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Remapping MY95

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Old 06 August 2010 | 11:01 PM
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Default Remapping MY95

Hi,

I'm going to have my MY95 scoob remapped with a daughter board. The car has an induction kit and a de-catted zorst. What should I expect in terms of power output? I was thinking of fitting 440cc injectors and an STI TMIC first - would this be wise?

Thanks
Mick
Old 06 August 2010 | 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by imprezered
Hi,

I'm going to have my MY95 scoob remapped with a daughter board. The car has an induction kit and a de-catted zorst. What should I expect in terms of power output? I was thinking of fitting 440cc injectors and an STI TMIC first - would this be wise?

Thanks
Mick
Best to get the mods done at the same time as the Daughter board.
Old 07 August 2010 | 01:10 AM
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Forget the TMIC. With a V1 or V2 you're better off going FMIC. For the hassle it's going to be to put a newage TMIC on your P&J you're better off doing a proper job with the FMIC and that gives you a bit more scope for some more power later on if your internals and gearbox hold out after the first upgrade.

A set of 440's will give you 300-320bhp but just remember to get an uprated fuel pump to make sure you can feed those injectors as much reliable fuel supply as they need, and fit the injectors last of all just before you get the ECU mapped. It will run on 440's but pretty rich so the less you drive it after the mods the better until it's remapped.

I recommend you replace your MAP sensor (1.2bar) with one from a V3 or V4 Classic (1.7bar) because i've no doubt the mapper will be wanting 1.2bar or thereabouts from your turbo as the std sensor probably won't cope and you'll get regular boost cut.

What you want from the car is down to you and what you get is down to your mapper. Just make sure you both agree on what is safely acheiveable based on your mods. Personally speaking with standard internals and a chocolate gearbox you're better off with a nice torquey tune that will give you decent low down grunt. That way you'll be running around on a lighter throttle and making fewer gearchanges. That makes for a quick car too and it will be nicer to drive about town in traffic.

Don't get hung up on engine BHP numbers. What the car drives like and how much power it''s putting down on the road is all that matters.
Old 07 August 2010 | 05:37 PM
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Default stalling help

any help appreciated.

car has been fine since i bought it a year ago, and i've looked after it. car has z4, 3" from turbo back, hks dumpvalve, walbro pump thats about it

4 weeks ago i put decat up pipe and air filter with resonator delete pipe, car still ran great....

2 weeks ago i put white dials in and the fuel niddle has give up working,

few days ago it konked out and started a couple times, but just kept dying, so i walked to the garage and added fuel and it went, drove home fine, left sat for approx 5 days, used today and it konked out again, cant be fuel as i put £30 in and only done 35 miles, but put a tenner in incase but it's still stalling, it will go a bit and try stalling, if i stick my foot down i can just keep it running and it will sit still running, but i cant boost it

please help, is there anyone in surrey that can fix it, i'm not mechanical minded lol
Old 07 August 2010 | 06:01 PM
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Chris
It looks like you might well have a dodgy MAF, but it could also be plugs, failing coil-pack(s) or some other electrical issue.

One way or another though, you'll probably get far more suggestions if you start your own thread.
Old 12 August 2010 | 08:03 AM
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appologies, was meant to click new thread. thanks
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