on a while ago due to a goosed caliper, 3 different machines hooked up, and none of them could connect with the car. The cars been running fine. Its a bit strange!

360ste

iTrader: (1)

What have you fittd or changed since purchase? If you have put the induction kit on then if possible reverting back to see if the problem is resolved could be a option. You say a number of machinnes have been connected, have you put it in for a rolling road diagnostics as this would highlight any issues.

krisando

iTrader: (2)

The only thing i have fitted is the induction kit, which i took off in november for winter, and re-fitted 3 weeks ago. its been like this for over 6 weeks now. No rolling road done yet, but may be worth thinking about.

corradoboy

Not sure how an ECU diagnostic detected a goosed caliper, but an ECU reset should highlight if any of the many induction/exhaust sensors is failing. The 'learning' ECU continually adjusts to attain optimum running, but in doing so it can mask a failing component. Sudden failures are usually caught, but gradual breakdowns are simply adjusted and catered for as the ECU does its stuff. By resetting to default, a sensor that has been degrading will stand out as being wildly out of expected parameters, and you don't need to connect anything to the car to check this. Follow the guide I posted above using the connectors under the steering binnacle to force a reset, then read the CEL flashes to attain the fault code and check against the list.

I stand by what I said about the I/K though. They don't help on relatively standard Scoobs, potentially compromising performance by scavenging for air under the bonnet, and what it does get is both hot and dirty, along with the potential for failure due to MAF vibration damage. The OE intake with a panel filter is extremely well designed and good for up to and over 350bhp. Until you run a MAF-less FMIC set-up, leave I/K's alone IMHO.

krisando

iTrader: (2)

The diagnostic wouldnt connect to the car, but my local garage reckoned it was the abs sensor. which has been sorted. Will do the checks 2morrow, and maybe convert back to original airbox with k+n filter.

krisando

iTrader: (2)

Thanx for the advice! appreciated

midnight

iTrader: (10)

It might well be the lambda sensor as this wont flash up a check engine light on normal day to day running ,because of the low voltage it uses.However if you do a master reset it will flash up code 32 if the lambda sensor is faulty.

krisando

iTrader: (2)

Thanx for the tip mate, will check tommorow. fingers crossed all is well!

krisando

iTrader: (2)

To all those who offered advice, thanks! Just did the diagnostic check, and came up with these 2 codes, 22-knock sensor, and 23-maf sensor circuit.

Did the ecu reset as per corradoboys tip, and its reset, will check it later for the smokey bit.

Massive thanks for the links and advice, much appreciated.

kris

corradoboy

Keep it steady until you've fixed it. There's a chance it will be running lean and that could lead to DET and potentially engine failure. If you order a new MAF make sure you order just the MAF sensor for about £90, and not the sensor AND housing which is much more expensive. Many people with 98-00 cars fit a new MAF as part of their routine servicing, maybe annually, but certainly at least bi-annually.

Splitpin

As has already been said the induction kit is a majorly bad idea. Refit the standard airbox, resonator and K&N filter and leave it like that, although it sounds like you already have a fecked airflow sensor. Hopefully it hasn't caused any serious damage to the engine at this point.

As has already been said that is literally impossible. A brake problem (even an ABS fault) will not illuminate the check engine light, period. If the CEL came on, it's because something went wrong with the engine.

That's because you've presumably been connecting OBDII computers to it but your car isn't OBDII compatible. It has the plug, but the actual language it speaks is Subaru-specific so generic diagnostic tools won't connect. You need a proper Subaru Select Monitor (or something that emulates one) to diagnose it.

One unfortunate reality is that a failing MAF sensor (either as a result of an induction kit or other reason) will often not give any obvious symptoms, and indeed will often feel better or faster than normal.

The code 22 fault is often caused by the failing MAF so it is not necessarily certain at this point that the knock sensor has also gone. If you have a multimeter and the knowledge to use it you can test the sensor - so ask if you'd like to know how.

In the meantime, heed Corradoboy's warning completely. If the option's open to you, the best way to drive your car at the moment is not at all, until you have the new airflow meter fitted.

If you must use it, drive as gingerly and gently as you can and under no circumstances take it onto boost.

Once you have the new AFM fitted, reset the ECU again and see if the code 22 returns. If it does, you need a knew knock sensor.

The smoke may unfortunately be early signs of engine damage so pay close attention to it and if in doubt either ask here or get your car looked at by someone with the experience to know what they're seeing. If there is already piston damage, the repair bill is always smaller the earlier it's rectified.

krisando

iTrader: (2)

Cheers for the tip, will look into it today, and hopefully sort it by the end of the month.