Even when its NOT plugged in.

Basically I think I have a boost leak, quite a large one tbh.
And when I run off boost, (moving car from the road to my drive) I get to 2500rpm and she misses and the COF light comes on as its banging, and I`m only moving at 2-3mph if that, just revving to reverse up my steep drive.

I have had NO EML lights, and this is getting annoying now as I`ve had say 30-40mins on normal driving in the time I`ve had her. As shes either off boost, or sitting outside my house as I can`t drive her (unless a short spin to stop it from getting dry) as I don`t wanna kill her. She`s idle so much that I can only start her after priming the oil by starting with the cam sensor unplugged.

She will also get to 4k-4.5k and bang and splutter, and I¬ll go through the windsreen, again my friend the COF light comes on, no EML codes or light. But think this is due to a boost leak, that I was gonna look for when doing the box (as its gotta all come off).

Its gonna get to the stage of having the tax removed and sitting at the top of my drive till I can sort it.

I`ve a new box to fit too, and if there was a garage near me good on Subarus (other than Mr Coe) I`d take it to them and let them find the issue, as I`ve no idea.

When out of gear and revving she will rev easily and no pops, nothing sounds sweet as. But now occasionally the COF light flashes and she misses and clears and so repeats.

Any ideas??

 

Bump.

 

You need to tell us your MY, your mods and any other relivent information.

You are not getting any replys because nobody knows what you are talking about. Also being more concise will help your cause.

 

Well if you have boost leak the car will run rich.

A cat on fire condition is usually when unburnt fuel enters the exhaust (such as running to rich or poor ignition). This will be burnt off by the cats...which makes them excessively hot (and risk melting/shattering them from backfiring). The COF sensor is basically a temperature sensor; unplugging it will also cause the light to come on as it makes it open circuit (needs to be bridged with a resistor IIRC - but thats only needed with decats pipes without a fitting for a sensor).

Sort the cause of the unbrunt fuel in the exhaust (mixture, boost leak, ignition issues etc) first and then take it from there. Its also possible that if the car is allowed to run in such a state for too long, it'll wet and foul the spark plugs, making the problem worse as it'll carry on playing silly beggers after you've think you've found the problem..

 

Aye that would help lol.

No cat, and no COF sensor. So really don`t know why the light comes on as the sensor is in the boot lol.

Car is a 1995 WRX Import, Z4 ECU, Fully forged, TD05, running standard TMIC, Standard boost, all standard boost control etc etc etc.

Will remove plugs and check gapping, and see whats what as a start.

 

Are you sure it's the COF sensor you have disconnected and not the lambda? Removing the lambda would also cause rich running/over-fuelling. My MY93 runs a decat and COF delete and i have never seen the COF light.

No trying to teach you to suck eggs but it is a easy mistake to make.

 

100% deffo, as I had to cut her from the Cat, and I also replaced the Lambda with a genuine Subaru lambda.

 

Have you totally removed the the COF cable from its plug under the bonnet? Just a thought as it may be shorting some where along the cable.

I am just geussing, as when i did mine i had no issues at all.

 

Totally removed and sealed up.

 

Might be worth trying a ECU reset, what do you think?

 

Yeah, but the COF issue has survived a reset, hence me being a bit annoyed lol.

 

Maybe the damp has got into the plug and shorting it causing the light.

 

Will see if its ok but I sealed it up when I removed it.

I recon someone who knows their stuff would sort this in a couple of hours tbh, as my knowledge is very small on these cars lol.

 

Well that's me out of ideas. Can't get my head around, if the sensor is disconnected how is the light showing. I know the new age require a resistor fitting to fool the ECU or it can be extinguished via a laptop. But afaik the classics don't require either.

OK, your other problem. Where do you suspect your boost leak is coming from, can you hear it?

 

Dump valve, I think.

I`ve been after a second hand recirc DV as I have a stupid Turbo Smart VTA, and I`d rather the burble over the dump tbh.
Its either that or the pipe into the intercooler, which I was gonna check both when changing the box.

 

.....i'll get me coat.......

 

Lol.

 

To rule out the DV you can safely delete it completly, if only for test purposes. To check the I/C inlet, obviously the I/C will need to come off. I replaced mine a couple of weeks ago for the Samco item here. Highly recommended if you need to replace.

 

The ecu will need to see a signal which is proportional to a no fault condition. If you just unplug the sensor the ECU thinks its faulty and will display a cel. I am assuming it works the same way the newage cars do. If you remove a newage COF sensor you need to put a 2.2K ohm resistor across the plug on the car side to full the ECU into thinking the sensor is ok and producing a valid signal.

 

Ok will try that, I have put the sensor back on (al be it, not in the exhaust) and still get the COF light flash.
It only does it when the car loses power in a bit way, when I could go through the windscreen.

I don`t know if that would fit tbh, as mine is the slanty type intercooler not the square.

 

No, the Classic does not work the same as the New Age, as i pointed this out in post #14.

I removed the COF on mine and have never seen the COF light in 3 years.

 

Yeah, it is the same as mine (slanty) so will/should fit. If you do need it, call Import Cars, they are very helpful and will make sure for you. It also comes with the I/C to T/B coupler, if yours is anything like mine was, it is well due.

 

Ok pardon me for trying to help, the floors all yours.

 

No need to be like that.

 

It`s deffo worth a shot as you know what these can be like.

 

Again, not an egg sucking lesson. But it is the COF light your seeing and not the CEL??

 

DEFFO as I`ve had both flash on me lol. But the COF ONLY comes on when I have severe engine cut,its not even boost cut as I`m not on boost. Its as if there is something else causing the problem, and its causing the COF light to flash for a split second.

 

One last one for tonight, have you done a diagnostic check with the 2 black connectors recently??

 

Not for a couple of weeks, mind you I`ve not driven it much.

But to answer a previous post I missed.

It boosts to just over 15psi, that if it can. Usually bangs and farts or you end up through the windscreen long before that.

Its quite concerning as its VERY harsh when it cuts, and I really don`t wanna do any damage.

 

Did you ever find the fault m8 I have same problems as your self with symptoms except I have no warning lights come car holds back and all of a sudden all power goes then comes back but its constant mine is decated dv which I want to get rid off and induction kit