ECU question
#1
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Hi, can anyone help me please?
I've been having problems with my classic 95 WRX starting, it will turn over but not start!
I've had it in at my local garage but they can't seem to find out what's wrong with it, and have said that it may be my ECU.
My question is....if I change the ECU on my classic 95 WRX, is it just the Z4 number that is relevant when looking for a replacement or do all the numbers need to be identical?
Also, if anyone knows of a decent mechanic in the Herts area that may be able to help me please let me know.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks
Carleen
I've been having problems with my classic 95 WRX starting, it will turn over but not start!
I've had it in at my local garage but they can't seem to find out what's wrong with it, and have said that it may be my ECU.
My question is....if I change the ECU on my classic 95 WRX, is it just the Z4 number that is relevant when looking for a replacement or do all the numbers need to be identical?
Also, if anyone knows of a decent mechanic in the Herts area that may be able to help me please let me know.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks
Carleen
#2
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iTrader: (13)
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You can fit any 4-plug MY93-96 WRX or STi saloon's - or STi wagon's - ECU, as the map is designed to run the TD05H 16g turbo, for at least 240PS.
But you're better off sticking to either the WRX MY95/96 "Z4" as it's the 2nd best for power (260PS) - which is what you're used to after all!
- or the "top of the tree" STi v.2's "6K" at 275PS (if you can find one!)...
But you're better off sticking to either the WRX MY95/96 "Z4" as it's the 2nd best for power (260PS) - which is what you're used to after all!
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Last edited by joz8968; 19 May 2010 at 08:35 PM.
#5
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Thanks for your replies!
The car was running fine until one evening I was leaving work and I got in the car and it turned over but would not fire! Called out greenflag who got it running by holding the accelerator flat to the floor while cranking. Then it run fine for a couple of days and did exactly the same 3 days later. Got it started again the same way so took the car for a run, was working perfectly then stopped to get some fuel and then the car was firing up but sounded like it was only running on 2 or 3 cylinders with no power at all, just kept stalling when trying to pull away! Then.....got towed home, went to lock the car up and the whole alarm system had packed up too! Couldn't lock the car with the key fob and the car wouldn't immobilise. BAD TIMES![Frown](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/frown.gif)
Any ideas as to what's wrong are greatly appreciated!
The car was running fine until one evening I was leaving work and I got in the car and it turned over but would not fire! Called out greenflag who got it running by holding the accelerator flat to the floor while cranking. Then it run fine for a couple of days and did exactly the same 3 days later. Got it started again the same way so took the car for a run, was working perfectly then stopped to get some fuel and then the car was firing up but sounded like it was only running on 2 or 3 cylinders with no power at all, just kept stalling when trying to pull away! Then.....got towed home, went to lock the car up and the whole alarm system had packed up too! Couldn't lock the car with the key fob and the car wouldn't immobilise. BAD TIMES
![Frown](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/frown.gif)
Any ideas as to what's wrong are greatly appreciated!
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#8
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iTrader: (23)
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Carleen interesting scenario there, as said by DJ above it would be a help if someone could plug the test connectors together to retrieve some fault codes as i'm sure there will be a few.
I'm also assuming the battery is quite flat hence why its throwing the alarm out.
Keep us posted on here...
I'm also assuming the battery is quite flat hence why its throwing the alarm out.
Keep us posted on here...
#9
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Thanks guys! Yes the battery was quite flat so charged it up which sorted out the alarm problems!
Still not starting though, tried another Z4 ECU but made no difference at all!
Where exactly are the test connectors that need to be plugged together to retrieve the fault codes, and where would I get the fault readings from?
Baly - You mentioned the cam and crank sensors, would it be either of these sensors if there is a spark? It seems to be sparking, although the spark is very weak so my local garage didn't think it would be either of these sensors! Although not quite sure I believe them! Is there an easy way to check these sensors myself?
Still not starting though, tried another Z4 ECU but made no difference at all!
Where exactly are the test connectors that need to be plugged together to retrieve the fault codes, and where would I get the fault readings from?
Baly - You mentioned the cam and crank sensors, would it be either of these sensors if there is a spark? It seems to be sparking, although the spark is very weak so my local garage didn't think it would be either of these sensors! Although not quite sure I believe them! Is there an easy way to check these sensors myself?
#11
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