running in
#1
running in
i got my car back and got to do 2000 miles and ive done 40 miles in a wk is there any other way i got told not to do motorway then the engine builder told me it be fine
#5
ive got told i did not need one as my ecu is set up for the fueling and 700cc injectors and i comfermd it with andy carr t realy thought i need one with the things i done to engine
#7
fully forged 2.2 by alan jeffrys twin scroll turbo set up wr1 box and diff oil catch tanks 700cc injectors full systam fmic will have earth kit and dccd cotroller and some other stuff cant remember lol
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#10
To be fair i wouldn't hesitate to take advice of Alan,and what you have been told about the oil change's is spot on although once you've done around the 500 mile mark you could start to rev it to around 4.5/5k rev's with no problems as by then the rings have started to bed in quite well.
#17
#19
If the bores were honed right with a nice cross hatch and the rings gapped correctly i would say keep it easy but flexible for 500 miles. flexible meaning try not to keep the engine rev at a constant rev.Stay well away from boost as your Turbo will suffer with the running in oil (mineral). After 500 miles i would put in semi or do your turbo a favor and put in fully synthetic. Avoid revving high when not under load.
#21
Running in oil, non synthetic. Drive gently and stay off boost and say 3,000 rpm for first 500 miles.
Let engine warm up gently and no heavy load. ie not straining up a hill in high gear at low rpm.
Avoid constant rpm.
Then go to 3,500 rpm and light boost but otherwise as above and after another 250 mls go to 4k rpm and so on adding a little boost each time.
At 1500 mls and using up to 4,500 rpm and odd forrays to 5 k rpm do an oil change to whatever oil is your choice, hopefully a quality fully synthetic, remap and then start adding RPM and boost, in steps to max boost. During mapping the car will have been run to close to max rpm and run at max boost but you can build up to that in bursts/stages.
Let engine warm up gently and no heavy load. ie not straining up a hill in high gear at low rpm.
Avoid constant rpm.
Then go to 3,500 rpm and light boost but otherwise as above and after another 250 mls go to 4k rpm and so on adding a little boost each time.
At 1500 mls and using up to 4,500 rpm and odd forrays to 5 k rpm do an oil change to whatever oil is your choice, hopefully a quality fully synthetic, remap and then start adding RPM and boost, in steps to max boost. During mapping the car will have been run to close to max rpm and run at max boost but you can build up to that in bursts/stages.
#22
You can't really run an engine in with fully synthetic oil's because of the polymers in the oil. These polymers are so goog in modern Fully synthetic oil at reducing friction the engine just would not bed in.
#25
#26
Maybe their tolerances are so good that bedding in is not really necessary so they feel they can use fully synthetic oils which contain polymers.
As a point of interest about fully synthetic oils. You can not use car fully in motorcycles. The reason being is they use a wet clutch (well most) and these polymers would stick to the clutch plates causing them to slip because of the lack of friction caused. Motorcycle fully is different from car fully.
Personally i would not feel comfortable with anything less than semi in my engine because of the turbo.
As a point of interest about fully synthetic oils. You can not use car fully in motorcycles. The reason being is they use a wet clutch (well most) and these polymers would stick to the clutch plates causing them to slip because of the lack of friction caused. Motorcycle fully is different from car fully.
Personally i would not feel comfortable with anything less than semi in my engine because of the turbo.