Hi all,

Right then, getting close to my Blobeye's first timing change (it's currently on crica 43k).

I have a concern or 2.

Now I used to own a UK '96 GC8 turbo. Myself and a friend who was actually a fully qualified fleet mechanic changed the belt on that (I think it would have been it's second belt, by rights but I forget now). The tensioner system etc was a little different and simpler on the classics and you didn't necessarily need to replace it's tensioner as there was a very simple way of testing it. These old tensioners were basically a little cylinder/piston and if its rod was easy to push in then it needs changing, if not then its fine. Don't ask about the comical method we used to reset the bugger (push the rod back in) - it took some doing!

So from what I've read so far on the change on a newage the timing marks on the belt and so on all the look the same, it's these additional idlers and pulleys and the different design of tensioner I'm not too sure of. Is it 100% necessary to replace these too/is there a way of testing them?

 

Right, sorry guys, I've answered my own question.
Just rang and spoke to the dealership in Richmond.

Basically from a visual inspection only, if the tensioner isn't seen to be leaking they don't replace it. And generally they don't bother with the idler pullies either. So if all's good they literally just change the belt.

 

Be careful about compressing the piston on the tensioner, if you do it too quick you'll damage the piston. The manual says to compress it over a 3 min period.

 

This is what they did on my 54 sti too.
Unfortunately the tensioner did need replacing - but that was just bad luck for me.

 

if its the second belt then id do a modified oil pump aswell mate, and cheack cam seals and front seals etc.

 

No eggy, it's only a '54 plate as stated. It's only currently on 43k and only had on 29k when I bought it 12 months ago - it's the car's first belt. Thanks for that though.

Sorry to hear about that Pilgrimage as they quoted me circa £180 for the tensioner alone. Trouble is that the car will be half dismantled before I even get a look at the tensioner to see if it does need changing! Might have to consider buying one in just on the off chance.

Redwards, yep totally aware of that buddy. And it's not necessarily the piston itself you risk damaging but rather the oil seal inside the cylinder itself and they're a sealed unit so there's no real way of repairing them. Easier said than done though as I don't have the use of my handy large bench-mounted vice anymore.
You should have seen the battle we had trying to re-set the tensioner on my old classic. We tried all sorts! In the end (and I'm by no means suggesting this is a good idea but at this point it was give it a whirl/possibly get a new one!) we placed it between a trolly jack and a bracket that we assumed was the remainder of a towbar that was still attached to the rear underside of the car and jacked the car up. The rear wheels were roughly 2 inches off the ground before the b*gger even STARTED to compress!