Can anyone explain to me why a new cone filter / induction kit isn't worth it?

And why keeping the standard air box with an uprated panel filter is better?

Thanks

 

What you may gain in extra airflow with a cone, is all but negated beacuse an open cone is not insulated away from the underbonnet heat. Hot air = less densely packed oxygen molecules = less fuel can be burnt = less power/torque.

Also a cone can adversely affect the MAF's output voltage readings, instructing the ECU to underfuel and run lean. The MAF should be rescaled with a cone - e.g. in a remap - to give the correct "scaled" voltage values for the amount of air the MAF is actually metering. Or, if not scaled, at least checked on a rolling road for the AFR values... or even better checked with w/b lambda and det cans.

 

as said unless you are going to insulate the cone filter from heat you will be far better off using an uprated panel filter i use a genuine sti panel filter in mine and benefit from more torque by using it i think you will find that subaru's original air intake design is very effective and there isnt really much benefits from an induction kit unless you are going to go for the full ticket.

 

Worthwhile removing the standard resonator box and replacing with a cold air feed up to the OE airbox...

 

My airbox maxed out at 280bhp on my classic which had a green cotton filter. With all the other mods done to this point the only move was an induction kit. Once installed i gained 30bhp once it was mapped in.

 

Later airboxes are less restrictive - The OP has a 1999/00 model IIRC

 

Not to shabby!

So lets use 280 BHP as the air box limit, after that change to an induction, but surely this has a limit too.

What are people using on 500+ BHP cars?

Thanks

 

Not quite sure they are restrictive to 280, I know of people who have 350 on standard box

 

When you go beyond the OEM's TMIC airflow limit, you would normally move to FMIC (de rigeur with 500+ bhp obviously) - so a cone CAIK would have to be fitted due to lack of space, regardless. The cone is not going to be restricitve if big enough (and also assuming the MAF doesn't resrict aiflow, etc.).

Despite a cone being open to hot air (if it is), then in the above scenario it would be accounted for anyway, due to the necessary remap required...

 

Depends on your future modifications you plan to be honest...

If you plan on fitting a induction kit. As advised get an enclosed 1 to shield from hot air.

The only thing you'll gain from fitting an open filter will be a load of hot air

Sayin that, aren't the MAF's on newer classics more prone to failure once fitting filters

Good luck with whatever you choose

 

I have been told that from the MY93 - MY 96 are a stronger maf and less prone to fail using an induction kit.

 

Yes that's right. Also the MY97/98 have the same style strong MAF. Rare for the MY93-98 to go wrong.

It's the MY99/00 "cassette" hot-film style ones that can suffer when fitting an induction kit. Best to replace the MAF at the same time for these MYs.