WRX bottom end failure
#1
WRX bottom end failure
Hi all, I have owned a blob WRX for a year. The bottom end has just failed at 60K. I'm looking for advice on what route to go down. Do i get my engine rebuilt standard, 2.1, 2.5, exchange lump etc. I am not looking to go over 300bhp in the future as i'm worried the gearbox will be breaking up on me next. Any advice would be much appreciated!
#2
I've just blown a head gasket on my high mileage Bugeye WRX. I've elected to go for a 2.1 Stroker from "Engine Tuner" (Alan Jeffreys). Cars down in Plymouth now. Also going for an ST36 Turbo, Pinks, and Decat. Martyn recons between 300 and 350 which is plenty in my book.
#4
It started making a knocking noise on Saturday. Had two people look at it and they both said it's the big end gone. Until it's opened up i don't know the extent of the damage. Never had to get an engine rebuilt/replaced before so don't know where to begin. If i get it rebuilt are there better parts to use to prevent it happening again? Is the stroker any tougher/weaker?
#5
The "2.1 Stroker" unit is pretty much bomb proof. Engine Tuner's Demo car is pulling in excess of 500 BHP. It's based around 2.5 crank, forged pistons Cosworth Gaskets, New oil pump etc Ring Alan he will will tell you everything (01752-345880) without commitment. Definately worth a chat.
Using your standard Turbo 300 should be easily obtainable with plenty of Torque.
Using your standard Turbo 300 should be easily obtainable with plenty of Torque.
#6
to be honest if you go the rebuild option, you are better of uprating the parts that will enable you to run safely well over 300bhp. It doesnt mean you have to, however better quality components will be less stressed than standard
#7
The "2.1 Stroker" unit is pretty much bomb proof. Engine Tuner's Demo car is pulling in excess of 500 BHP. It's based around 2.5 crank, forged pistons Cosworth Gaskets, New oil pump etc Ring Alan he will will tell you everything (01752-345880) without commitment. Definately worth a chat.
Using your standard Turbo 300 should be easily obtainable with plenty of Torque.
Using your standard Turbo 300 should be easily obtainable with plenty of Torque.
Dan , perhaps the quickest/cheapest solution is handing the car over to the likes of APi to put in a refurbd std bottom end or rebuild the current one if it is salvageable or quick to repair.
The cause of the failure needs identifying to avoid again.
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#8
Can't help feeling that at 60K it's knackered very early, especially as it's standard. A little overkill would be buying me peace of mind that i'll not have to do it again. I'm planning on keeping the car for a few more years. I'm a little concerned that if there are metal filings in the oil, it'll not be doing the turbo a lot of good so that may need replacing in the not too distant future. Have i just got to choose someone to do the work and make a decision once the engine has been stripped?
#10
Can't help feeling that at 60K it's knackered very early, especially as it's standard. A little overkill would be buying me peace of mind that i'll not have to do it again. I'm planning on keeping the car for a few more years. I'm a little concerned that if there are metal filings in the oil, it'll not be doing the turbo a lot of good so that may need replacing in the not too distant future. Have i just got to choose someone to do the work and make a decision once the engine has been stripped?
#11
Dan, if your sticking to 300hp a good build with Mahle pistons, latest STI rods & new crank, 10mm oil pump, Cosworth h/gaskets would be ideal.
I think it was you that spoke to me on Monday, Paul @ Finch Motorsport.
I think it was you that spoke to me on Monday, Paul @ Finch Motorsport.
#12
Scooby Regular
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From: 1600cc's of twin scroll fun :)
As above, even at 300bhp you could either stick with the standard pistons/rods which are ok at that level of tune but your better off upgrading if the engine is out anyway, and go for the twin scroll crank, better oil feed to the main bearings.
Tony
Tony
#14
Can't help feeling that at 60K it's knackered very early, especially as it's standard. A little overkill would be buying me peace of mind that i'll not have to do it again. I'm planning on keeping the car for a few more years. I'm a little concerned that if there are metal filings in the oil, it'll not be doing the turbo a lot of good so that may need replacing in the not too distant future. Have i just got to choose someone to do the work and make a decision once the engine has been stripped?
#15
It wasn't me Paul.
The oil was due to be changed again this week and had been done every 5K previously, fully synthetic. Anyone got any recommendations of someone to do the work in the Essex area? Going to go for either rebuild into 2.1 stroker or improved parts (twin scroll crank?, forged pistons, etc). I'll get the clutch done while it's out and the up pipe changed, is there anything else that makes sense to do while the lump is out?
The oil was due to be changed again this week and had been done every 5K previously, fully synthetic. Anyone got any recommendations of someone to do the work in the Essex area? Going to go for either rebuild into 2.1 stroker or improved parts (twin scroll crank?, forged pistons, etc). I'll get the clutch done while it's out and the up pipe changed, is there anything else that makes sense to do while the lump is out?
#17
API recommended
My bottom end went at 36k for no apparent reason and on a full Subaru service history.
There are very lengthy threads on here regarding it (See 'oil change' and 'serious knocking noises') and I never got a definite reason why it went.
My engine was rebuilt by API and I can fully recommend their work.
I have no connection other than as a satisfied customer.
There are very lengthy threads on here regarding it (See 'oil change' and 'serious knocking noises') and I never got a definite reason why it went.
My engine was rebuilt by API and I can fully recommend their work.
I have no connection other than as a satisfied customer.
#18
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