basically driving along at 30mph today when the car felt like it started missfiring, it just didnt feel as responsive, so i pulled into a lay by and the car stalled. stunk of fuel and wouldnt start again.

pulled it apart earlier and the cambelt had some slack in it. re timed it all up, and started first time but now just doesnt sound right and stinks of fuel, literally pissing out the exhaust. car starts and idles fine, engine is quiet. am i right in finking an exhaust valve is bent?

 

Ah, I take it this thread is related to your other one asking about EJ207 valves and shims?

The engine's an interference design so there might be valve damage, but it all depends on how much slippage you've had, need to disassemble to be sure. When you say you re-timed it, do you know how far out it was? If you're sure it's right now, and there's unburnt petrol leaving the exhaust in quantity, then yes, valve damage, in addition to possible other stuff.

If the timing belt has slipped then

1) Your tensioner, or at least one of the idlers has failed
2) The belt may well have sustained damage

In either of the above case (let alone both) it'll happen again unless you replace the faulty bits

 

yer thats what it was about. tons of un burnt petrol, engines only recently put in, all new parts. guessing they timed it with too much slack on the non tensioner side as everythings fine as i retimed it earlier perfectly.

rip it apart again. great... dont think nothing else would be damaged.

repaired a few cars with snapped cambelts with all 16 valves bent, and even with clipped pistons they ran for the life of the car

 

If it was assembled with slack on the tensioner side, that would be immediately taken up as the engine was turned by hand and the cams would be the 'slack' amount advanced.
One tooth of slackness would have been quite noticable on initial assembly.
If it has jumped a tooth or two, it must have been at the crank as the cam sprockets have guides which would stop the belt lifting enough to allow jump. (that's assuming the guides were adjusted correctly on assembly)
Was the old tensioner used at the re-build? If so, there's a specific procedure for compressing the tensioner piston and re-inserting the restraining pin. One must assume they remembered to pull the pin after re-assembly

JohnD

 

Can't you dump this problem on the engine builder?

 

Surely the engine is still under some kind of warrenty? Also its more than likely that the hydraulic damper has failed. It requires to work under a certain load and if they did not test it then it may be spongy and allow your belt to jump. The valves work in a tight sequence where they occupy the same space at diferent times. If the belt jumped and the cams lost sync they would almost deffinatly be bent.

 

i didnt say on the tensioner side

oh well its one of those things, not a big job, only thing thats tricky is getting the correct shiming.