Hi All, Just picked up my first ever Scoobie. 2000 2ltr Turbo. Now when I apply the right foot a bit it seems flat at 4000rpm Any ideas.

 

I think you gonna need to geive a little more info on that fella...

 

Okay when I drive normally it seems fine but when I go to boot it it gets up to 4000rpm and then it feels like it's holding back, like something is blocking jets or something simular

 

Any CELs coming on? Does it jut die at 4000 rpm or just a bit flat?

 

Plugs? Coil? Leads? Could be one of these - start with the free jobs first like checking the gaps bud - could be a simple as that?

 

Had similar thing on my old classic, tried the usual suggestions, changed to up-rated fuel pump & plugs no difference, Changed MAF sensor slight improvement, but eventually tracked the problem down to a tired O2 sensor, changed that and it had a new lease of life !

 

Hi All

Yeah just a bit flat at 4000rpm, Gets up there all right then seems to run out of puff. Okay will check all that is suggested and see how we get on. Not to sure when it was last serviced so that might need doing too.

Thanks for all the tips well let you know how I get on

Cheers

 

Jesus !!! Okay cleaned out the solinoid as stated, Fitted a K&N induction kit and a Bailey Dump Valve

The thing is like a rocket now, no holding back just wants to go and go and go and go.

Boosting to 2 now. is this to much

 

Boosting to 2bar?
Exactly what model and year is it please and any other modifications on there?

Tony

 

2 what? Bar? Groats? 20psi?

Unfortunately your modifications have probably made the car worse rather than better. Had you posted here prior to buying them you'd probably have been advised to save your money. The dumpvalve will tend to muck about with the mixtures on lift-off and throttle reapplication, and the induction kit will likely be mucking about with the mixtures on an open throttle. Neither does the engine any favours - and lean running caused by MAF measurement error can lead to serious engine damage if you're unlucky.

If I were in your shoes I'd take the induction kit, at very least, off, unless you are going to have the car mapped (or the AFRs checked) tomorrow. Otherwise you run the risk of starting a "Where do I go to fix my Scoobie's blown engine" thread in the not too distant future.

It will run fine on the standard induction tract and there's no advantage in replacing it unless you are running considerably upgraded turbo and power output. As to the boost level, the correct amount on your car is around 0.9 bar (13psi) on a standard ECU or around 1.1 bar (16psi) on a PPP one. Anything more than that is either overboost or, given that you've just bought the car, a sign that a previous owner has had it tinkered with in some way.

Sounds like it's worth getting it looked at by someone who knows so you can find out exactly what you've got, and be sure that it's running properly, and within a safe performance envelope.

 

Hi Well the induction kit is just simply a replacement for the poor kit already on the vehicle, The old kit's filter wobbled around in it's fitting so I have simply replaced it with a better version.

2 bar is probably wrong, The boost gauge is in psi and boosts to what is stated on the dial 2 so I guess that is 20psi when I really boot it, this has only started since I cleaned the solenoid. I have a new solenoid to go on it which might calm it down a bit. According to advice from Scooby garage should help the car not worsen it. now I am confused .com

 

It's a 2000 Uk spec

 

That was a bit premature. If the car is running a standard ECU, the best replacement for the induction kit is a standard resonator, airbox and panel filter. If you've unknowingly bought a car with a custom map on it, chances are you've knocked the MAF scaling out by fitting the second cone - and on an ECU with less safety margin than standard. You need to know what the score is there or you'll end up unwittingly causing avoidable problems.

As above you should get this car either to a mapper or a good Subaru specialist and have it looked over to find out what it should be doing. If the car's standard then 20psi (if that's what it is) is way too much boost. However, given that you've just bought the car, it's possible it has either a custom remap or some sort of third party boost controller hidden under the carpet. And speaking of which, it's worth you pulling the passenger carpet up and checking whether your car has a standard (green label) ECU or a PPP one.

If it does have a custom map on it it might have been mapped properly for the previous induction kit. Or it could be that the previous owner was a fan of random bolt-on bits and didn't have a clue what he was doing. We have no way of knowing and at the moment, neither do you.

So does the boost pressure hit 2/20(etc) and stay there, or does it peak at that level and then drop back a bit - or does it oscillate up and down?

If you're confused, we're confuseder as we can't even see your car. Best way to eliminate the confusion is to have someone good look the car over for you.

 

Okay I'll lift the carpet and check, problem is here on the Isle of Man we only have the Main Dealer who is clueless.

It only peaks at 2 then as I ease off the gas it comes back down. The turbo seems to kick in a lot more now than it did prior to the changes

 

Ferry across to the mainland for an appointment with someone non-clueless?

So what happens if you don't ease off the gas? Does it stay at "2" or drop back by itself? Again you need to find out whether this is overboost (and therefore in need of fixing) or the car responding legitimately to a non-standard ECU.

Yeah, the problem is that it doesn't sound like you know what's causing that. if your new induction kit is causing an under-read, the car will feel more powerful because it is running leaner. Until it breaks.

In addition, you say the old induction kit was "wobbling". Is there an implication there that the new one is bolted solidly into the chassis? If so, that's a major problem - you need the MAF tube to be isolated via rubber bushes to prevent it suffering vibration damage, which again is a potential engine breaker.

Get it looked at, none of us can help you effectively until you know where it's at - there's too much of a risk of giving advice which may turn out to be wrong for your particular car.

 

Hi All, Thanks for all your help and surgestions, I took it for a run today to see exactly what it does, When I boot it upto say 6000rpm then the boost needle is at 16psi, change gear and it drops again until you peak again once in 5th then it settle to 12psi.

Can you point me in the direction of the ecu.

I took it to a guy today that rallys scoobys and he seems to think it runs sweet and okay but that was just a quick look over and a ride out.

Re the wobbly bit the old filter wobbled in it's own mounting, therefore there was no seal being made, the new one simply replaces an ill fitting one. All the rubber parts are still in place.