Right I`m new to the Scoobie scene, and have just bought a Classic WRX import for the grand total of £500 with a dead engine. The previous owner is a mate and the head gasket went, to which he rebuilt it with race bearings etc etc, then had the heads skimmed by his mate, one head was ok with one skim, the other needed apparently 5!! So when it started ran for a few miles then sounds like con-rod has snapped.

So I`m after a new engine EJ20, not going for an EJ25, wanna keep her standard for now.

What I want to know is what should I do the the new engine and the Scoob while its out?? I`m planning on doing cambelt and tensioners, full oil change, plugs and usual stuff.

BUT anything else I should do??

Been thinking FMIC, also decat downpipe, but putting a UK spec centre cat on. Also Walbro fuel pump, and turbo timer.

ANYTHING thats of merit and not breaking the bank, and is a worthwhile change please let me know (also where to get them from).

I`m a decent mechanic and am used to doing my own mechanics engine changes etc etc having a 251bhp Vectra B 6-speed, which has dropped a valve. So will be using the Scoobie as a daily driver till I`ve sorted the Vec. Then I can take my time with the scoob and get her back to her former glory (in a bit of a state at the moment to be fair).


So any help is greatly appreciated.
James.

 

New water pump? If it's done any bearings, uprated oil pump and NEW modine.

 

The engine inside is going to be rebuilt over time or used for spares.
Will be getting a second hand running engine hopefully, so should be a straight swap one out one in. But was thinking as the engine would be out, what could I do, and what should I do??

Have heard its good to upgrade oil pump??

 

As you are going to do the timing belt you might aswell do the oil pump. When I had my cambelt changed it was only 15 minutes extra work to fit the Oil pump.

 

Was that a standard oil pump or an uprated one??

 

Uprated item, I don't think there is any external difference in the pumps.

 

If you're thinking about "keeping it standard" there's no point fitting an FMIC, although if you've got a very early car there might be some merit in fitting a better top mount.. Turbo timers are largely just a way to separate the ill-informed from his money so no need to shell out on one of those either.

Might help if you told us what model year this car was - at least then someone who knows that model's specific good and bad points will be able to chip in. Until then, advice is going to be a bit generic.

 

Right it`s an import on a 1995 M plate.



Has the individual coil pack engine at present (I`m assuming as I can`t see leads an coil pack on the top).



Also when I meant stay standard was on about internals, I would like to be around the 300bhp mark if thats possible.

And reason for fitting a turbo timer was mainly so I can walk away and leave her running, and then have it switch off on its own (sad I know). And FMIC was that the cooler I can run things the better imho, an uprated top mounted one I have thought about, but front mounts would do a better job I think.

 

Should be able to reach that figure without issue on the standard internals, and turbo.

It's not sad, it's actually counterproductive. Leaving the car idling at a standstill makes it get hotter, not colder. These things literally are a waste of time and money on an Impreza - with the possible exception of one fitted with an aftermarket oil cooled turbo.

That's not actually the correct way to think about it. If the standard IC or a replacement top mount does a job good enough for the turbo and power level you're at, fitting a front mount doesn't actually gain you anything worthwhile as far as charge cooling is concerned, and in the process greatly increases the volume of the induction tract between the turbo and throttle plate, which compromises throttle response and is therefore something better avoided if you have the option.

Everything in this area, and ultimately getting the best car on the road, is a compromise between competing considerations. A front mount IC may notionally cool the charge a little more efficiently, but as above it has a cost elsewhere. And that's without even considering that many of the front mount intercoolers sold cheap nowadays are horribly inefficient and therefore don't even cool the charge as well as the TMIC.

 

Cheers mate that does make sense.

Righty then. So a better tmic would be better, would a newer one with a y piece be any good or should I go for an STI version. Then what will fit??

If you were to talk about Vauxhall V6`s then I can tell you off the top of my head, but scoobs I`ve a LOT to learn!!

 

Defo better top mount if you only want 300bhp

I just fitted a V5 STI topmount to my 95 WRX RA, they provide much better cooling

Ideally you'd want to go new age TMIC, but with the pre facelifts theres massive clearence issues, massive in the fact theres no room! 96 cars onwards had redesigned throttle bodies and inlet manifolds to adopt the bigger and better IC's. The new age IC's can be squeezed into those later classics at a push, but i think our earlier ones just dont have the room unless you really modify the actual IC, like cutting bits off and welding up

The one i have, V5, is a good compromise in that its way better at cooling, although flow is somewhat lacking, but still a massive gain on the slanty. But as said at 300bhp a V5 will be well under its capabilities. Also take into consideration Version 3,4 coolers too they dont cool as well as a V5 but flow a little better.

Also read that the STI coolers (Classic versions) are only very marginally better than their WRX counterparts, but the sti coolers come with much better piping (metal) that flows better and will be easier to adapt to your/our model cars

I even read somewhere that a legacy twin turbo TMIC is one of the best classic TMIC out there??? Just to add, i think V5 and V6 coolers are the same, hope someone can confirm for you.

 

Thats just made me more confused lol.
Tbh if there is the clearance issues then surely the FMIC would be the way to go?? What sort of power is achievable on a standard engine IE non forged??
As eventually I`ll get the tuning bug as I do with every car I have owned!!

 

Yeah it is said that early classics are better off being front mounted, due to the clearence issues.

I was going on the fact you said you only want 300bhp

But front mounts bring their own dissadvantages as Splitpin mentioned. Also a decent one will set you back £300, then the price of an induction kit. Also a remap if you have an aftermarket ecu, if you dont have one you'll more than likely need one, especially if you want to then go further.

I think 350bhp has been done but i wouldnt push that far on standard internals

 

Need to get her running before I get carried away lol.

 

I'll agree hands down with the FMIC problems I've just converted a blokes back to top mount cause the turbo Lag drove the bloke daft. He's now a much happier man

Craig

 

Right so If I get a larger tmic which one should I go for??

Anyone got an ebay ad I could look at??

 

Version 3,4,5, or 6 will fit with a few adjustments.

7 onwards will take serious modification/fabrication

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SUBARU-IMPREZA...item19b63a1513

Just a wrx one one but only marginally inferior to an sti of the same version

 

sti v5 - v6 http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Subaru-Impreza...item335c260a97

I'd probably not bother fitting a larger top mount due to the hassle of trying to fit as its not just as simple as dropping it in place

 

Thats silly priced! Mines in better nick and i payed £60 though i did help fit the front mount that it was replaced for lol

Seen them go for £80-100 most of the time

 

Or my newage WRX intercooler £30 delivered

 

Cheers guys more to ponder over and think about!!

Have you any pics?? Also if I get a new age one I`ll have to change the dump valve I have too wouldn`t I?? As mine is on the end of a pipe and the newer ones have them on the intercooler themselves.

 

What about headers and downpipes??

I know I have a cat in the downpipe, could replace the headers and up pipe and also put a 100cell downpipe on. Would that be enough to pass an mot emissions test??