carl heath

can anyone tell me how many tensioners there are when changing the belt,im going to get belt done in a month or so but have heard that the bearings/tensioners may need to be replaced while there but dont know how many i need to price up.is it worth doing water pump while its all off too ?

i got rough quote from subaru for belt and bearings for 300 notes is that about right ? and finaly what would labour be to fit it all please,many thanks carl.

JDM_Stig

iTrader: (3)

http://www.japanesemotorspares.co.uk...a-2001-to-2007

carl heath

many thanks jdm stig - looks like a very good deal with vat and delivery included.is it wise to have it all fitted ? the parts guy(at subaru) said only need bearings if leaking but while in there its only another 100 or so pounds to buy,
whats average labour to fit all ?(sorry about all questions )wasnt any service techs there at subaru.probably not get them to fit it anyhow but a rough quote will give me an idea,thanks again.

-Joe-

iTrader: (1)

wish i could see something like that for mine doing my cambelt soon

Splitpin

Up to you whether you want to buy the extra bits prior to doing the belt Carl. If you were doing it yourself and could afford to possibly have the car off the road for a couple of days while you order stuff in, I would suggest not to bother until you've had a chance to take the current ones off and check them. If you're getting a garage to do it, the consideration is a little different as it'll obviously cost you extra in labour/workshop charges if you get them to start the job and then they have to order stuff in.

Chances are the parts guy is right and majority of the idlers will be fine and dandy to go back on and that the belt tensioner will also be fine provided it is reset properly. That bit in bold is worth repeating, especially if you ask a garage to re-use bits where it can be done.

However, "leaks" aren't the only thing you need to check for. Worn/rough idler bearings will need replacing. The idler that is normally the first to wear is the little one - and under those circumstances the newer MY03 type sold in the kit JDM Stig has linked to is much better than the older sort. Also note that, despite what the link suggests, you can use the newer type of little tensioner on a pre-MY03 car - you just need to get a slightly longer bolt to fit it.

I wouldn't electively change the water pump. Provided the engine has been run on proper coolant changed at regular intervals, if the pump isn't leaking, there's no reason to believe it won't be in good condition. If in doubt you can check by sticking an inspection mirror into the thermostat aperture.

carl heath

thanks splitpin(again)i will have a chat with the garrage as regards to bearings as i can live without car for couple of days and he will lend me his wrx anyway(win,win i think,lol)cant get in touch till monday so thanks again,
ps,never ever had any probs with water/coolant,or temp so will leave water pump alone.