WHAT PARTS WOULD BE NEEDED
#1
WHAT PARTS WOULD BE NEEDED
What engine parts would be needed to uprate my 2006 STI so that it would be more reliable for track days and where would be the best place to buy them as a good friend of mine is a good engine builder and would put it together for me, i may be jumping the gun but better to be safe than sorry, cheers steve.
#3
Bumping your thread after less than half an hour is taking the p*ss in a major way. What sort of sense do you think the forum would make if everyone did that?
I was going to add something but given the above I'll wait a bit in the hope it'll teach you the value of patience.
I was going to add something but given the above I'll wait a bit in the hope it'll teach you the value of patience.
#7
BTTT lol
Higher temp oil (as per your other thread)
Quality clamps on your pipes
Zero Sports 71dg opening Thermostat to help cooling
Why is it better to be safe than sorry ? use it, abuse it, rebuild it. Better off getting the handling sorted to keep you on track than worrying about an engine failure that may never come !
Higher temp oil (as per your other thread)
Quality clamps on your pipes
Zero Sports 71dg opening Thermostat to help cooling
Why is it better to be safe than sorry ? use it, abuse it, rebuild it. Better off getting the handling sorted to keep you on track than worrying about an engine failure that may never come !
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#8
Right, suppose an hour'll do...
First thing you should probably tell us is what sort of state of tune your car's in, whether or not you're new to the track lark, and whether you're planning on using road or slickish tyres Steve. All of the below's written on the assumption that you're newish, your car's standard-ish and you'll be on road rubber:
53's largely on the money. However I wouldn't have said the thermostat change would be worthwhile. You'll be making plenty of airflow on the track so cooling shouldn't be an issue, at first at least.
As far as oil goes, the one thing you don't necessarily want to be do is turn up at the track with six month old, black cruddy oil in. Best approach is usually to change it before a hard day's running, and, depending on what it looks like afterwards, possibly again. However provided you're on a sensible change schedule to start with and your engine's in good nick, that shouldn't be necessary.
Brakes - if you're on standard-ish compounds, you'll probably realise how unsuited they are for multple quick stops. Ditto the fluid.
Also, if you haven't already got them, it'd be well worth fitting oil temp, pressure and knock monitoring kit. Hard use on the track will quickly point up any deficiencies or low level trouble with the car, and point the way to possible future mods - which may include oil cooler, baffled sump etc etc.
If this is your first trackday the most important thing is just to make sure everything on the car's as tip-top as it can be. Shouldn't be any specific reliability issues if that's the case. Once you've done one you'll be much more aware of what needs doing to make the next one better/more enjoyable.
First thing you should probably tell us is what sort of state of tune your car's in, whether or not you're new to the track lark, and whether you're planning on using road or slickish tyres Steve. All of the below's written on the assumption that you're newish, your car's standard-ish and you'll be on road rubber:
53's largely on the money. However I wouldn't have said the thermostat change would be worthwhile. You'll be making plenty of airflow on the track so cooling shouldn't be an issue, at first at least.
As far as oil goes, the one thing you don't necessarily want to be do is turn up at the track with six month old, black cruddy oil in. Best approach is usually to change it before a hard day's running, and, depending on what it looks like afterwards, possibly again. However provided you're on a sensible change schedule to start with and your engine's in good nick, that shouldn't be necessary.
Brakes - if you're on standard-ish compounds, you'll probably realise how unsuited they are for multple quick stops. Ditto the fluid.
Also, if you haven't already got them, it'd be well worth fitting oil temp, pressure and knock monitoring kit. Hard use on the track will quickly point up any deficiencies or low level trouble with the car, and point the way to possible future mods - which may include oil cooler, baffled sump etc etc.
If this is your first trackday the most important thing is just to make sure everything on the car's as tip-top as it can be. Shouldn't be any specific reliability issues if that's the case. Once you've done one you'll be much more aware of what needs doing to make the next one better/more enjoyable.
#9
Cheers SPLITPIN i have done a couple or so track days nothing to hard on the car though, my 06 STI has godspeed 2 piece discs with braided hoses all round with PF pads, also got rear 22mm adjustable anti roll bar, prodrive springs, camber bolts and set up by Chevron motorsport, oh and a re-map by JGM to 340 bhp, rubber RE 070 but i have just bought a set of speedline turino with pirelli p zero corsa rubber and hopefully will be trying them out on the 26th of aprill at bedford, the reason i ask about the rebuild cost is that the 2.5 is surposed to the weakest of the engines, cheers steve.
#10
Its fine running your power (and a chunk more) Steve
- Oil cooler would be top of my list.
- Oil catch can too as that will help protect from the oil going through the inlet when on higher G right hand bends - it builds up in the cylinder head. (this reduces octane and may cause det)
- Baffled sump would be a good idea or a cosworth baffle plate at least.
Apart from that I wouldnt bother unless you are thinking of taking over 400 bhp and that is a world of money away with drop in pistons, clutch, turbo, fmic, fuel system changes etc. For track days i really don't think it is worth it.
Run as it is but with better management of oil and breathing.
A fuel surge solution would be a good idea - swirl pot is best for that.
HTH - don't believe the scaremongerers.
- Oil cooler would be top of my list.
- Oil catch can too as that will help protect from the oil going through the inlet when on higher G right hand bends - it builds up in the cylinder head. (this reduces octane and may cause det)
- Baffled sump would be a good idea or a cosworth baffle plate at least.
Apart from that I wouldnt bother unless you are thinking of taking over 400 bhp and that is a world of money away with drop in pistons, clutch, turbo, fmic, fuel system changes etc. For track days i really don't think it is worth it.
Run as it is but with better management of oil and breathing.
A fuel surge solution would be a good idea - swirl pot is best for that.
HTH - don't believe the scaremongerers.
#12
I use Millers 10/50 CFS from Alyn at ASP - works perfectly for me.
Catch can wise - something like the RCM one would be good with 3 inputs. Would make you see how much oil is being collected on high g corners you can then look to plumb that in to drain it to the sump to keep it a closed system. Not cheap but a worthy precaution for track use particularly on the 2.5 that beathes a little heavier than the earlier cars anyway.
Catch can wise - something like the RCM one would be good with 3 inputs. Would make you see how much oil is being collected on high g corners you can then look to plumb that in to drain it to the sump to keep it a closed system. Not cheap but a worthy precaution for track use particularly on the 2.5 that beathes a little heavier than the earlier cars anyway.
#13
If you don't have the opportunity to get the oil cooler sorted soon, a low temp thermostat actually works quite well at bringing oil temps down, as they factory oil cooler is reliant on the main coolant system. So a 5 degree drop in coolant temperature will more often than not result in a 5 degree drop in oil temperature.
As duncan mentions the main things to keep in mind revolve around reliability rather than power.
As duncan mentions the main things to keep in mind revolve around reliability rather than power.
#14
If you don't have the opportunity to get the oil cooler sorted soon, a low temp thermostat actually works quite well at bringing oil temps down, as they factory oil cooler is reliant on the main coolant system. So a 5 degree drop in coolant temperature will more often than not result in a 5 degree drop in oil temperature.
Running without the undertray also does a decent job of cooling it - quick fix on the day if temps become a issue ?
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