before i start sorry if what i post has already been put up before!
i have just brought a 99 wrx 2.0L turbo wagon and have not really got a clue whats it has had done to it to be honest im new to the subaru world, i know it has a different exhaust from the cat back and has a forge dump valve fitted to it, and from what i can tell a makeshift boost control valve! it could be brought but im unsure looks a bit agricultural to Me!
any way i have a small problem when boosting in higher gears the car seems to hesitate? i have checked the normal things like maf, plugs etc etc, but i have a feeling that the boost may up too high? ive read somewhere that if its too high and there is no fuel regulator fitted it can do this, am i right? there is no boost gauge fitted but i intend to fit one asap so i can see what it is set at and possibly turn it down if its up too high.
we managed to get a mates boost control valve and swap it over, we also managed to use his boost gauge on it and see that on his valve we got a reading but with my makeshift control valve im getting no reading at all? the inlet and outlet pipes on my valve are bigger than his ones will this matter?
i would really appreciate any comments, i have never owned a petrol turbo car before and im a little in the dark with it all, thanks in advance and sorry if i have been stupid/ignorant in my post
regards
Jay

 

Does it still have the restrictor pill in the hose from the turbo compressor nipple to the boost control solinoid, it should look like a little brass thingy with a hole in it. I would check and see if its still there.

 

The brass restrictor is irrelivent due to the MBC manual boost controller.

There are so many things you/we need to know before anything can be done.
Which BCS (boost control solenoid) do you have fitted, 2 or 3 port?

Located on the drivers side suspension turet.

What turbo is fitted, TD04, TD05 or other??

Will be stamped at the base of the turbo.

Which ECU do you have??

Located in the passenger footwell under the carpet then under the kick plate.

The list goes on.

Use the search facility on here and read (a lot). It is a very steep learning curve, even for a mech minded person with no Scooby experience. You will get plenty of help on here but people are not psychic, and will expect you to do your homework.

Below are pics of the 2 different BCS's, which do you have on the turret?

 

ok sorry for taking ages to get back to you, it looks like i have the second picture that you have circled. from what i can see the person has left line 4 connected to this valve then they have put a end cap on line 3, there is no t fitting between line 2 and 1 instead i have the manual valve as per the picture above. there is also no restrictor pill in here! please help lol i hope i have not brought something that is going to go pop in a few days!im trying to also identify which turbo i have and the only writing i can see on the castins is 10 8A 606 does this mean anything to anyone?

 

Ok, ideally you need to get some good quality 4mm i/d silicone hose, a T-piece and the restrictor pill. I think perhaps a phone call or visit to your local main stealer as this is the best place for the restrictor pill and you might aswell get the OE hose from them too, can't see it costing the earth. Then put the boost plumbing back to factory (as per the pic) and get rid of that MBC, then fit a boost gauge, i can't stress how importent and useful a boost gauge is. I wouldn't go giving it big licks until this is done as it may go bang due to the fact you have no idea what is occuring with the boost.
The number you've posted means nothing to me, may be someone else will know???

 

thankyou very much for your help b13bat, i will endevour to find out more about the turbo and repost, if anyone else can understand y someone would pipe the boost valve this way please do explain.
regards

 

Are you also running your car on v power fuel? running the incorrect type (your car is mapped for 100 ron minimum) will cause you issues, normally ending up terminal for the engine
I would take your car to a speciallist and get them to look over it, then if it gets a clean bill of health, book it in for a remap for lower octane fuel to ensure it wont blow up on you leaving you with a 3k rebuild bill.

Tony

 

Thats an easy one. By fitting the MBC you are able to up the boost to just under the safe boost limit. However, just because it is under the safe boost limit does not mean it is at a safe fuelling level. Unsafe fuelling levels (air/fuel ratio) is the biggest cause of det, and det is the biggest killer of engines.

If your engine is detting due to incorrect boost/fuelling/fuel, your ECU will pull the timing and reduce power in an attempt to save the engine. However, the ECU can only pull the timing so many degrees, after that it's

Tonys advise to get the car checked properly is good advise.